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About jetstream

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  1. You always need a big fat low power eyepiece Paul!
  2. I think that some eyepieces because of their design are much more flexible as far as coating type and number goes- these being the true asymmetric plossl (Brandon), Abbe orthos and the various Monocentric designs, including TMB Supermono based on Hastings work. The type of glass used for each element appears to be very important as well as the polish and care in assembly. One thing that may appear to improve sharpness is the use of longer f ratio scopes or using a barlow to make the cone more eyepiece friendly. I'm thinking that maybe some should revisit these volcano top's with their new and improved scopes under the best seeing they can find and report back. I see a difference in "tone" between the Tak (Fuji) and the BCO/Tani's but they all offer similar sharpness (my 5mm Fuji is a step down a bit) to eachother. These volcano top Tani's are sharper on axis than my Delos/Ethos/Nagler zoom/ Nagler 16T5,TV plossls...
  3. From Brandon's website: "1.25 inch Brandon eyepieces are noted for their exceptional contrast and extremely dark background, two reasons why Questar Corporation has been including them with their telescopes since 1971. All Brandon eyepieces are parfocal. In a test of many eyepieces, noted deep-sky observer, Ron Morales, rated Brandon eyepieces #1 for contrast, which is the single most important characteristic for any eyepiece. Some question why we do not multi-coat our Brandon lenses. In the past, several sets of Brandons were made with 7-layer multi-coatings with no improvement. In fact, not using multi-coating eliminates or greatly reduces the phenomenon known as narrow angle light scatter. Multi-coatings have more narrow angle light scatter than standard eyepiece coatings. This effect readily can be seen when viewing bright objects like Venus, Mars, or Jupiter, where this scatter greatly interferes with low-contrast detail. Using Brandon eyepieces, you also will notice a significant difference in the background darkness immediately surrounding a bright object, especially important for planetary or double-star observing. In addition, lunar detail such as the bands of Aristarchus are much better defined. All Brandon eyepieces are assembled and tested in Raleigh, NC, to assure consistent high quality. Leave the world of ordinary eyepieces behind and step up to Brandons!"
  4. Great sketches N3! Can I talk you into sketching the Eskimo neb at HIGH mag? 2 shells will be evident and in the 15" fine radial filaments can be seen and also 2 shades of "green" will be apparent (200mm,250mm scopes too). Go up in mag until no more detail is seen. Find it then go straight to the 4.7mm ES 82... or a 7mm ortho Gemini has so many of my favorite objects- congrats for finding a dark site like this!
  5. Congrats Chris!! I spent a long time trying to see this one and know first hand the challenge it presents. Great observing!
  6. Is this set yours John? I need the 6mm and 7mm...
  7. The bottom three were me I also purchased another 9mm (for bino with the 120ED) and another 4mm (UO) and an 18mm UO, oh and of course the 12.5mm... So far I havn't seen the optics vary (all VG) showing consistency that seems hard to find these days. That 4mm (225x) was really working last night in the 120ED for a brief period- wind and cloud shut the show down. They exhibit scatter levels a bit lower than my KK Fujis, but once this low its splitting hairs anyway. Well until you use a Vixen HR2. I love volcano top eyepieces and respect Tani's work ethic and craftsmanship.
  8. Congrats for the Volcano!! Great observing Iain, this is a huge accomplishment.
  9. I thought those Taks go 100x aperture in inches
  10. Congrats!
  11. Very good advice Shane, cooling and collimation are hugely important. To the OP- we have a SW 130mm Heritage and surprisingly will take all my 3-6 Nagler zoom has to offer ie 3mm. Your scope should do 150x quite easily but as Shane says cool the scope and ensure collimation is on. I would suggest a simple Cheshire collimation tool from FLO. Get the cheaper one it is less "busy" visually IMHO. Once you get to know your scope (if you don't already) then start checking out the other eyepieces. The little Heritage gives some good views with the "poor" stock 10mm, the "Super 25" is actually a decent eyepiece. edit: for a good planetary eyepiece I like orthos, tight eyerelief and all. I use a 4mm no problem and a 5mm ortho just might be good for you if you don't wear glasses.
  12. Actually, Piero has a good point about the Vixen SLV's. In addition to the 24ES 82 I might go for a 10mm XW (galaxies) and squeeze in a 5mm or 7mm Vixen SLV for lunar planetary. If a narrow FOV galaxy hunter is OK get the 10mm SLV which allows 2 more SLV's, the 7mm and 5mm,many reputed members like the SLV.
  13. Just under 500 pounds (less if outside VAT zone) from FLO and they ship internationally now. If seeing is mediocre get the 7mm XW or if good the 5mm XW,IMHO.
  14. Thanks guys, Last night I split Sirius (for sure) with the 200mm and the HR2 2.4mm and also this little gem. It is also an excellent eyepiece and I think I might like them better than my KK Fuji's. I had some confusion with Sirius in the 15" but there was none with the 200mm- soon I will resolve this issue in the 15"- scale and opposite side focuser might be playing games with me one of my recent purchases- very low scatter here too. Please excuse the dust as the high res shows but I use my equipment a lot.
  15. Just a brief note as I'm out observing with some very good seeing. My SV90mm APO is giving great Jupiter views @ 262x ! which is about 74x aperture. The little 200mm f3.8 is also giving great center of field views @ 312x and 39x aperture- this is excellent for my scopes on Jupiter. Both scopes are giving great color and detail with the Vixen HR2 2.4mm, the little newt is very bright though. This eyepiece is superb in all aspects, very low scatter, extremely high contrast and detail and with nice eye relief for this type of eyepiece. I hope Vixen makes a few longer FL's.