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I wasn't sure where to post this tip....it is probably of most use here....
Many of us with observatories or indoor Mission Control use Windows 10 Pro Remote Desktop to control a scope side computer running camera and scope control software from a second computer indoors. This works superbly at 1080p resolution.
However, I have struggled for a year trying to perfect a wireless solution that works with 4K UHD cameras terminating in a 4K UHD display. Until now, whilst cat 6 cable does work fine, wireless even at 5Ghz 802.11ac has struggled with some lag and poor performance. I have spent a fortune upgrading wireless adapters and range extenders, but this isn't the issue!
Here is a solution;
1. Seperate your dual band network into distinct 5Ghz and 2.4 Ghz channels.
This is easy with (say) a BT Home Hub. If you don't do this, it can be a bit hit or miss whether your 5 Ghz wireless adapters connect to the right channel. You will now see TWO channels, one at 2.4 Ghz with a suffix like <hub name> and another at 5 Ghz named <hub name -5>. Connect your 5Ghz adapters to the latter. If your internal adapters are merely 2.4Ghz, you can disable them via Device Manager and plug in a USB version costing around £5. Note that at 5 Ghz wireless range might drop. If so, a Netgear EX8000 wireless extender is recommended as it employs 'mesh' technology.
2. ONLY if you have a fast network, and powerful CPUs and quality graphics card, try DISABLE 'RemoteFX compression' in RDP.
This allows uncompressed screen data to flow across RDP. I have found this improves performance whether using 802.11ac wireless or cat 6 cable. What RemoteFX compression appears to do is limit effective RDP speeds to under 10Mbps (due to translation times). That is crazy if you have 433 Mbps adapters, and an 802.11ac network (or catv6 cable). Unleash the beast! Send across uncompressed data! The issue is not with speed or bandwidth, it is an artificially imposed limit in RDP.
To do this type 'Edit Group Policy' in the Windows 10 Pro search box (doesn't work in Win 10 Home). You need to drill down through about five levels of Windows Configeration Folders, and Administration Templates and Remote Desktop Services/Host folders to find a utility named <Edit RemoteFX Compression>. In that, your options are <disable> compression or <enable> a compromise mode.
If you don't know how to do this try Googling 'Disabling RemoteFX Compression' to find a lengthy Microsoft tutorial. Or visit https://docs.microsoft.com/en-us/windows-server/administration/performance-tuning/role/remote-desktop/session-hosts .
I deliberately don't here state the quick route sequence to access this deeply embedded network utility command because you are delving deep into developer/administrator territory and do need to understand what you are doing and how to revert to your original RDP settings if your network can't handle these levels of uncompressed screen data. We don't want any novice attempting this on a cheap Compute Stick on an inadequate network!
3. When employing RDP from your computer indoors, select <WAN 10 Mbps> or <LAN 10 Mbps> as appropriate via <Options><Experience>. The default <auto-select my connectivity> often selects too low an option. The irony here is you can select this and still not enjoy faster speeds unless you have edited/disabled RemoteFX compression.
I now have Atik Infinity plus CPWI software running in an end to end 4K UHD system terminating in a 4K UHD monitor. Over 802.11ac wireless it is now rock steady. Over cat 6 cable my system is now turbo powered. If you don't need RemoteFX Compression, don't let it restrict your network performance. It is evidently set to ensure it works on lowest common denominator networks. If you have a fast network/CPU, disable RemoteFX compression and finally release the beast of 4k UHD over RDP.
I gave a demonstration/workshop at my local Astro Group* about a simple way of removing light pollution from an Astro Photo.
The description I gave was deliberately for beginners, using a wide angle tripod shot photo and using one of the easiest packages to get to grips with (Paint.net).
The attached pdf covers the basic technique.
I'd appreciate any feedback on it.
* The Mid Cheshire Astronomical Group - all welcome, we meet on the last Friday of the Month.
Thinking of trying to get my hands on something a little better than GIMP for my Astro Image Processing (something that supports 16 bit images).
(and basically Adobe Photoshop is too expensive for me)
I expect this has been discussed many times, but does anyone use Cyberlink PhotoDirector 9 (£47.99), or Serif Affinity Photo for Windows (£48.99) for their post DSS Image Processing?
The reviews on the above programs are very good indeed on the internet (ie) Tech Radar
I look forward to any recommendations or advice from those that might know please.
While I've been largely locked under clouds for a couple of months, I thought I'd write some software that I've been meaning to get around to for a while.
I use a standard LCD computer monitor for taking flats. I plug it in to my imaging laptop. I started off using a blank HTML page in a full-screen browser window to provide the uniform grey colour on the display but I needed to vary the brightness of the display for different filters.
So, I wrote some software that does it. The software is called Second Monitor Lightbox and is available free of charge from my site (paw-print.com).
If you use a CCD with filter wheel, it'll link to the filter wheel via the ASCOM driver so that, once you've set the perfect brightness for each filter, it will change brightness automatically as the filter changes.
It also has a 'preset' mode for non-ASCOM set ups so that you can just re-call a pre-determined brightness to match a certain configuration (filter, binning, etc).
There's a tutorial based around using SGP Pro on the site, so if you want to try it have a look through that.
When you install it, Windows will warn you that it's from an Unknown Publisher. This is just because I don't pay Microsoft an annual fee for a developer's certificate. Just tell Windows to install it anyway - you may need to click 'More information' to get the option to go ahead.
Let me know what you think. I hope some of you will find it useful. I know it saves me a load of hassle at the end of a long session trying to get the right brightness level to give decent flats for each filter.
You can get it from here: http://paw-print.com