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About gajjer

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    Star Forming

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  • Location
    Cheltenham, Glos

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  1. Well I have managed to capture a few frames of the horsehead nebula and first run through with processing showed promise but for the fact that the stars are really bloated. So what did I do. Well obviously I googled Star mask horsehead nebula looking for a nice tutorial. Sigh. It's a sign of the times, Guess what I got. cheers gaj
  2. Having travelled this path myself. I thoroughly recommend that you look into controlling the mount with Cartes du Ciel. Go look at EQMOD and ASCOM. You can just click on a star and the mount will go to it. Certainly makes life easier. cheers gaj
  3. Yes. That's the one. Then get Canon Utility installed. When you plug in an power up the camera, the Utility should fire up. You can then due live viewing or set a schedule of exposures. You need to read the manual really. cheers gaj
  4. That sounds like a pretty normal night for me. Except, you missed out the "where the heck is the USB cable for the camera?" . . . "Oh no. Windows has started doing an update." . . ."Why wont the filter wheel connect?" It has taught me patience. Otherwise I would have a pile of plastic, aluminium and glass scrap. It's character building. Grrrrrr. cheers gaj
  5. Hmm. It's not really giving a true impression of scale is it! I like a good jigsaw. Reminds me of Christmas. Have we had Christmas yet? cheers gaj
  6. Gosh yes. What an assault on the eyes that must be when slewing. Now let me see. Old office chair - check, two dustbins - check, stepper motors - check, Raspberry pi - check. Right, I'm off to the garage! cheers gaj
  7. Hi Brutha just to reinforce what AMcD said. I made my pier so that I had location dowels that would ensure I positioned the mount in exactly the same position each time I fitted it. The intention was to take the mount off after each session. However, it wasn't long before it was being left on all the time. All I did was remove the scope and cover the mount with a rugged black bin bag. It's been fine for several years. I can't bring myself to leave the scope on it though. The other thing I have is a plastic bin. At the end of a session all the cables, focus control, games pad etc all
  8. If I may stick my beak in here. I can't see it either. Have you tried plate solving on it? cheers Gaj
  9. I didn't say it didn't suck in. I was trying to say it wouldn't suck in a concentrated stream. It will draw air over a wider area. cheers gaj
  10. Not sure that is true. When a hair drier blowing, it blows in a concentrated stream of air. If you reversed the motor, I don't think it would suck in the same concentrated flow. My gut tells me that blowing air through the fins is better but with such close proximity of the fan to the heatsink, I don't think there would be much difference. cheers gaj
  11. This happened to me towards the end of last year. No kit was damaged in this story but it did put the wind up me. I was out the back with my telescope. All was running well while I took images of something or other. I am on my own and it's pretty dark . . .obviously. Then I heard a clunk. Like someone had tripped over something nearby. I froze. Ears turned up to 11 I stood still and listened for more movement. Nothing for at least a couple of minutes. Then again. Clunk. Clearly the intruder thought the coast was clear. I reached for my torched and waved it round where the sound appea
  12. Hi GuySt I'm 69 and I do this stupid stuff all the time. I am, however, making a laminated check list to reduce the rate of idiot failures. If like me you find it difficult to get back up having bent down to look through the polar scope , you may benefit from using a webcam on the polar scope. I just bought a cheep webcam and made a little adapter to connect it to the eyepiece. I use Sharpcap to look at the image. Works a treat and no more groaning trying to get back up! Just a suggestion. I have only just started using it and I'm chuffed as punch. cheers Gaj
  13. Thank you all for your responses. MarkAR: The camera works if I use commands in terminal. It's specifically Astroberry I am having problems with and particularly Oacapture. RadekK: I'm not sure how I identify the driver. In the INDI Control Panel of Kstars it seems to indicate V4L2 CCD , indi_v4l2_ccd. See my comments below to JamesF 7170: Yes it's enabled and works in Python3. JamesF: Thanks to Amazon and a secure pension, I have managed to get a V2 camera. I can get it to run in Ekos. It takes pictures and streams video. It still does not work with Oacapture. I am glad yo
  14. Hi all well, I am trying to find out why my Raspberry Pi camera V1 will not work with Astroberry. I have gone round and round Google and my head is spinning with dead ends. I was hoping to run Oacapture and do some planetary stuff. However, when I try to select the camera it tells me it can't connect. Fair enough. Am I right in thinking that there are only INDI drivers for V2 cameras? I'm not a software person so be gentle with me. cheers Gaj
  15. I've just moved to a new location and I'm using a new setup until I can get a pier sorted. I'm using a EQ£-2 with a LYNX ASTRO USB EQ DIRECT cable, Skywatcher 150PD, Canon 60D camera, Skywatcher Finder with a QHY5-II guider. Now all of this setup is new to me. My new location does not have a clear view of North, so I'm running blind on that. I set it roughly using a compass and also judging the shadow at 1:00pm. Crude I know. The first time I ran it I managed to get calibration but could see that Dec was drifting off. So adjusted the mount until it reduced and got under control. That
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