Dr_Ju_ju

Forget the Beeb, use https://www.metcheck.com I find the site much more accurate....

Bribery and\or Extortion, I find usually works best, when help is needed....

You could go for Olive, but then do as your son suggested, & grow plants around the obsy to provide shade ??

Just remember, the darker the colour you apply, the greater the potential to get hotter under the sun, lengthening cooldown times etc., as well as the deleterious effects on the paintwork itself, reducing its 'lifespan' and could cause warping of the timbers.... But then again this is the UK....

And what does the BOSS say ??

well at least it will have more protection.....

I only use 1.75

It was direct drive, & trying to print Rigid Ink's PetG & ASA with a 2~3 mm retraction, it would also happen when moving between multiple parts on the bed.... Other than the Aero, everything was working great, its just that I had to re-set & clean a few times, which is very annoying, & wasteful of time & failed prints. If I was 'lucky' & it seized early in the print run, I wasn't wasting too much filament, otherwise it starts to get expensive....

Depends on how brave\determined you are. If it can already be adjusted, then it should be possible to modify it, by upping the value of some(?) resistors, thereby lowering the voltage\current fed to the LED, creating the desired effect. But you'd have to dismantle the device to get at the electronics....

Good luck with the Aero, I had one of the bad batch, where the bearing would seize (rectified by E3D). But I also found I could easily clog the filament path, as the cooler is so efficient that even moderate retractions had the potential for congealing forming a clog (even after tuning the fan). In the end I reverted back to a Titan with no issues...

.. hopefully, you won't have to spend the additional $500 plus time\designs etc. to get something that provides acceptable prints.....

In answer to Alan, that's why I recommend the Prusa for you, in the end, it just works... And Gina, we are engineers who love to tinkle, and the costs are spread over a long time, so in the end we spend loads....

Your catching on …..

Brutally honest, I'd recommend (and I'm biased) one of these (https://shop.prusa3d.com/en/3d-printers/59-original-prusa-i3-mk2-kit.html) (£600) They are not the latest model, and yes it's a kit of parts (even cheaper ones require assembly) but the instructions are superb with EVERY step documented with pictures & on-line videos, and in the end you will have a printer that can produce a wide range of objects & styles etc. to very high degree of quality (including perimeters for Chris). They also have an excellent support team, which can usually be reached through a browser during the day, and also provide a free, dedicated slicer program, based on Slic3R, as well as regular updates etc.

As already stated, out of the box, cheap printers usually require 'fine' tuning to get any sort of decent result, which is not what you want if your starting out.... Printer Ink (filament) comes in various grades for different applications ranging from PLA up to Flexibles and ranging in prices from £20 - £50 a reel. luckily most of the better slicer software is free e.g. Slic3R, Cura etc., but there are paid for versions like Simplify3D which is what I use for the D-Bot. As for CAD , I use TinkerCad, which is also free ...

1st question, what do you want to print with it ? then 2nd your budget ? The 1st answer will determine the size \ capabilities of the printer, the 2nd answer, will start to rule out some suggestions..... I have 4 printers, 2 bought & 2 self built, these being: Wanhao Duplicator i3 a small Mendel Prusa i3 Mk2s D-Bot. The best quality prints I get from the Prusa, but the larger pieces I do on the D-Bot For more general info of the history styles of printers go here : https://reprap.org/wiki/RepRap and there are a number of 'review' videos on YouTube, one to recommend is Tom Sanladerer (https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCb8Rde3uRL1ohROUVg46h1A).

Set yourself a target for completion, & tell SWMBO to kick you along.....

Download all files (it will come as a zip archive file). Then un-zip the file to your desktop, inside you will find the 2 stl files...

If you have any, try sitting it on a square of 18mm ply, failing that, a solid table, that doesn't rock, or even flat flooring with no carpet\underlay etc. If it's wobbling, then prints will be affected, you may not see it unless your doing taller prints, but artefacts will be there.

Mine doesn't, so … what extrusion are you using ? 2020 or 2040 ? are your belts too slack so they are flapping about ? have you adjusted the running rollers so that there's no play ? also have you fitted levelling feet to ensure that its down on the bench & solid ?

Remember, on a new clean install, the keyboard may well not be mapped correctly, they are usually set to US style, so some of the keys will be different....

get to learn to use & love diskpart.exe …..

James. I'm a 'supposed' Windows specialist on OS\SCCM\Exchange\SQL etc. but I try to use Linux where I can, as I find it more suited for process work, so doesn't have the added baggage, unlike Microsoft products... I've installed everything on a Rock64 with Ubuntu Mate 16.04 & that was a doddle, it even works ok on a bench, with all equipment attached. I'm currently trying to get everything working reliably on a RockPro64, with Ubuntu Mate 18.04. To say the install was a faff is an understatement, as the support is handled by one guy Ayufan, while he does a reasonable job, not all the hardware works reliably e.g. NVMe disks (they work ok on a minimal install, but on a GUI the system freezes on logon ??) and as there have been soo many internal changes to the way 18.04 behaves compared to earlier versions e.g. now uses netplan for network configuration. But I'm getting there....

I've done the same as Kev's above, but also used a smaller top 150mm duct, for the final 300mm'ish which gives a small shelf for various equipment and ensures that no mount\scope\camera etc. equipment will hit the pier...

No, I haven't bought one, (I have a Rock64 & RockPro64) but there are a lot more companies (usually Oriental) now starting to use the Rockchip processors, which are a lot more powerful than the Broadcom processors used on the Pi3's, and they have full gigabit ethernet & USB3 etc. Unfortunately these companies are usually let down by the shoddy support \ software they provide. I only wish the Pi3 designers really upped their game, and not provide halfway house systems....