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Everything posted by Chris

  1. Hehe yeah I think he's reached some kind of Shaman level trance like state. I used to get visual disturbances after the 16.5 hour night shifts we had to do years ago, so Mark must be really tripping after 140 hours!
  2. Yaaah! Still going strong even after smashing it He doesn't want this record breaking anytime soon!
  3. I find it's very much dependant on eye relief! For example - I remember needing to clean my ES82's after every use, as my eyelashes would 'bat' the eye lens repeatedly, but I rarely need to clean eyepieces with longer eye relief such as BST's, StellaLyra LER's and Vixen SLV's etc.
  4. I keep popping in to see how he's going on, and it's just unreal! Talk about the right stuff! I would have been asleep under the chair days ago!
  5. I think it's amazing when people lecture for 2-3 hours, so to see him nearly 105 hours in and still going is just incredible! I so hope he breaks the record and raises loads of money. Shared
  6. This is brilliant! Super clean for a single stretched sub, and that detail can't be from a light stretch....or maybe actually with the RASA.
  7. Happy birthday Alan! Or should I say happy Halloween
  8. The first mirrorless camera I ever tested for imaging was the original Canon EOS M. They are basically a Rebel camera made to look like a bar of soap I thought lol. Good for galaxies, globs, and reflection nebulae, but the stock Canon IR cut filter is too harsh for those faint nebulae I feel. https://www.mpb.com/en-uk/used-equipment/used-photo-and-video/used-mirrorless-cameras/used-canon-mirrorless-cameras/canon-eos-m/sku-1289632/ Basically £100 for an APS-C sensor, so a cheap galaxy cam
  9. Yes some of the mirroless cameras weigh about the same as a diagonal and eyepiece. Also have you seen the new ZWO ASI485 and 482's Large sensor planetary cams https://www.firstlightoptics.com/zwo-cameras/zwo-asi-482mc-usb-30-colour-camera.html https://www.firstlightoptics.com/zwo-cameras/zwo-asi-485mc-usb-30-colour-camera.html
  10. I think I was inherently into space and astronomy from a early age because I can't remember an event triggering it. My parents bought my first telescope for xmas when I was 7 or 8. Although it was one of those 60mm plastic fantastic jobbies so I quickly lost interest until I bought a better telescope in my teens. I laid my eyes on Saturn and at that moment I knew what subject to pick for Uni First attempt at Astrophotography was interesting! I strapped an SLR to my 6" reflector, I think it was 1997? Anyway, I pointed at the Moon and focused the best I could, then patiently waited for Boots to develop the images. The results very much remind me of this!
  11. Brilliant vlaiv! 66mm even without the filter is a major improvement, and you're still at f7.5 which isn't that slow. This seems like a great option for budget imaging, just grab an ST80 or similar and stop it down a bit. I kind of want to try it myself. No pun intended but I 'figure' it also helps with the optical figure. The edge of the lenses is usually worst culprit from what I understand.
  12. P.s. that's a very nice mosaic from the achromat, the CA certainly isn't quite as apparent at that scale!
  13. I will certainly add it to my list of project/video ideas, vlaiv! I agree it would be interesting to see if there is anything the math doesn't reveal. I would need to change my software though as I currently use DSS and GIMP for DSO's. My very next project is to play around with smartphones for astrophotography. I've recently upgraded to a Samsung Galaxy 20 FE and it looks very promising using the pro photography mode which gives full manual control and RAW. I will be interested to see what can be done with that
  14. I think this would only work if you could easily bin mirrorless and DLSR pixels, and if you also had the inclination to do a mosaic. I would personally just use a wider lens to increase the pixel scale and in turn how long you can track without smearing the photons across pixels on the sensor. Lenses can be stopped down to help even budget lenses perform a little better, but you get what you pay for with both lenses and telescopes of course. The mounting point is often on the base of the camera when using vintage lenses, so off axis weight on declination can be a problem, although I do personally prefer the helical focuser of lenses as they don't slip like my Crayford did when pointed close to zenith.... despite being locked off . I also had problems with the refractor almost hitting the tripod, and the balance was very tricky on dec also with the ED72, reducer/flattener and camera hanging off the back. I do think you could do as you say with a dedicated astro cam with binning and mosaics, but I will hazard a guess that most people using star trackers are either relatively new to imaging or just want to keep things simple. I think I get your point, it's about pixel scale ultimately rather than focal length, but for a given 'fixed' pixel size focal length does then of course matter.
  15. I have that very same 135mm on my rig at the moment, it's great!
  16. Me too. It's not my first rodeo with vintage lens astrophotography as I've dabbled a bit here and there, but it really is relatively easy and cheap! Great wide angle Cygnus by the way. looking at it I think 50mm might be good for capturing both NGC7000 and Sadr. I might give that a go.
  17. That's good to hear, thank you Ha yeah I kept dropping the price out of curiosity but it was getting a tad bit silly by the time it had dropped to 8 quid. Glad I held onto it now despite the lens having more lateral chromatic aberration than you can shake a stick at! When you pixel peep the corner stars, the blue channel sits besides the star it's meant to be apart of lol Great work in narrowband there!
  18. Good job! Was this shot wide open at f/3.5? I reckon you can clean those corner stars up by stopping down a little bit. I ended up stopping down to f5.6 which did the trick. M31 does look well framed at 200mm so I'm looking forward to giving this one a go. I've only ever imaged it with an ED66 which is slightly on the tight side.
  19. Great report Mark, I can't imagine you'll forget that session in a hurry and very interesting to hear how you describe the NV experience. It really does sound like a whole new level. Dark skies verses LP never ends well for LP does it.
  20. Despite many years of dabbling, I still class myself as a noob when it comes to DSO imaging. Well maybe another way of looking at it is that I tend to keep things simple and affordable i.e. just some basic star tracker antics with a stock Fuji camera for example. However, It's surprising how much can actually still go wrong even when keeping things simple! For starters my eyes were bigger than my belly trying to image unguided with a 72mm refractor with 432mm focal length on a star tracker but I knew this going in. Does anyone else try things they know aren't a good idea? Much better to stick to something like a Redcat51 or an 8 quid 200mm vintage lens in this case.
  21. Lovely Ha regions in the arms, and It's a very rich rendition with a nice glow to the stars, nice one!
  22. It's not a necessity, but an enhancement. A light shroud will increase contrast, prevent air currents from hot breath as mentioned, and it will also help prevent your secondary mirror from dewing up. Below is my step by step guide to modding the Heritage 150p. I cover (no pun in intended) how to make an affordable foam light shroud that can remain on the telescope even when you collapse it down for storage. Plus I demonstrate the good old plumbers tape focuser mod which is handy for taking that slack out the helical focuser.
  23. Your reports are always so well written and great to read Rob What a wonderful scope. Wishing you many more happy years with it....unless you upgrade to a Tak
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