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About 5haan_A

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  1. Hi, Colour processing question here. I am capturing using one shot colour CCD a ZWO 294 pro. I am finding it difficult to get the colour to show whilst processing the image. I am still capturing data on the cluster Caroline's Rose so I don't have anywhere near enough data yet to say it's complete, but I thought I would have a play around with some of the data captured last night. Out of the 30 120 second light frames only 2 of them are ok- it was v cloudy last night. I have attached one 120 second light frame of Caroline's rose, I haven't applied any darks or flats yet, I just wanted to see what it would look like after I debayered it in Nebulosity 4. Firstly it turned a sickly blue, and after adjusting the hue I was left with a very black and white looking image. I could maybe pick out some blue stars at a push, and definitely couldn't pick out any red stars. What am I doing wrong, and how do I improve the colour brought out in processing? L_2019-10-14_00-52-26_Bin1x1_120s__11C.fit recon_L_2019-10-14_00-52-26_Bin1x1_120s__11C.fit
  2. 100% agree with that sentiment. We astronomers can sometimes spend too long looking down rather than looking up. Thanks
  3. I have an eq6 mount so I'll take that. What are the steps I can take to improve the calibration?
  4. Thanks for the replies. I felt there was a little bit of the answer in everyone's replies. The analogy that makes sense to me is that the rotation of the mount in RA is akin to a compass that you used to use in maths class. Once the software figures out, platesolves, where the pole star is it can figure out how far away your mount is from the that centre and then you adjust accordingly. The fact that your guide scope is pointing in a slightly different direction to your mount is not relevant to the software calculation. To some extent that makes sense to me.
  5. Had another crack calibrating tonight. Got to something a little bit more acceptable. This is more what I after isnt it? I'm not familiar with what acceptable calibration data looks like but I'm assuming because I got no warnings and I did more than 2 steps this is better. To be honest I dont have a smart way of how the above happened. I used my newer laptop, installed all the astro software and it just seemed to work straight out of the blocks. I'm not complaining.
  6. Wow. Would you believe it but I actually just realised of the back of your comment that I had typo'd the coords wrong into eqascom It might not be causing me to calibrate phd2 with 2 steps, but it certainly wont be helping my situation to have it wrong in there. Best,
  7. Hi, It's a silly question in many ways, but I wanted to know why it works. Why can you polar align with your guide scope attaced to your OTA even if its not pointing at the exact same thing as your main OTA? I would have thought that you would only be able to PA with your main OTA on your mount. Thanks,
  8. Hi, I'm sure I must be doing something simple quite wrong, but I can't seem to figure out what the problem is. The problem is that when running a calibration routine with PHD2 it finishes after completing just 2 steps East, west, north and south. Instead of taking the recommended 12. What this means is that I can't guide at all using PHD2, which is really stopping me from taking long exposures. To date I have tried reinstalling PHD2, following most of the best practice guide, I have changed the RA side reel rate in EQASCOM regardless of whether I use 0.1 or 0.9 it always does a 2 step calibration and even went as far as reinstalling windows completely. Nothing has worked. When calibrating I try and keep the DEC to around 20 or below, its hard where I live to get to 0, furthermore I am polar aligning fine using sharpcap so PA is usually rated good or excellent depending on my patience. Here are some screenshots to show what I have going on in the settings. Also, I have attached some log files from last night. They don't show much but do show that its calibrating in 2 steps. Equipment wise: EQ6-Pro mount ZWO 120 mm guide cam Evoguide 50 ED guide scope Thanks, PHD2_GuideLog_2019-10-09_231849.txt
  9. Yeah Its what got me to.where I am. It's a really great book and explains things so well.
  10. Hi, I'd like to buy some astrophotography books. I dont mind too much what the book is, just so long as it's good and can teach me about the fine art a little bit more. In particular any books related to pre and post processing, for example the new astro zone system. I wouldn't mind if its book related to capture, but like I said more interested in the processing part. If you are not keen to sell, I'd also be happy to discuss borrowing. Thanks,
  11. Here is a stacked version of the image before any processing. m51_01092019.fit
  12. Thanks. I do feel proud. I was showing some people in the office today and there was a bit of head scratching going on when people were getting their heads around how it was possible to get picture of a galaxy. I was more than happy to explain. I'll try make my life easier and focus in on something a little easier next time. Thanks for that incredibly insightful advice Vlaiv. There's a lot to chew through with your post, but I'm going to work through it. I like the idea of switching to GIMP, it seems very powerful and that post you shared seems very helpful. I had used some flats in the pre processing, however I think that the dust particle in the equipment must be new. I'll share the stacked .fit file when I get back home and see if there was more that can be pulled out from the data.
  13. I have some questions on post processing. How do I get rid of that circular thing in the bottom left section of the image. Its quite dark but it's there. Theres also a blue squiggle near the bottom right of the galaxy, how do I get rid of that? I dont think it would have dark subtracted because it was in one of my lights. Where do you guys think is the best place to finish off an image, I was using nebulosity and lightroom. I didn't mind nebulosity too much, but with light room I had to convert the .fit file to .jpg before doing a histogram stretch etc. On the histogram stretch is there some material that explains it well? Perhaps a book that's dedicated to post processing astro images. Colour, I shoot using a colour camera, because I had thought that it would mean my images would look like the ones NASA Hubble telescope produces with all that vibrancy. My images started with a sickly glow that I could only reduce slightly. What's the best way to bring out colour in an image. How do I make the background black? Thanks for the feedback.
  14. Thank you. I'll look into the mask. I think I saw that FLO are selling some reasonably priced ones. Although it would be cool to 3D print one of my own. Thanks. Any suggestions on an easier target?
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