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About Lockie

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  1. I'm not agreeing with Alan just because he's agreeing with me lol, but what he says is so true. Lots of us accumulate lots of kit, then periodically thin the kit out keeping what suits us at the time. And yes, having a easy to setup fast cooling scope can be the difference between choosing to get out there or not. Maybe buy a 3rd scope to go with your existing 2
  2. I do see what you're saying, though personally I don't find the weather reliable enough to load the car up and drive somewhere remote and dark. I've often looked out to see a clear sky, set up in the garden only to see the clouds rolling in and maybe catch a quick glimpse of something. Over the years my kit as become more and more compact to suit the conditions. If a big Dob suited the conditions things would have evolved that way I'm sure. We have a big 22" Dob at our club which I've seen nothing through as of yet. Last time it was set up in my presence the fog rolled in and everyone said "I should have known! lol". I guess it doesn't help that I don't often attend the club, I feel guilty for leaving my wife to deal with our young kids. Family comes first and all that, which is another reason I don't load the car up and drive off somewhere remote. P.s. Not moaning, just saying how I see it for me. The big Dob thing obviously suits you better which is fine, but your earlier statement of advice to the OP was just too sweeping for some of us not to respond.
  3. Bigger is always better.....if you have an obsy in a very dry climate on top of a mountain, and adaptive optics. If you live in average suburbia, then you might consider a scope which isn't too effected by seeing conditions, cools quick, and fast to setup/take down to be a better option. We would all prefer the mountain version but it's sadly not practical for most of us. I've told him different To the OP, test both scopes side by side on your next session to see which you prefer. don't worry if you want to keep both, some of us have many scopes as it's part of the hobby to look through/image through different optics
  4. Scope wise, keep it short in focal length to increase the field of view on the chip. This will help with finding the star in question (surprisingly tricky), and having enough reference stars in the field of view for your analyses. If your budget is 200, maybe buy the mount EQ3 with RA motor, and a cheap DLSR and 200mm prime lens off ebay. Yes the DLSR is colour which isn't ideal, and the lens won't be apo so there will be a bit of error in your data, but I really do fear you won't be able to get off the ground even searching around manually for an obscure star with a long scope and a tiny chip, and never being sure if you actually have the right star! At least with the DLSR and a lens you'll have a big field of view to find the star and reference stars in question. You could buy a Canon 1100D and 200mm lens for your ASI120mm budget! Thinking about it more deeply, I feel this is your only hope within budget. If you have more money yes buy a small reflector, but not one with a long focal length. You can see how different telescope and cameras effect field of view using the 12Dstring site: http://www.12dstring.me.uk/fovcalc.php Good luck
  5. I'll be honest, I don't know that exact information off the top of my head, but mean average dips tend to be around 1% in light. Maybe check out the Exoplanet Transit Database for more specifics. http://var2.astro.cz/ETD/ I don't think there is a table for cameras vs transit detection, not sure there is a need? I don't see why the ASI120mm wouldn't work as long as you don't saturate the chip with excessive exposure. The camera I used to detect HD209458b was circa late 90's! Think it was an Sbig ST7.
  6. Show me your eyepiece cases

    The Luminos might not be as bad as you think
  7. Wow, pretty much perfection! congratulations
  8. Sounds OK apart from the power situation, as long as it comes to focus I tried my 100p with the ASI120mc the other night and that comes to infinity focus with 2-3 mm to spare....job done.
  9. That FCD100 glass does seem to be taken the batten from FPL53. ES use it on their 'premium Apo's' which have a very high Strehl. As long as it's mated well with the other elements, in a well engineered cell, in a well baffled tube, with a good figure, then I wouldn't mind whether it's FCD or FPL
  10. If you don't mind? what scope do you have on the way, Matthew? Always exciting to get a new scope
  11. Do you mean this one? https://www.bresser.de/en/Sale/Display-Items/BRESSER-Messier-EXOS-1-EQ-4-Mount-bresser.html I've got a feeling that the Bresser has proper bearings in it's axis, and obvioulsy the steel tripod is a big improvement over the ali EQ3 one, so I would say the Bresser is better, but an awful lot of people have the Skywatcher EQ3, and there is plenty on the net about making improvements to them. The above Bresser is a good price for the spec with it being ex display. I've bought ex display kit from them in the past and to be honest it all looked new.
  12. New Borg Telescopes

    I saw those pop up on your site, will you stop it with all these gorgeous premium refractors, what are you trying to do to us