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alan potts

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alan potts last won the day on April 4 2016

alan potts had the most liked content!

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About alan potts

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  1. Still top draw even with a bit missing Steve. Alan
  2. That is one site I have viewed a few times, the guy doing them seems very professional, I will have to look at it again because I have forgotten what I did with this image, it is a problem with PS, if you aren't using it all the time it's easy to forget.
  3. Don't know about your first question and M45 but you should look at some tutorials on youtube, I have tried a few but they are not he sort of thing that I could remember to write down here. Orion will always burn out with a DSLR and maybe even a CCD but with longer exposures. I do a blend of images using masks of a say 5-8 second exposure and 45second exposures, I say this because I still have notgot guiding working. Again a tutorial is almost necessary when starting as it is fairly involved but there are some good ones on Youtube. I am hopeless and this was my only effort from last year following the times I state with a tutorial. Alan
  4. If it helps you use it it is a great idea. I have an even biiger and heavier one that I have just taken out of the observatory, now it's out I do wonder if I will ever use it again. I would like to de-fork it and use it but my worry is it will be too much for the mount. Could use another mount but these are not free with Cornflakes.
  5. I am not sure what the focal ration of the ED 80 is but I tried some Baader Hyperions in a an F 5.3 scope some years ago and was far from impressed, they were fine in an F 10 scope but speed for me me left them wanting. I feel you would do better with some of the Ex Sc or Meade SWA 68 degree eyepieces, they perform better than Hyperions in faster scopes without being as good as TeleVue. Alan
  6. That is really nice and taken with a camera i am hoping to get later in the year, that or maybe the ASI071 model. I can't recall ever seeing this done like this before and I think the result is great. For 30sec subs it is very good, i tend to stick around this time myself as I had a mass of problems guiding and in the end gave up for the time being. I have a new camera now and hope to have another try soon, albeit with the Canon 40D.
  7. Superb image, can't see this even from here.
  8. Personally i prefer the second one as I like the composition better leading to the red as oppossed to the red leadin. Either way both are excellent CP, like all your work. It blows my half baked effort of this target completely out of the water, though I hope to be getting up there with you before long. My problem is I can't be out in sub zero any longer so even when I get a camera (maybe a high end ZWO) I have to limit it to warmer nights but we do tend to get more clear skys than UK
  9. Everything that has ever gone wrong with my two mounts has been because of power, I no longer use a powertank only mains units, never had an issue since.
  10. Like Paul I don't believe I have ever seen this one done before, a very fine capture you have made of it too. Alan
  11. Thanks Olly, I feel on reflection the colour is somewhat over done in the first image and the second one I only posted to get over the fact I was pleased the secondry on the M/N 190 seems OK, open scope surgery seems to have been averted. I like the way you always try to help out with people when you are so good yourself. The link is not the one I used but I used a video by someone and find writing things down a help, which I did, I made an attempt on this trick which I posted here. I can only hope my work goes to the next level when i finally master (after countless setbacks none of which were my fault) to guide. I fully intend to get another camera later this year, maybe the Zwo ASI 294 or 071. Oh BTW one set back on guiding was because I hadn't removed the lens cover of the finder. This is 50x 60secs unguided and 10x 4seconds not brilliant but a start. I moved things back to the observatory yesterday so I must work from here, it makes sense after all, the LX 200 12 inch will have to move elsewhere. I am considering a bigger mount, maybe an EQ 8, so I can mount that and have a play, though I know from you taming around 2000mm even with the reducer is no easy task and 3048mm must take a back burner. Thank for the link, Alan.
  12. I didn'tmake any real effort with the second image Martin, I was just please that it appears that the blur that I referred to doesn't appear to be secondary mirror issues. The first image was about the 4th I ever took, with is being on a 70mm and Canon combo it's fairly well cropped to get rid of the edge of field as I don't have a flattener for it yet.. Alan
  13. I know Peter but I had so many set back trying this, I am sure I can nail it but anyone would be bald after the things that happened, including wasting a hell of a lot of time with a faulty new camera. Alan
  14. Not been able to do a great deal over the winter for health reasons and the fact the weather was very poor by normal standards. I am still wrestling with imaging in the observatory as the best place and then what do I do with the Meade 12 inch SC that sits there. I am also considering a bigger mount so I can use all scopes there, apart from the Dob that is. So I had a bash a couple of nights ago and heavens, I couldn't remember what went where or what to do, I endded up using my Canon 7D 2 on a reduced file size, that was an accident but it is still masses of pixels. I was really shocked at what a difference the removed filter makes though I know things are rarely done the same twice in Photoshop. I know the image is poor of M42 and the subs were only 40 x 30 seconds unguided (still have to try this with the new camera) but I thought I would post these up just so beginners like me can see the difference. This ia crop of the nebula through an ED 70mm F6 which was at 60 x 30secs with a Canon 40D modded, I know the centre has burnt out but I didn't know how to blend images back then (forgotten now) The same, of course with a normal camera at 40 x 30 sec F5.3 on a M/N 190mm unguided to. The pleasing thing for me in this shot was before the image showed blur one side, I thought this may be secondary alignment but it would appear it was 2 missing grub screws from the T2/canon camera connector, how do 2 grub screws clear off? It is rushed in PS and I know its not as good as it could be, but there is something about it I rather like. Feel free to offer advice I am still learning and need to get back on my bike, I want to get a cooled camera soon and of course learn to guide, who knows I may even get to understand plate solving after I have just banged my head. Alan
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