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Marvin Jenkins

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About Marvin Jenkins

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    Proto Star

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    Astronomy, visual and a little DSO. Learning all the time.
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  1. Everyone in this community is far too honest for that kind of nonsense.
  2. I was thinking along your lines at the beginning when I thought they might be NI/FE meteorites which would be magnetic. Because they are not magnetic I think I am right in saying they cannot be Slag, Heamatite or Ferrusmanganese. My find is a curious one. They all come from one deposit of 20/30 drainage pebble from a gravel pit local to me in France. I ordered several tons too many when installing a septic tank six years ago and the remaining 1 to 2 tons has sat at my place since then. I noticed a few in the pile and gave a handful (in the picture) To a friend who googled them and said dead ringer for Ataxites. After that I sifted the whole pile and have my own collection. They appear to be water worn which concurs with being in a buried bed of beach pebble extracted for aggregate purposes. Is it possible that a large Ataxite has been broken up and polished by wave and pebble action then buried, only to be extracted as drainage pebble? I have been a landscape gardener here for twenty years and this concentration of these objects are a first for me. I have never seen any others in the hundreds of tons of granular objects I work and build with, all of which come from the same gravel pit. I also read that Ataxites are extremely high in nickel with grains of silica distributed within them. My friend with the handful of samples has looked at their structure with a micro scope and there appears to be a metal base structure with different colours of tiny crystal grains throughout the body! No veins of crystals just individual specks from one mm and smaller. I will look at your link and thank you very much for getting in contact. Marvin
  3. Right on, couldn’t agree more.
  4. Hello everyone I need some help identifying what I think maybe a meteorite find. The details of the find is too complex to detail here and may waist too much time if it turns out to be a meteor wrong. The first picture is a handful of the finds. My description is as follows- Brown to black water polished pebbles. Heavy for there size. Blobby and fluid in there appearence. Despite looking metallic they are not magnetic. Now, I have more than the handful, so I selected a small unremarkable sample and ground off a corner using a high speed grinding wheel. It ground just like I was shortening a steel bolt but with no sparks. Within 60 seconds I had to drop it as it was incredibly hot. Upon inspection the ground area looked like metal. Closer inspection with magnifying glass showed what looked like a random metallic structure full of white to brown crystals distributed evenly throughout the ground area. I dropped it in 23% hydrochloric acid and absolutely no reaction was observed. I did the same thing with other pebbles from the find site and violent fizzing occurred. The inevitable Google search, results in one candidate, an Ataxite meteorite. I know a little but not enough to identify my finds, any help would be most greatfully appreciated. Marvin
  5. Your 3200 definitely has video capture off the live view as my 3100 does this. If you have some success, please post, I would be interested to see the results. I am presuming That Sean’s most helpful advice about taking video is to stack the best images using planetary software? Marv
  6. I am not liking Sigma rejection. That is like a green light to fill our skies with really useful junk. How dare you use a bit of software to Instantly solve a terrible problem and massively lessen my chances of putting forward an idea for the next SGL challenge. I want one of those mugs. (No chance) Marvin.
  7. Paul M, I know what you mean, I only started with single test shots just over a year ago and only completed my first two night on the same target a couple months ago. Second thing is I have no idea why I got involved either! But just like you I am. I suggested the sat trails staying in just to show how the bad the problem may become. I personally have not been photo bombed by Elon’s swarm and at present am averaging only 6 out of 100 subs going in the bin. A good deal of that is sure to be that I am limited to 60 second exposures. I think the point of all this is how bad this become in say ten years. I am not so sure about the satellites not being a problem in winter. I am sure I have discarded subs from trails in the dead of winter. Marv
  8. I have been following a thread in imaging about how bad the effect of Star Link has become for imaging. I suggested we highlight the problem instead of getting rid of the trails. Perhaps a challenge to produce the most stunning image utterly ruined by sat trails and aircraft? Marvin
  9. This sure has been an interesting read. If I may make a suggestion with regards to the trails in ap pictures? As with all forms of pollution why not highlight the problem instead of hiding it. Why don’t we produce lovely pictures ruined by star link to show everyone how bad the problem is and how bad it is going to be. This website is currently asking for challenge suggestions, perhaps this could be the next one. I am going to offer this suggestion. At the end of the day the best way to show how bad something has become is to display it graphically like a picture of a natural beach covered in ten thousand plastic flip flops or that bit of footage of the dead whale with it’s intestines full of plastic bags. I am not suggesting that our problem is as big or important as saving sea life but our night skies are still part of our visual environment. From now on I will be going natural, and if there are trails, they are staying in! Marvin
  10. I have an Orion Space Probe 130 which I have upgraded with the PDS focuser, in effect, making it a 130 pds. I also have an SW 150 pds and I find both excellent for AP and visual. I have seen all the planets and at present are 108 of 110 Messiers. I have seen transits and shadow transits of Jupiter. The Cassini division and ring shadow on Saturn plus moons and surface shading on Mars sometime back. At present I am only using a box of cheap Plossls, so with higher end ep,s the views can only get better. FYI I am bortle 4 skies. I cannot comment on imaging planets as I have been concentrating on DSO,s since starting AP as the planets are now just coming back to my latitude. Marvin
  11. Hi Ranger Zeus, I don’t normally reply to these threads as most of them I have no immediate knowledge, this one is on the money. I started Astro three years ago knowing absolutely nothing. A year in bought an SW NEQ5 Pro SynScan V5 and SW 150 PDS with the intention of doing AP with my DSLR At first I was horrified that I had made a huge mistake. The whole world says AP starts at HEQ5. Not so! Now to clarify, really good AP results start at HEQ5. However I am getting usable 60 second subs unguided from my setup with careful polar alignment. I would however say that in my opinion the 200 PDS is a leap too far and the previous suggestion of 130 and 150 for the same cost makes lots of sense. I have imaged Nebula, Clusters, Globs and Galaxies including The Whirlpool, Leo Triplet and M81/82 with some success. Thinking about it.. would you be better off buying an HEQ5 130PDS then getting a 150 in the future? That way you are mount future proofed. It has taken me a year to learn how to take all the subs darks flats etc and it will take a lot longer to learn processing so you have plenty of time not to mention cloudy skies to look forward to. Marvin
  12. My advice is to not rush anything. I know it is hard as I remember my first sessions and I was clearly trying to exceed M Messier’s life’s work in one night. The second thing is that your great choice of scope is one of the best for portability. If you can, move location as the moon is a fabulous waxing crescent right now early in the night. Once the moon drops below the horizon you can have a look at M13 which is always a treat. Always start with your lowest Magnification eye pieces (biggest number in mm’s) to give you the best view for locating the object. Once you find the treasure you can increase mag. Happy star gazing. Marvin
  13. No problem, I could have done with your help on Friday night! Have you got it working with Stellarium or CDC yet? M
  14. I use a D3100 as a beginner into AP and it is great. I am well aware that DSLRs are at the bottom of AP compared to cooled CCDs. At the start DSLRs are light weight and convenient. But if it wasn’t for the fact that I already had the Nikon before the scope I would be Canon all night long. I think there is focus software and extras for Canon for free and nothing for Nikon. Just look at how many Astro AP are using Canon. Very few ‘choose Nikon’. Marvin
  15. If understand correctly, you are using an EQ5 mount with Synscan upgrade kit?? I have the same. If what you are trying to do, is what you describe then it will not work. You cannot start your mount and star align with the Synscan handset, then disconnect and plug in a pc/laptop. You have to operate your mount via the Synscan hand control unit or buy from FLO the dedicated cable, to connect your mount to a computer using the Ascom platform and the Eqmod driver. The cable is Lynx Astro Eqmod. Just today I have been through this ordeal something akin to the Spanish Inquisition! Don’t be put off as when it works, IT WORKS. The trial by ordeal is as follows- Order correct usb cable for your mount via FLO. Don’t be tempted by alternatives as the quality is important. Make sure the laptop you are using is Microsoft. Search by your preferred engine “Ascom” and download the Ascom platform. I don’t know the blurb but it is a common interface that allows Astro programs to talk to each other. Once you have the Ascom platform downloaded, search your preferred engine for EQMOD. Be careful, the top line is for Ascompad, you don’t want that. Next line down is what you need, Eqmod. Be aware that you click on Eqmod but the download button is still for Ascompad. THEY DONT MAKE IT EASY! Once you have downloaded EQMOD you are in the pit of hell fire. At this point you need a good YouTube tutorial on a separate tablet and some Scotch if you are eighteen or older. The biggest deal with the whole thing, after connecting your mount with the special cable and powering up the mount direct, no handset, is to find out your COM PORT number. Now I am on Windows ten, so to find this I RIGHT CLICK the Microsoft start button bottom left. A box appears with a big list. Device controller. Half way down USB, double click and it will show you the com port number your cable is assigned. Get out of there and click your start button for your list of programs. Being Windows 10 EQMOD is at the top as a newly downloaded app. Toolbox is what you want! But not yet. You have to right click on it, select ‘more’ and select administrator. That’s right, you knew that, you were telepathic or part of the design team that created this secret mythical world. Now you are in to the EQMOD program. Almost there.... you must be joking. More mind reading. Hit the driver button and ensure that in COM PORT you select the number you found earlier. Didn’t wright it down? Go back start again. Remembered COM number great. Keep following that YouTube tutorial because you cannot get a refund on the next two days of your life. M
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