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Lockie

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About Lockie

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    Ipswich
  1. Which APO refractor

    Also if you want something really unique, maybe you could Moonraker a nice Apo objective lens? http://moonrakertelescopes.co.uk/index.html
  2. Which APO refractor

    That's a great review John thanks for that It mirrors the vibe I've always heard about these scopes here and on CN. The bit where someone looked through the AP130 and cried with joy was my favourite bit!
  3. Which APO refractor

    I might have had a bit more luck on the second hand market by the sounds of things. I've bought and sold more than my fair share of lenses, scopes, binos second hand. My findings are that most people are honest and furthermore where ebay is concerned, know they'll get bad feedback if they don't mention fungus fro example. The scope I mentioned is from a dealer so I would be very surprised if they didn't describe it accurately: "Quite a rare scope on the used market and for it's age it's in stunning condition, the optics are also very very clean" I know people used to have to pay a deposit and sit on their hands for years to get hold of these scopes, so thought it worth a mention
  4. Which APO refractor

    Weight is a very good consideration. Triplets don't half get heavy quick with aperture! I've owned a number of ED66, ED80, ED100's and an ED120 Equinox, but I remember being very surprised by the weight of an Ascension 80mm f/6 triplet a bought a few years back.
  5. Which APO refractor

    I'm fantasy shopping for the OP who judging by his sig has no APO's. Further to that I think we'll have to agree to disagree regarding new verses old always being better
  6. Which APO refractor

    Starfire's don't turn up every day on the used market, and it would cool quicker and perform better with the average seeing conditions we 'enjoy' here. If I had a mountain top Obsy though I would pick the Esprit 150, or maybe an even bigger APO Not that the Esprit 150 isn't a dream scope, but if we're playing fantasy scope with lots of cash to burn
  7. Which APO refractor

    I you've got silly money to spend then I'd just go the whole hog and get a Tak or APM. Or there's a nice Astrophysics Starfire EDF 130 on ENS at the moment. http://ensoptical.co.uk/astro-physics-130-edf
  8. Show us your Frac

    Looks really good, great job you've done with that tripod
  9. I started off imaging with an f/6 achro and the star bloat was really bad. My second scope was a little ED66 and the difference was staggering. Unless you're an absolute whiz with photo shop and doing things with layers I would save for a second hand ED refractor. I've just bought another ED70 second hand, and it inlcudes a diagonal, RDF, and eyepieces for £250 shipped, so not much more than you budget. You can pick up a little ED optical tube for as little as £180-200 on the used market.
  10. exceedingly cheap refractor

    I'd get something with a better mount, this will only frustrate you with how wobbly it is.
  11. The 8.75" f/6.7 Mirror Grind

    Sounds good Nigel, I'll skip the smoothers in that case and see how things look after the 400 and 600 Al Oxide. I'd better start reading up on making a pitch lap and setting up test equipment
  12. Mancave Open and New Toys!

    Very very nice, have fun
  13. The 8.75" f/6.7 Mirror Grind

    I had about 4 hours on this yesterday, half the time used to clean down, scrape and re-wax the tool, then I cleaned everything again to make sure no 220 grit was left hanging about. Also a bit of bevel maintenance so I don't chip the mirror whilst grinding. So, about 2 hours actual grinding with the 400 grit after all said and done. The 400 grit is much smoother than I expected, you can hardly hear it cutting. I used short W strokes rotating both the mirror and tool. Before I started I eyed up a little bunch of pits which formed a little triangle in the mirrors centre. After about 300g of 400 grit I could no longer see these. I could see the odd little pit here and there still, but think they might be caused mainly by the 400 grit from what I'm starting to understand. The surface in general looks much smoother under the magnified gaze of the upturned 25mm Plossl, so I feel like progress is being made I think I might be ready for the next grit size, so not really remembering what I actually have I've took a quick inventory: - Alu Oxide 400 - ( 9 micron Alox (600) - 1st smoothing 225 - 2st smoothing 175 - 3rd smoothing 125 - Pitch and rouge. I'm not sure if I should use the Alu oxide 400 before the 9 micron Alox 600? Any help deciding would be appreciated. My gut feeling is to use the Alu oxide 400 first as despite being 400 grade like I've just used, I'm thinking it would be softer than the carbide so would leave a smoother finish. The smoothers are in numerical order, after which I think that's when I need to test the mirrors curve for sphericity.
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