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Found 34 results

  1. Hi, I bought my first telescope, SW 150pds about 6 months ago with the purpose of astroimaging "when i feel ready". So far ive used my Nikon D810 for that, and I'm now planning on taking the step buying my first AP camera. My targets would be DSO's, and not planetary. I want a mono-camera, not color. I want to get away with a very good camera to a reasonable price (wouldn't we all...) and in this regard I've been drooling on the ZWO ASI 1600MM Mono for some time. The price for it is in the upper part of my budget, but I'm willing to if its worth it. I've seen from other treads that sensor-size isn't everything, and dynamic range and gain and all is just as important, but i have trouble understanding it all 100% when it's all new to me, but in my experience i am a practical person who learns things much better and faster with the gear in my hand. So without getting to technical, and staying as objective as possible - please help me with; 1. Is this a good camera to go for? 2. It's sold with options of filters 1.25", 31mm or 36mm - Why these options, and what determines what i would choose? 3. Would you go for another camera in this price range, and why? - Or to rephrase it a bit; If you were in my shoes, which camera would you og for? I'd appreciate any help:) I might add, that i understand that with my lack of experience, buying a mono-camera with filters and all might seem premature, but for some strange reason. I enjoy these "way over my head"-projects and figuring out things as time goes - I just need some guiding in the right direction.
  2. Hi all, Since a few days, I'm the proud owner of the asi1600 Pro. Performed some first tests, see: https://youtu.be/hHJBbpNoi2I I used SGP Pro to test cooling and dark frames (2m and 5m) on unity gain settings. Is it ok to use unity gain (139) setting or should I use high dynamic range? Also, this is my first mono. Do I need to take flats/bias frames for each filter separately? And how could I stack either broadband or narrowband images? I'm used to deep sky stacker. Cheers, Wido
  3. Uncooled ZWO ASI178MC camera
  4. For sale is my used for 10mins ASI120MC-S, this is the new USB3 colour model, cost me £228 from telescope house. It is in as new condition, i used it for 10mins with sharpcap but have decided to stick with my DSLR, i just feel more comfortable with what i know. Bargain (new as) £190 includes free special delivery next day by 1pm. Save yourself £40 odd and buy mine instead. Thanks.
  5. Hey fellas I have a 1600mm cooled version. I was spending Last couple of nights in field trying to do some AP, but the camera didn't work. Everything seems to be ok. I have temperature's info, the 120mm data comes in flawlessly, EFW works just fine. But when camera finishes the exposure it hangs on downloading. I reduced usb traffic, no luck. I switched programs, sharpcap, SGP, nebulosity and even maxim-dl. I switched cables, and again no luck. I took my rig home, set up evertything and camera works just fine. Everything is ok. I took 40, 4 min frames, not a single problem. Then I took it out last night, tried to capture, and again it fails to download and hangs on downloading. It is getting really frustrating. Could you please help me out? Regards, Rez
  6. ZWO provides you inside the box of the ASI1600 a couple of washer to be used between the camera body and the filter wheel so everything keep it's proper orthogonal alignment. In my specific case, when using the ZWO EFW 8 slots, I needed a few more spacer millimeters between the camera's body and the filter wheel, so I decided to print them. You've got a couple of sizes to download: 0.25mm 0.50mm 0.65mm 1.00mm Download the models from Thing 2426248.
  7. From the album: DSO Imaging

    M52 20 x 3 min guided subs 10 each flat, bias and darks
  8. Having a clear out to fund a feather touch microfocuser for my edge. Baader diamond track SCT (lovely but a bit too heavy ) £180 2 months old , as new.-----Sold elsewhere --------------------------- ZWO asi120MC £80--------------------------------------------Sold to charl, Many thanks. William optics 2" extender £18 --------------------------Sold to Adrian, Many thanks . FLO premium Cheshire £18-------------------------------Sold to Ultramol , Many thanks ----------- Postage £6 each item PayPal / cash meet up around M25 / 127 area.
  9. I used my ZWO ADC a couple of nights ago for the first time, well the first time 'properly'. However, the end result is an image with lines across it. Anyone any idea what is causing this? I wasn't able to properly align the colours so captured a video anyway so maybe that is a possibility? Thanks Colin
  10. Hi guys, I am after a camera for high-resolution imaging of our Moon. I would like to try planetary imaging as well but Moon is a priority. Looking at the prices it's pretty much between ZWO and Imaging Source brands. The telescope that will be used with the camera is a C9.25 f10. Any advice is appreciated. Cheers.
  11. Apologies for asking a question that must have been asked a thosand times before - but where can I find a simple step by step guide to capturing and processing a planetary image? The bright shiny red ZWO camera arrived today , and I have got it talking to FireCapture on the laptop, and even making a short movie. The movie is monochrome (the camera label assures me it's colour) but I mustn't quibble. But then what happens? Does SharpCap sort and stack the frames? I crave simplicity, and (preferably) written answers (on one side of a postcard). Can anyone point me in the right direction?
  12. Hi I have recently purchased a ZWO ASI120MC-S webcam from FLO. I wanted to try it the other night so I decided to get some test images for the moon. I was using Sharpcap for this. I manged to get the video and was using Autostakkert to stack it. On the final stacked image I can see that there are some strange vertical lines. I have attached a picture of that. There is also a zoomed in image of a region and I can see some small squares almost resembling the pixels on the sensor. Below are my capture settings as given by SharpCap. [ZWO ASI120MC-S] Debayer Preview=On Pan=0 Tilt=0 Output Format=AVI files (*.avi) Binning=1 Capture Area=1280x960 Colour Space=RAW8 Temperature=19.2 High Speed Mode=Off Overclock=0 Turbo USB=86(Auto) Flip=Both Frame Rate Limit=60 fps Gain=50(Auto) Exposure=0.001993 Timestamp Frames=Off White Bal (B)=95 White Bal (R)=52 Brightness=0 Auto Exp Max Gain=50 Auto Exp Max Exp M S=30000 Auto Exp Target Brightness=100 Mono Bin=Off Apply Flat=None Subtract Dark=None #Black Point Display Black Point=0 #MidTone Point Display MidTone Point=0.5 #White Point Display White Point=1 TimeStamp=2018-06-25T23:13:22.6772909Z SharpCapVersion=3.1.5214.0 For Autostakkert (v2.6.8 ) I was not doing anything fancy. Pressed analyze and then used 50% of the frames to stack. Used 200 as the AP size. Also, had the drizzle as 1.5x My camera was mounted to a skywatcher 200pds and HEQ5 mount. I am failing to understand what is going wrong here. Is the camera a problem or stacking is an issue ? Please let me know if there is any more information that you need. Thanks and Regards, Yogesh moon_25062018_1min_00_13_20_g4_ap35_Drizzle15.tif moon_25062018_1min_00_13_20_g4_ap35_Drizzle15_ZOOM.tif
  13. I am imaging with a ZWO 178mc-cooled and am having trouble removing amp glow. I am using darks in the same conditions as lights and stacking and imaging with SharpCap. I am left with a image looking like below. No matter what I do I seem to be always left with this residual amp glow signature, Any ideas out there? Rich
  14. See pdf attached ZWO v Omegon ADC.pdf
  15. 90min HII, 72min [NII], and 80min [OIII] in 2 min subs with the 80mm f/4.4 and ASI1600 MMC camera through 3nm Astrodons. Piggy backed on the 130 f/7 mounted on the DDM60 and encoder guided. Sigma Add stacking in AA5, then gradient removal, alignment and Trichromy with [NII] mapped to Red, HII to Green, and [OIII] to Blue, following the Hubble Palette. Multiple Histogram Stretches, and a Low Pass filter to get rid of some of the noise. The RGB stack needed a serious crop as the [OIII] subs were at a steep angle to the other data, which is a pity as I can see plenty of outlying detail in the individual stacks. I'm not taking this particular image any further as the data is too short. I've already got another 2 hours of HII in 5 min subs which I'll stack and add to the existing HII stack. The [OIII] I think I'll bin as it's so badly skewed, I'll try to replace it with 5 min subs properly aligned. The [NII] is OK as it stands, but I'll try to add to it. When I'll be able to get more data is a moot point, as the weather here has been dire. There *may* be a couple of windows coming up, but I'm not counting on them.
  16. Hey guys I started this zwo 1600 problem topic yesterday, but I couldn't get the answer. I have found that my problem is temperature related. when the sensor chamber drops below zero the download hangs. Sorry for the new topic but i am getting really tired of this. Could you please help me out?
  17. Before I start running my fully automated observatory from a remote location, it is useful to know what the weather conditions are like at the observatory site and an all sky camera is a great way of seeing what is going on in conjunction with my AAG CloudWatcher that 'measures' the weather conditions. Unfortunately, commercial all sky cameras have a pretty hefty price tag and I had a very limited budget for this project so I decided to make my own. The camera is the easy part and the excellent ZWO ASI 120mm was an obvious choice - it even comes with a 150° wide angle lens. However, the key to a reliable all sky camera is the enclosure it operates in. A camera and lens combination like the ZWO will work very well on its own for this purpose right up until the dew forms on the lens or even worse, it starts to rain so a waterproof enclosure with its own heating system is a prerequisite. Before I even started to think about the enclosure itself, I gave a lot of consideration to the heating aspect. The solution was sitting in my bits and pieces drawer - the components that I'd bought in a couple of years ago to make a dew-band for my 28mm camera lens when I wanted to capture a meteor shower! I never did make the dew-band but the Nichrome wire and pulse width modulation (PWM) power supply were perfect for this project. I calculated that I would need up 8 watts of heat for a 'de-frost' but a lower output for general use. With the heater resolved, I looked around for a suitable transparent dome for the enclosure and found a 100mm diameter dome for under £10.00 on Ebay. All I needed then was a suitable box to match the total width of the dome and again, Ebay came to the rescue. Awful skies mean that I have used it very little but I have enjoyed making time lapse videos of the night sky and I ended up buying a fisheye lens for the camera to give me a full 180° view. So here's the camera enclosure in all its glory Click here to view my first light timelapse video
  18. With so little imaging time recently and with the bright moon appearing on the first night in ages that I could get out, I thought it was about time I tried some planetary imaging. I've had a ZWOASI120MM for about 6 months and haven't used it for anything other than guiding up to now, so thought I would have a play. Took several videos of the moon with 10,000 frames and 640x480 resolution and then processed via PIPP/Auto Stakkert/Registax and Photoshop. The results I was quite pleased with. Some blur and I need to practice more with the camera/processing but, for first efforts, I was quite happy. Seeing wasn't great - it was a bit like filming the moon's reflection in a puddle - so happy with how they came out. Will try upping the resolution a bit for future goes - is there an optimum people use? I also pointed it at Jupiter really quickly and, although it is a bit rubbish, I was glad that the GRS showed up - so more work to do there, but preferably on a night where the seeing is better. Jupiter was quite low down when I shot it, so the atmosphere really didn't help. Anyway, glad I had a go as it gives me something to play around with on future nights when the moon is bright.
  19. Hello there StarGazers or shall I say CloudGazers! Hahahaha! I'm sorting out an auto guiding rig for when the clouds vanish eventually. I'm using the Raspberry PI Model 2 with Lin_guider. I'm after either the following CCD's: QHY5L-II Mono or ZWO ASL120MM Mono Let me know if you have any spare or have recently upgraded. I was going to go with an Altair Astro mono GPCAM but currently there is no support from lin_guider or Linux drivers as of yet. Thanks all!
  20. Hi all, I'm back again still searching for the 'ideal' camera for my setup. My scope is a CPC925 & I know that I'll mainly be limited to Lunar, Solar & Planetary imaging with perhaps dipping my toe into the Planetary Nebula & much smaller DSO work. I've had many ups & downs in trying to get around to my camera purchase, I did hit the buy button on a ASI178 a couple of weeks ago: but then cancelled this sale because once I had done more research I was more confused & talked myself out of the sale. I then thought the ASI174 was the camera for me because through many hours of trawling forums & using various CCD Calculators I found that because my scope has such a large FL I need a camera with larger pixel size as to not over-sample. I promptly placed an order on Amazon for this camera as there was a seller selling a used/open box one for a discount price of £389 bargain - anyway this turned out to be a scam. Backwards & forwards with Amazon, I eventually got the order cancelled before money left my account. Using FLO's CCD Suitability calc: http://astronomy.tools/calculators/ccd_suitability with my scope at full FL & OK seeing set at 2-4", I need a pixel size of 7.6 just to reach the lower part of the resolution scale 0.67-2" If I enter that I'll be using my f6.3 reducer into the calculator then I am well into the green if using ASI174, a little under with the ASI120 & way,way under with the ASI178. Now I'm wondering whether these calculations are really there for the likes of solely DSO users where star size is apparent, does this same calculation lend itself to Planetary imaging where over-sampled bloated stars are not an issue as they are not apparent in the images? I have been looking at 3 cameras: ASI120 - pixel size 3.75 ASI178 - pixel size 2.4 ASI174 - pixel size 5.86 all seem to have their merits & issues. Because I'll primarily be doing Solar System work & because I've seen a number of other images obtained with my particular scope where barlows are used to image Jupiter or Saturn say, I have again used the above calc with each camera & put in 2x & 3x barlows to see the comparison. Readings are in "/pixel & x2 barlow followed by x3 barlow. ASI120 - 0.16, 0.11 ASI178 - 0.11, 0.07 ASI174 - 0.26, 0.17 All note that these readings will be OK for high MAG solar system work. Now I wanted to check the FOV, so using: http://www.12dstring.me.uk/fovcalc.php with Jupiter as a target I set about entering some details. First I decided on a common resolution, not easy as all three camera have slight variation ADC10, 12 & 14 but I did keep the binning to just 1x1. ASI120 at 320x240 with x2 barlow gave a FOV of 0.88' x 0.66' & fills the screen. ASI178 at 320x240 with x2 barlow gave a FOV of 0.56' x 0.42' but this over filled the screen, I reduced to x1.5 barlow to get a good full screen & FOV became 0.75' x 0.56' ASI174 at 320x240 with x2 barlow gave a FOV of 1.37' x 1.03' but this was a lot smaller than the previous two tests, I was able to push to a x3.5 barlow to fill the screen & got FOV of 0.78' x 0.59' So yes, I can see a relationship with pixel size and FOV but I'm thinking that having to push the 174 up with barlows to achieve similar result as the 120 & 178 is surely detrimental in terms of FL & f ratio, isn't it? If it isn't, am I getting a better an image using the 174 this way as opposed to the 178 at a reduced barlow? The it's FPS... ASI120 at 320x240 12bit ADC - 254fps ASI178 at 320x240 10bit ADC - 479fps ASI174 at 320x240 10bit ADC -740fps I know there's no 10bit ADC on the ASI120 so direct comparison is difficult but it's probably still going to be less than the ASI178 anyway. So, FPS or rather high FPS is the way to go in terms of getting stable images from hundreds captured, for that then it's the 174. All 3 cameras are USB3, no choice there then. The 178 has a rolling shutter, I cannot find info on the 120 but I suspect that it is also a rolling shutter. The 174 has a global shutter. From my research, global shutters are superior to rolling shutters as they stop motion blur or smearing of an image, so to this then it's another vote for the 174. This is as far as I have got and now need other users input. Which camera should I go for? Thanks Kirk
  21. Thought I'd have a bit of a clear out, I never used this more than half a dozen times, I had intended to use it in a dual mode, guide and planetary camera but never got around to buying a planetary telescope. I have the original box , st4 cable, usb 1.8m cable & the 11/4 nose adapter.. Looking for offers over £120 I believe these are going up in price soon because of the current exchange rate. Here is the kit for sale along with the wide field fish eye ( with camera ) https://www.firstlightoptics.com/zwo-cameras/zwo-asi120mm-usb-2-mono-camera.html I will take some pictures of the actual camera when I get home later tonight.
  22. Aenima

    Bi-colour NGC7000 Wall

    From the album: CCD venture

    A h-alpha and OIII shot of the Wall section of NGC7000 aka north america nebula. Processed to resemble the hubble palette colour scheme. ED80 - ATK16HR - Ha clip filter - EQ6 - finderguider 9x50mm PhD2 - photoshop - DSS.
  23. Setting up all the software on my win10 laptop and getting things to talk to one another is a nightmare. I'm starting a new thread, so I can post all the problems I am having, one at a time, so issues don't get confused. This will also hopefully help anyone coming to similar situations later, as the problems and answers will not be interlaced. First issue: APT does not detect ZWO camera. I have got the camera (ZWO) drivers installed and sharpcap can see it and will connect to it properly. However, when I try to connect the camera in APT, the only CCD options it gives me are SBIG (which it isn't), QSI (which it isn't) and ASCOM. Now it shouldn't need to use an ascom driver, because the proper driver is installed, but I give it a go anyway, and this just offers me 2 simulators and 3 QHY cameras (I have one qhy driver installed for the guidecam .... I'll get to that later!). I have disconnected both the filterwheel and guide camera from the camera hub, so they cannot be interefering with the process. I am at a total loss ... any suggestions? Thanks.
  24. Hi I have a Skywatcher 200PDS. I managed to get images of saturn, jupiter with the telescope and the ASI120MC-S camera. However, to get a bit more magnified image of these planets I got myself a Barlow Tele Vue 3x and Revelation 5x. I am having trouble with this setup and really disappointed now. I am not able to achieve focus with any of these barlows using my planetary camera. I have added extension etc. but no luck whatsover. I just see a blank black video preview in SharpCap. I have seen people using the same setup and getting good images out of those. Any help highly appreciated. Thanks and Regards, Yogesh
  25. Hi folks, thought I'd post here as more people here seem to be using the Live Stacking feature of SharpCap now. SharpCap - if you haven't encountered it before - is a free Astro-focused capture application for Windows. SharpCap includes support for a wide range of cameras - including QHY, ZWO, Basler, QHY, Webcams, Frame Grabbers, ASCOM and others. Any camera that SharpCap supports can be used in live stacking mode, although to get decent results you will need to be able to set exposure lengths of about 1s or more. Live Stacking includes an alignment option (on by default) that will correct for drift and field rotation in each new frame as it is stacked. Alignment depends on being able to detect at least 3 stars in each frame. Additionally you can filter incoming frames based on a FWHM measurement of the stars detected, allowing frames with better seeing conditions to be stacked and worse frames discarded. There are simple functions allowing the histogram of the stacked image to be stretched for display and the stack can be saved either 'as seen' with the stretch applied in PNG format or in FITS format with no stretch applied for later post-processing. SharpCap also has an embedded scripting language which allows simple programs to be written that will automate a capture session - some users over on Cloudy Nights have been using this facility to automatically stack a target for say 30 minutes then move the mount to point at a new target and start stacking that. SharpCap 2.9 is currently in beta and will contain improvements to the live stacking features including an easier-to-use histogram stretch function, more star detection options for alignment and automatically remembering most stack related options. However, if you prefer to avoid beta software, feel free to use SharpCap 2.8 instead. Just as a taster, here is an M81 I produced in 30 minutes of 4s exposures with the ASI1600MM-Cool. This was really just a test stack - taken on first-light with the camera, testing a new version of SharpCap and with a whole bunch of other things in my setup changed - I'm sure it's possible to do better when hurrying a little less! I'd love to hear any feedback people have on how to improve the live stacking feature - and see any images you capture with it! cheers, Robin PS. For about the first 10 minutes of stacking I had left the mount accidentally on Lunar tracking rate having used the moon earlier to sort out focus and align the finder scope. The alignment feature took care of this quite happily and I didn't even notice until I spotted a little line of hot pixels building up due to the drift.
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