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Piero

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Piero last won the day on June 6 2018

Piero had the most liked content!

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About Piero

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    White Dwarf

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    Cambridge
  1. That is a 30mm APM UFF (ultra flat field). It's slightly more than 70 deg (38mm field stop) and really well corrected till the edge. It weighs 556g and the eye cup is similar to the 20mm Lunt / APM 100 deg, but with a very comfortable eye relief of 22mm. The optical scheme is 9/5. It's a very nice eyepiece and a keeper in my opinion.
  2. I am not an expert of this, but I thought that that filter is the ITF not the blocking filter. I thought the blocking filter is the red one on the eyepiece side. Can someone give more detail, please?
  3. In the Baader wedge the SC is simply screwed before. Make sure the ND3 is in place as that is necessary. The less amount of reflections is due to to how these filters work. The SC passes a narrow band in the visible spectrum and so most of the light is sent back to the prism. The unfiltered light is them "dimmed" (filtered as Stu explained) by the ND3. This configuration should return the unwanted light to the prism earlier without passing through the ND3.
  4. In my Lunt 1.25" wedge, the ND3 is installed permanently, and so I cannot fix the SC filter between the prism and the ND. I believe this is the same for the 2" version. The Baader wedge allows one to swap them or even to change the ND3 for imaging (ONLY!) uses.
  5. Well, I got in touch with some very experienced solar observers some time ago. Some of them prefer a polarising filter to the solar continuum, a bit like John. It's really a personal thing. The position of the solar continuum filter also matters in my opinion. I prefer it before the ND3 filter as in the Baader Solar Herschel wedge (my favourite) as this reduces reflections. The downside is that it is more permanent, so not ideal if one wants to swap the solar continuum with a single polarising filter back and forth in a session.
  6. I guess it is personal. I tried both the polarising and the solar continuum, and I prefer the latter, particularly on granulation. The green sun does not bother me though.
  7. Didn't know you were into imaging. The SW 72mm looks great. I like it's specs. Looking forward to reading more about how you find it. Good luck with this project.
  8. Your telescope is slow (long focal ratio number), therefore it is rather 'gentle' with eyepieces. I think all the options you listed will be fine with that telescope. A 32mm will offer a larger exit pupil (brighter image).
  9. +1 for skywatcher 8" f6. Good scope. Even better if you get a second hand one. I can lift mine all together as the whole thing is about 20kg.
  10. Very nice, Jeremy! Out of curiosity, could you tell me what case you use, please? It seems very compact.
  11. If the seeing is stable I would go for more aperture, as long as this is still manageable of course. The planetary views I had with my 8" skywatcher Dobson in Italy were all substantially better than the views I had using my Tak 100 here in Cambridge, UK. Both under good seeing conditions. (Feel free to argue). Regarding smaller apertures working better than larger apertures when the planets are low, in my opinion this has nothing to do with the aperture, assuming the optics are properly cooled down. To me it has more to do with the way the optics are mounted. Heavier optics weigh more. If the mirror cell does not well support the mirror when this is inclined, you have a minor but noticeable miscollimation. I notice this on my 8" skywatcher dobson too, when pointing few degrees above the horizon. That is why Glatter's slings and similar exist.
  12. Out of curiosity, do you prefer night vision observing with the refractors or with the C11? More specifically, do you think a bit more focal length helps?
  13. ? superb session! That's a great set of images!
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