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Louis D

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About Louis D

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    White Dwarf

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    Texas, USA
  1. As long as you keep dust caps on both ends of your OTA (and a plug in the focuser for Newts), you should be good for preventing dust intrusion. I've seen folks using shower caps for this purpose if their scope didn't come with end caps. Dust on the outside is of no importance, and shouldn't be much of an issue anyway in a closet/cupboard. As far as damage prevention, bubble wrap is surprising good for this purpose. I've had an ST80 in a gym bag wrapped in bubble wrap near the bottom of the closet for 20+ years, and it has nary a single ding or dent and the focuser works fine. I was a bit concerned at first in the 90s, but time has proven my worries to be unfounded. When I put my daughter's camping telescope kit together, I bought a 22" long duffel/gym bag and wrapped her 127 Mak in bubble wrap before putting it in the main compartment. I then wrapped the finder scope in bubble wrap and put it in a side pocket. Other pockets hold various accessories. It's worked out pretty well for her. She loves the fact I picked out a purple bag (her favorite color) as well.
  2. There varying degrees of edge LC with wide angle eyepieces. I find it noticeable and intrusive with my 30mm ES-82, but almost non-existent in my 30mm APM UFF. It's quite noticeable in my 13mm and 17mm AT AF70 eyepieces, but almost non-existent in my 12mm and 17mm ES-92 eyepieces. As far as Morpheus eyepieces, it's quite noticeable, along with field curvature and astigmatism, in my 14mm's outer 15%, but all are pretty much non-existent in my 9mm. I have no experience with the 4.5mm.
  3. Why? Are you planning to travel via airlines with them as checked baggage? The cost of true flight quality aluminum cases would be more than your telescopes. The cheap ones from China only have metal at the edges. The textured shiny parts in between are actually textured plastic and are easily punctured. I would look for large plastic totes, sealing or non-sealing, your choice, if you have a need to stack heavy weight on your scopes in storage at home. If nothing is going to be compressing them, simply wrap them in bubble wrap and put them in a large duffle bag or tripod/light-stand/gig case and stand them on end in a closet.
  4. The Vixen SLVs are being closed out by FLO for a good price. They view very similarly to the Pentax XL/XW, just much narrower.
  5. I would just find a sturdy duffel bag of sufficient size to hold the OTA and accessories, plus bubble wrap around everything. I did that for my daughter's 127 Mak so she can take it camping and not look expensive in the open back of an SUV like a flight case would. For the tripod and mount, I got her a Gator bag. They are very sturdy. You might want to bubble wrap the mount, but I wouldn't bother with the legs.
  6. You might also invest in a full aperture solar filter to expand your observing opportunities into the daytime. I've been using a home-made cell for Baader Solar Film for 20+ years.
  7. There are quite a few folks who have many eyepieces. Jim Barnett and Tamiji Homma on CN both report having hundreds of eyepieces, though each has thinned the herd over time. I'm sure there's some folks on SGL that have hundreds as well. I have just over 60 myself.
  8. Sort of like in Spinal Tap: "These go to eleven."
  9. Is the date set correctly? For solar system objects, an alignment is not enough to find them. Ask it to find Sirius, the bright star to the left of Orion as you face south. If it finds it, your alignment is probably good.
  10. Correct, the secondary is slightly off-axis toward the primary. Think of a laser beam striking the center ring itself rather than the hole. Now, the primary is tipped to send the laser beam back to the center of the laser's output. So now, you've got some primary mirror axial misalignment induced by the secondary mirror misalignment, correct? Would a collimation cap be immune to the effects of the tipped secondary when aligning the primary causing the primary to be aligned correctly irrespective of the secondary tip or would it result in the same situation as with the laser?
  11. I've often wondered, if the secondary is tipped relative to the true optical axis, but the primary is compensatingly tipped so the center dot looks centered in a collimation cap reflection, what affect does this have on the image? Does Suiter discuss this condition? I ask because I'm never quite sure if the secondary is pointing exactly at the center of the primary each night even since I check it infrequently, only performing a quick primary check each night.
  12. I would start by seeing if any of your pre-existing eyepieces will reach focus on that tree. If not, with the focuser racked all the way out, loosen the eyepiece (I'd start with your lowest powered one) and start lifting it up and out of the focuser, always looking in it to see if the tree comes into focus. If it does, note the distance between the shoulder of the eyepiece and top of the focuser tube. You'll need to get an extension tube at least that long to reach that close of a focus. I'd probably get one another inch longer so you don't have to have the focuser racked all the way out and to allow you to focus even closer in the future with the focuser racked all the way out.
  13. By all accounts, the Vixen SLVs below 9mm actually have a 45 degree field like their predecessors the NLV and LV did. Thus, they're going to appear straw-like to you as well, but with much better eye relief. The 6.5mm Meade 5000 HD-60 is very well corrected at f/6, has a 65 degree apparent field of view as I measured it via projection, and is comfortable with or without eyeglasses thanks to having both a flip up-down eye cup and a twist-up eye cup.
  14. You'll need about 100mm of in-focus/back-focus to reach focus without using an OCA/GPC. The Williams unit comes with a 1.6x one that might be decent. The 1.85x and 3.0x ones that came with my Arcturus binoviewer were awful. They introduced linear coma as if they had tilted optics. I use the nosepiece from a Meade 140 2x binoviewer to reach focus at about 3.0x instead in my Dob.
  15. They would work as very well corrected 70 degree eyepieces with eyeglasses, I suppose. I would still error toward the 22mm TS-Optics Expanse since usable eye relief would be the same at 70 degrees (with the eyecup removed via unscrewing) and the price and size are much smaller. Yes, the correction at the edge at 70 degrees won't quite be there compared to the XWA.
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