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About PeterW

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  1. Yep, be there sat with a few others. The old friends keep getting older! Peter
  2. Depending on the scope focal ratio and the prism size you could be losing a lot of light in the system. I looked at binoviewers and the limited prism size restricted me to (something like) 24mm diameter field stop eyepieces. Peter
  3. Or make your own one of these.. https://www.amazon.com/Forum-Novelties-52943-Double-Binocular/dp/B0021X2WQY Peter
  4. There are measurements/predictions of total moisture content, aerosol content, wonder which would be more use for us? Peter
  5. Which areas round Norwich are the best.. seems like I might need to take a holiday round there... but closer than Scotland! Peter
  6. One of those “special nights” which give up their secrets! Having a 20” about always helps too! Sky “background texture”... I fear one for those super special nights from super good sites... which bits of texture would you suggest and with what field of view? PEter
  7. I got my observing good from Russia! I use a large forward facing bumbag for holding stuff, but a coat with insulated deep pockets would be better. I have a box of long life glow in the dark plastic “fish pond rocks”, they are good for marking stuff. I also made some custom clip on dim rid cr2032 powered leds that I pop in sealable plastic bags and use to mark stuff too. PEter
  8. I got a purpose made good which works well, but suffers from gravity when I look at the zenith through binoculars... good flocking and stray light shields can also help stop stray photons going where they shouldn’t.... unlikely unneccessary in the caingorms! Peter
  9. Sharp almost to the edge and nicely wide. The individual focus take a bit to get use to, but once focussed to infinity you don’t need to fiddle with them. I don’t have any standard 10x50 to compare them too, but away from the edges of my parents old 10x50 everything goes fuzzy, so these are a step up. They are very nice in the day, though the close focus is a bit further than my other birding bins. They’re r clones to be close or equal to the Fujinon fmt which are established as the best 10x50’out there. The APM also come with the most robust tripod mount I think it is possible to make! I’m happy with them. Peter
  10. Latest addition have been some APM 10x50Ead, very sharp and crisp, need to give them better slies some time. Mounted on a monopod and using a recliner helps steady the view. I al about or give an old pair of 7x35 to a relations son as he lives under dark skies and is interested in what’s up there. So one in, one out Peter
  11. The maximum field stop the 1.25” binoviewers is not very generous. I was looking at larger binocular options and went with a conventional type over a split system. Even with all that loss it’s interesting to hear you still had a good view. Binocular viewing has a noticable benefit over mono. https://www.bbastrodesigns.com/30/30 inch binoscope.html It’s just hard to obtain, though interesting to see that this might be about to change (if you have a 3D printer). https://analogsky.co peter
  12. for a really rich view you want to use f3 and 7mm exit pupil and dark skies, mel bartels has seen a lot more besides, all sorts of galactic integrated flux nebulae, which don’t seem to get mentioned much. F5 would seem a little slow for this. Peter
  13. With my skies??!! I have seen the merope nebula through a friends refractor in an especially breezy dark location. Most of my dark sky trips have been NV, though I still like the widefield tiny stars of a raw glass view. Peter
  14. Interesting view with such a mini-dob, what are the best eyepieces for this sort of 130mm (heritage or PDS) scope? PEter
  15. NV gives you an instant “eyepiece view”, but prefers fast f-ratio for nebulous objects (the 55mm plossl afocal method is popular to achieve this). AlanJGreen uses one on his huge dob. Video/stacked short CCD needs tracking and some other hardware and then waiting for the result. All options give a different result, depends what you want to observe. PEterW
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