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About Petrol

  • Rank
    Star Forming

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  • Location
    North West, near Preston
  1. Thanks for the feedback everyone Whilst processing is subjective, I think I may have gone overboard a bit on this one! Guess I don’t know when to stop The LP is pretty bad here, particularly to my south. I tried a few filters but they didn’t seem to do much. Then I bought Steve’s book and on his recommendation, bought a Hutech Idas which did the trick for me. Something you know very little about Olly, you lucky chap! One of my ambitions in life is to see the Milky Way. It’s dissapointing that such a wonder of nature is taken away from many Again thanks for the comments and clear skies! Pete
  2. It's been 2 months since I had clear skies! SW 200P Atik 314L+ OSC 20 lights @ 300s Darks Flats Guided on EQ6 Thanks for looking Pete
  3. Nice gates! Impressive craftsmanship As for pouring concrete / laying bricks – Bricks have frogs (that’s the hole / recess in them) This allows the mortar to key and prevents lateral movement. Allowing the mortar to dry and laying courses on top does not weaken the structure. Pouring a pier in two sessions does weaken it mainly because the first pour is left flat; it just flows out with gravity. The second pour has little to key to From my understanding the best budget pier is concrete in a plastic tube with rebar. I also used a scaffolding pole in mine. Since this is a combination of plastic / steel / concrete, it offers the best solution. Composite construction is often the strongest. I like the brick pier a lot. Blends in to the garden, easy and not expensive to build. Also not a nightmare to get rid of if you move. Anything is better than a tripod and personally, I can’t see the brick edges being a problem. Good job
  4. Pics are now back up of the finished job
  5. Thank you for your replies Derek, the increase in imaging time is significant. Rather than thinking, “better pack up now because it’s going to take me ages to unplug and lug the gear in” I can relax knowing that it’s a breeze to pack up. The other thing is, I rolled the cover off the other night and got only 3 subs before the clouds rolled in. No big deal, I parked the scope and packed up in no time at all. Olly, thanks for the comments. With the processing, I used to use curves for the initial stretch but now use levels. I only use curves for bringing out specific areas of the image and it helps prevent highlights blowing out. Fitted gym mat to the floor Also fitted some spare track to stick on the draught excluder This piece of laminate flooring provides the seal. Also note the shoot bolts, this will prevent the shed buckling in very high winds or if ever there’s a significant amount of snow on it Cut some foam to make some shelves for accessories I have also painted the inside of the shed with a 1:10 dilution of PVA glue. This is to help reduce dust off the timber and polystyrene Thanks for looking Pete
  6. First light, Iris Nebula. All comments welcome 200P Atik 314L+ Colour ST 80 / QYH5 / PHD Guided 36 Lights @ 300s 20 Darks Flats with EL panel Also stained the roll off
  7. No it's not sealed. Since the DPC / timber joist is covered by the obsy, it won't get wet from above. My concern in your case was quite a bit of DPC sticking out and water running along the DPC and into the joist. The purpose of a DPC is to stop moisture rising from the ground. Bit of theory that might shed some light on it. Timber only rots when the water stagnates. If you throw a piece of wood into the sea it won't rot. Drive a wooden stake into the ground and it will. Just try to keep the load bearing timbers dry Tanalised timber makes a huge difference though and if you are doing what others have, you will be OK. Hope that helped Best, Pete
  8. Chris, that's one one tall pier! Are you imaging or observing?
  9. Hi Chris, Great progress so far. I hope you don't mind me saying that if I were you, I would cut back the excess DPC between the pad stones and the joists. If the DPC overhangs the obsy, water will wick up the joists and they will rot. Preservative is great but timber cannot stand being wet for long. Whilst my roll off is tiny compared to your project, the same principles apply. This is how I fitted my DPC between the joists and the pad stones. Just a minor point but a few minutes trimming back now could save you problems later. Regards, Pete
  10. It's all red, white and blue Need I say anymore? Sorry spaceboy I didn't answer your question about the track. The exposed part of it is removable so I can protect it from the elements. A bonus is that it looks like a regular shed
  11. Thanks for the feedback, looks like I am on the right track (no pun intended) with it then but it's not been the easiest thing I've ever built. I guess the fully hinged door made it more of a challenge. To be honest, I thought I would have to get some steel in there to make it rigid enough. Steel is heavy though and would put extra load on the rollers. The timber diagonal braces to the roof sorted it though. I'm not the best with words so here are some more pics All wired up and fitted the scope for a trial run Connector panel Thanks for looking and much more to follow Pete
  12. Your welcome Auntystatic. I have a vid of the roll off but can't seem to embed it. Linkerty linkson Pete
  13. Yes Spaceboy, 10 degrees Thanks rfdesigner, I will look into a humidity controlled fan Hope this helps Auntystatic. I did this to lower the c of g and reduce the height of the roll off
  14. Door had to be in one, double doors were not an option. It's sorted now. I'll post a vid up when I get chance. The guidescope is just attached to the bottom of the 200P scope rings. I can post a pic up if you want. The roof covering on any roll off is a difficult choice. It has to be lightweight, capable of withstanding flexture, last and look good. Roof tiles are probably the longest lasting roofing solution but they don't interlock properly. This would result in tiles moving. They are also very heavy, typically 50kg / Sq M. Think I have found the ideal solution. These are Envirotile interlocking roof tiles. They weigh in at 9Kg / Sq M They lock together like this The rows also lock together offering a maximum strength. The result is that they won't move with vibration First job was to cover the roof with breathable under felt Then lay the tiles. Since they lock together it's easy. I have never tiled a roof before The result
  15. The door is quite wide - 1.2M which was creating an awful lot of leverage on the hinge side of the roll off. As a result the whole frame was twisting so I had to beef things up a bit Double thickness brace here Also tied into the roof purlins (I think that's what they are called but I know little about roofing) This made the frame rigid so on went the door. Note the 60 X 40mm thick timber for support at the hinge end, and the lightweight roofing battens at the other to reduce the load Roof insulation fitted Pic inside Thanks for looking Pete
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