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  2. You have some degree of control over the rotation (prior to attaching camera) by simply taking out the screws on the tilt adjuster and rotating it in portions of 120deg, if you get it close, the rest of the camera orientation is finished by tweaking up the tightness of the extention rings (not too tight though... dont want to bind them). Its kinda arbitrary, but Ive never failed to get the camera landsacpe or portrait with it (in repect to the focuser). Collimation is done simply by removing the corrector (it screws out). Or... if you have a short cheshire in your box you can just leave the CC in, attach an EP holder to the M48 thread and off you go... but I do stess that it needs to be a short cheshire - otherwise you will hear the glorious sound of metal on glass... not good!
  3. Ok, fellow hobbyists, time to make some noise. On May 24, 2 days ago, SpaceX launched the first pack of 60 satellites in the StarLink project. Elon Musk intends to cover our airspace in 12000 of these in Low Earth Orbit. Tonight I got the first glimpse of what that means. Only 2 days in! I was shooting the Iris Nebula and randomly checked my frame (which is borked for bad tracking, but that's another thing). I then checked the satellite tracker , and yes, sure enough, they flew right past. Yes, I know, we have the tools available to the clear these images with stacking. But imagine every single frame from a night contains this. 200 times more of these will be in the sky by the end of this. We already messed up our night skies with unnecessary light pollution, I don't think we need to make it worse by placing junk up there.
  4. Sorry, I don't follow. The VIP is sold as: VIP lens mounted on a 1.25" nosepiece, 2 T2 spacers, a ring, and a 2-to-1.25" adapter. The latter can be used as a 2" nosepiece. What I did was simply to detach the VIP glass from the 1.25" nosepiece and attach it to a Baader Tak ring, which was then screwed to the 2-to-1.25" adapter directly. The T2 spacers were screwed on top of the same adapter. If your zoom is made by Baader, it is more than likely that it can connect via T2. Therefore you can connect it to the VIP via the T2 ring as I showed you in the above photos.
  5. When I set out, the sky was clear. I had six doubles targets in The Northern Crown in mind. I chose the ED80 for the sharpness of stars, and the GoTo mount because starting/hopping can be difficult with light skies. Arcturus appeared at 9.55; aligned on that. Sigma 1965 (CrB) is a quintuple system, visual double, 6.4" separation. GoTo got me spot on at x24. Going up to x48 split the star beautifully, with the fainter component above - a lovely sight, very sharp, closely matched, still close, but distinct, and nothing else in view. And that I'm afraid is that! After a promising start, I tried to get into the gaps, but the the gaps closed, so I finished after 40 minutes, but that one lovely double made it worthwhile! Doug.
  6. Regarding 1.25" diagonals, I have a TV everbrite which works very well. Said this, if I didn't have one my current choice would be the T2 Baader Zeiss prism diagonal with 2" nosepiece. The latter will allow you to use your 2" filters directly. There are many other valid options.
  7. I haven't tried it with a 2" nose piece. The VIP didn't come with one. I bought it second hand so I'm not sure if that's normal or not. I do have the 2" nose piece from the zoom though that I could try. Will pop out and give that a go now. Thanks for the suggestion!
  8. Those are pretty stunning analogue cameras! I’m using 902H2 and still useful for meteor detection. I’m hoping to get a 910 someday.
  9. How do you use your Baader VIP Barlow with your 2" diagonal? Do you use it in 1.25" mode? I don't have any focus issue with the VIP barlow. Mine only has 2" nosepiece, therefore there is no issue with hitting the diagonal mirror. It is used with my zoom and docter eyepieces which connect to the Barlow in T2 mode. Spacers are added between the Barlow and the eyepiece. In my opinion, the VIP barlow is an extraordinary piece of equipment.
  10. Thanks. I'll only be adding a filter wheel at the moment and maybe a reducer/Flattener in future. Just wanted to be sure I'd be okay with 31mm filters in efw mini without vignetting.. On my 840 esprit120ed at f7, should be OK? Right?
  11. I am still having issues saving one or 2 star alignment with the SynScan App Instruction indicate up and right to save Been southern hemisphere, use Sirius and Canopus for 2 star alignment When go to Sirius, as first star, save, then goes to second star, the App choices selection of stars it wants, not what I want Any help John
  12. Do you intend to use it for astrophotography? The canon is much better supported by AP software, as Nikon won't release the SDK for their lowly D3000-series. See APT Nikon Support Matrix as an example. Ady
  13. I think that the SW 0.85x flattener has a m48 thread? I think that diagram is the wrong way around. You don't need the m48 to T2 if the scope side is T2 surely. For that size of sensor 1mm won't make a difference. Adam
  14. Today
  15. Dave Would go with a HEQ5 mount, with a ED120 Alternately Celestron alternate option I have an ED80 on a EQ5pro mount Recently also got the WiFi adapter Makes life easier Just download SynScan App to your mobile device The App automatically sets your GPS location, date/time Attached pic taken at a recent solar viewing day John
  16. The camera I use for my occultation observations is a Watec 910HX/RC (mono) which provides an analogue output. However I digitize the signal via a USB video adaptor to record onto laptop. Simple to use, great for live viewing and still good for obtaining useful scientific data.
  17. Brings back memories of squeezing copious amounts of Molyslip into the rear gearbox of my Moto Guzzi. A must have for those 1970s bits of Italian motorcycle metal. 🏍
  18. Olli Is your dob on a tripod mount, or standard chipboard base Over time, the chipboard base will deteriorate if exposed to moisture When use mine, put on a small waterproof tarp
  19. I have 80mm TS F/6 triplet and that one is a peach (not to be confused with lemon! - ah those fruity metaphors). With x0.79 FF/FR it is brought down to ~384mm and that will give you about 2"/px with ASI1600 (I use the same camera on my scope). Stellarvue might have same scope under their brand - there are quite a few that have been "shared" between brands recently (same Chinese manufacturer but different branding). Yep, here it is: https://www.stellarvue.com/stellarvue-svx080t-25sv-premier-apochromatic-triplet-refractor/ And I think that that one is pretty much the same as this one from TS (one that I have): https://www.teleskop-express.de/shop/product_info.php/info/p3881_TS-Optics-PHOTOLINE-80mm-f-6-FPL53-Triplet-APO---2-5--RAP-Focuser.html Anyways, SV says that "their" optics on this scope have above 0.98 strehl, to quote them: " SVX series optics are rated at .98 - .996 Strehl with excellent optical correction for aberrations commonly seen in mass produced optics " I can actually confirm this - I tested my scope (self test with use of win roddier test) and got strehl in 0.98 for red channel (green was a bit poorer at 0.94, and blue the worst - this is to be expected, I did analysis with OSC camera - channels are not quite well separated on it, at 0.8. For proper analysis I'll need to redo it with mono camera and narrow band filters). So that would be very good wide field option in those aperture ranges and budget. However, given budget, why constrain yourself to these apertures? Something in 100+ range with less than F/5 (with matching FF/FR) will give you moderate FOV range / resolution and will suck photons in faster.
  20. Dave Welcome from Land Down Under You travel the universe in this forum John
  21. The Tak prism does this - shorten the path - rather well for me. Nice and light for travel as well. The TeleVue Everbrite is a very nice mirror. TS offers dielectric mirror diagonals by GSO, these are made to a very good spec and work very well: https://www.teleskop-express.de/shop/product_info.php/info/p1771_TS-Optics-1-25--TS-Optics-1-25--Star-Diagonal-with-ring-clamb---99----1-12-Lambda.html
  22. Which camera should i go for..... Cant decide Which is better
  23. That thing is quite a heavy beast! Anyhow, I hope you enjoy it!
  24. I reckon I have it about spot on going off this from Zwo. So from my SW FF/FR I have the exact setup as the diagram giving me 56mm. In my EFW I have a Baader Ha filter that is 2mm thick. 1/3 of that is 0.66mm giving me a difference of 0.44mm away from the desired 55mm. I take it I will be ok with this ?
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