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Everything posted by 5haan_A

  1. Im looking forward to it, also I just had another look at that sub and I do believe there is something to be said for black and white images. Cheers mate. I will look into this for sure. I have been looking into an OAG and it is starting to make more and more sense to me. Still though you can see from the 10 minute sub that the guiding is not bad as it is for the moment. We will see if any flexure or other issues start cropping up.
  2. So the clouds finally passed last night which gave me a chance to finally test out my new scope. It has been almost a month since I bought this scope. The weather has been partly to blame for the long delay in getting a first light, and also a lot of the additional accessories have taken a while to come. For example, this scope was ordered brand new, and it didn't come with a focuser. Apparently the focuser that initially came supplied was pretty rubbish so the manufacturer thought to get rid otherwise it might detract from what is otherwise a nice product. Once some of the accessories came it was time to put it all together. Here's how it looks on its mount. I still haven't had a chance to collimate the scope as I am waiting for a laser to get delivered and a focuser tube tilt adjuster. I have heard that collimating an RC is fun and games so lots to look forward to! I am mainly going to be using this scope to image galaxies and other slightly smaller DSOs, the camera I am using for the moment is the ZWo 1600 pro. I had an interesting discussion on the right kind of scope for the job and the camera to use, see below. Basically in summary: given that the focal length of this scope with a reducer is 1088mm we need to bin at 2x2 to reduce sampling issues, guiding needs to be particularly good and I decided that this scope, TS-Optics 8" f/8 Ritchey-Chretien, was going to work for me. As I was setting up last night, I noticed that balance was completely off in Dec. I am going to need to order a longer vixen bar or get some weights to improve it. Set up was otherwise quite straightforward. After a lot of playing around and fiddling I was able to take some basic photos to show you. They are nothing special and my focus won't be 100% because I was mainly focusing by eye, and I haven't tried collimating the scope yet! This was more about getting a feel for what else I might need to think about, and addressing any problems I might have. First up we have M13. 10 x 90 seconds of LRGB I calibrated with some darks, but no flats, or dark flats. In photoshop I only quickly breezed through some levels stretches. I thought it would be cool to compare this to a single light frame taken with a Skywatcher Esprit 100, just to see the FOV difference. Finally after having enough of a play around with M13 I wanted to see what the bubble nebula might look like through this scope. Here is a single 10 minute frame taken with a H-alpha filter. I wasn't disappointed at all, and now I am really looking forward to collecting more data on this in the future. Overall, I am really looking forward to getting this scope in action more. There's plenty to look forward to.
  3. Hasta la vista Green i think. Thats the one I have anyway. Thanks for the comments guys I'm really pleased with how this turned out. I feel like I'm progressing in terms of what I know now and can do. This type of image 2 years ago was so far away from my capabilities.
  4. Hi, A couple of months back I drove down to Spain from the UK, with rig boxed up in the boot ofc. My mount packed in half way through the trip, so it was a real bummer, but I did manage to have a fairly good go at imaging the lagoon nebula. For me it was the first time properly using my new ZWO 1600 pro and a narrowband filter set. I have to say I am really pleased with the results that one can get. The image was taken through an Esprit 100, mounted on an EQ6 pro. The camera used was a ZWO 1600 pro. 12 x 600 seconds H 12 x 600 seconds O 10 x 600 seconds S I used the Hubble pallete, and edited in Photoshop. This one was fun in Photoshop because there is a lot going on in the image. I still haven't quite got round how to get rid of the purple stars. I had intended to take some RGB stars real quick whilst I was out there, but the mount packing stopped me doing that, so I was looking at ways to change the purple stars in post processing but so far I couldn't get it to work right. Best wishes, Shaan
  5. Nice, just placed an order. Soon to be a member of the RC club. What swayed me in the end was the FOV, the fact I won't have to worry about mirror flop and that NASA used an RC design for the hubble telescope. Now its time to add on the various accessories, which will no doubt come to near abouts what I paid for the scope. Best,
  6. Lovely that's pretty much the FOV that I am looking for. How do you find collimating the RC is there an easy method? I know what you mean about accessories, the good thing is that by going for this scope I do have more budget left to invest in the right accessories. Thanks,
  7. Lots to think about! Thanks Vlaiv for the explanation it was insightful enough for me to come to some initial conclusions. Firstly that I am not going to go for a massively long focal length just for the sake of it. Secondly that I will bin, I had never considered binning and always kind of viewed it as something that people do when they are in a rush, but it makes a lot of sense especially when trying to reduce the amount of sampling. Also thanks for the guys giving me their thoughts on SCTs, the celestron edge was a real front runner in my list but after the comments from you guys I think I'd prefer to make my life easier not harder. With all that being said, I have done some research and have identified two potential candidates for a longer focal length scope. Option 1 is to go with the refractor Explore Scientific ED 127 £1330 (RVO) https://www.rothervalleyoptics.co.uk/explore-scientific-ed-apo-127mm-f75-aluminium-essential-triplet-refractor-ota.html Option 2 is to go with this RC TS-Optics 8" f/8 Ritchey-Chretien Astrograph with Carbon Fiber Tube https://www.365astronomy.com/ts-optics-8-f-8-ritchey-chretien-astrograph-with-carbon-fiber-tube.html I'd bin at 2x as it's got a focal length of 1624 mm. Here is the FOC calculator I put in a 10 inch version of option 2 as well. As you can see the difference isn't massive considering the £1500 and nearly 10 kg weight difference. What do you guys think? I am tending towards the RC as I think it offers a drastically different alternative to what I currently have in the locker.
  8. This is something to definitely consider, and also frustrating as I have only recently switched to a ZWO 1600 thinking that it would fit for most of what I want to do for now. Is there a more suited camera for longer focal lengths? The Explore scientific was high on my list, any suggestions on a RC OTA? This scope was on my radar as well, perhaps something to consider? https://www.365astronomy.com/sharpstar-20032pnt-200mm-super-fast-f-3.2-paraboloid-newtonian-reflector-telescope-red.html It does have a built in reducer that brings the focal length down to 640. Also I have heard good stuff about the build quality. Best,
  9. Hi Guys, I have that equipment itch again and I'm in the market again to buy a new telescope to use for imaging. I would most likely mount it on my EQ6R mount so weight wise there are lots of options. I am looking to fill a gap in my equipment and get something with a longer focal length to take images of galaxies. Currently I have an Esprit 100 and redcat so wide and wider fields of view are covered, now it's time to get up close and personal. I would be using the telescope with a ZWO 1600 and filter wheel. I have made a shortlist, with some of my pros and cons by each scope. Celestron Edge HD 9.25 £2450 (FLO) https://www.firstlightoptics.com/edge-hd-series/celestron-edge-hd-series.html Pros Good focal length Tried and tested (lots of advice out there from other owners) Cons Top of my budget (All in including accessories is around £3000) Not sure I like fat looking stars (I love the crisp images you get with refractors) Cooling time Explore Scientific ED 127 £1330 (RVO) https://www.rothervalleyoptics.co.uk/explore-scientific-ed-apo-127mm-f75-aluminium-essential-triplet-refractor-ota.html Pros I like the star shape and crisp images Bottom end of my budget leaves me change to spend elsewhere Cons Focal length is not as much as the other options, plus with a reducer it's even less. However, it is still much more than what I have currently. Apparently the length of the OTA can cause issues with tripod legs Orion Optics Newtonian 350/1600 £2210 (Astroshop) https://www.astroshop.eu/telescopes/orion-optics-uk-telescope-n-350-1600-vx14-ota/p,57573#tab_bar_1_select Pros Good focal length Don't mind the star shape Cons Collimation Weight is heavy at 20 kgs (I'd be pushing my mount pretty much to the limit) So what are your thoughts, I'd be happy with any of those three, but I'd be interested to hear any other ideas and suggestions. My all in budget is around £3,000 so there are plenty of really great options. As mentioned this scope is going to image galaxies so focal length is important. Thanks,
  10. Hi can the cooling unit be removed or is it properly attached? Best,
  11. In Yorkshire too. The weather has been horrible for anything astro related recently. Fingers crossed we get a glimpse tonight.
  12. Yep turned out it was. I put in a new mother board and it now switches on im going to check to see that it slews properly later on this evening. I cant understand how a motherboard in an otherwise newish mount could blow. Im going to pin the blame on these really small ants that used to climb up on my gear in spain. All I can think is that one must have climbed in and become part of the circuitry. Its a stab in the dark for sure! Best,
  13. I just got back from Spain and checked. There is indeed a steady supply of power coming out from the mount end of the lead. Which has left me scratching my head even more now. I have ordered a new Mother board and will now see if I can get it working using that.
  14. I'll try think of a way of doing this, perhaps I can pop into town and buy a multimeter from a DIY shop as well. However i do think that the power cable is working because the red LED light near the on cigarette socket end of the wire does switch on.
  15. Here is a picture of a motherboard does it look damaged in anyway? As I mentioned I had a cursory look, and couldn't spot anything but im not an expert.
  16. Can heat cause any issues with the mount? I leave the rig set up outdoors in Spain. It is covered, but I'm wondering if that might have caused an issue. Also the day that the mount packed in the weather was very humid. To the point that the cover was damp in some places. Again I wouldn't have through this would be an issue because these mounts are pretty robust from my experience with them.
  17. I'll have to buy a multimeter because I left mine in the UK. Re polarity, I dont think its an issue as all my other electronics are working fine like the focuser and camera cooling.
  18. Hi Guys, Very annoyingly my mount has packed in and I am not sure why. The red light won't switch on and I am at a loss as to why that would be the case, it's been working perfectly fine all week. As anyone had any similar problems with this mount? I power the Sky watcher Eq6 R pro mount with a leisure battery I had purchased from Halfords. The battery is currently charged and is outputting around 13 volts. I have tried wiggling around where you connect in the power supply to the mount, but there doesn't seem to be any issue there. I know that the cigarette lighter socket connector (the one that comes with the mount) is working because the red LED light is on. I also know that the mount does get some power because I hear that click sound you get after you turn on the mount, however this is as good as it gets because after this there is no response from the mount. The red LED isn't switching on and I can't connect to it from my laptop. I just had a cursory look at the mother board and couldn't see any obvious burn or indication that it is damaged, but I am not an electronics expert by any means so can't say with certainty that it is fine. The most annoying thing about this all is that I drove the mount all the way to Spain from the UK to make the most of furlough and darker nights, so any solution that involves ordering a new part warranty etc is out of reach for the next 10 days or so. Is there any hope?
  19. Great idea. That's some good thinking outside the box Thanks,
  20. Actually to be fair the crop doesn't need to be so severe, I reckon I can keep the dusty parts and still cut out the black parts of the image.
  21. Ahh, I was hoping you wouldn't say that As you can see from this side by side comparison that sort of a crop would end up cutting out some really nice looking areas where the dust is. Still though if this is the only way to get something then I best take my medicine and try better next time. Best,
  22. Hi guys, I got round to processing some narrow band images for the first time and have encountered a little problems in DSS. Basically I had captured H O and S data on the lagoon nebula on separate nights. Silly old me I had not thought about framing too much when I was capturing the data. I have used a good Halpha light frame as a reference frame in DSS and have begun to stack the H O S light frames separately in three individual stacks. When I had stacked my O data this is what I saw. Clearly my H reference reference frame is at odds with my O stacked data. How much of a problem is this? I anticipate that when I combine the channels in photoshop I am going to be with parts of the image without any data in say the blue channel if I mapped O to that. So what do I do about this, and whats the best method for trying to make sure that this doesn't happen again? In hindsight I could have started off better when originally imaging with my scope, it does have the ability to rotate, but I haven't ever thought to use it, and I haven't given framing too much thought, because I always assumed that If you goto to the same point in the sky using software it would goto and everything would be hunky dory. Best,
  23. Hi I recently switched to a mono cam and filter wheel, and now I feel like I have an abundance of choices to make and not much idea on why I should make certain choices and what combinations of filter data I can combine in one image. So far I know that RGB is basically what my old osc cam would do so that filter combo seems pretty straight forward. Then there's SHO, good for nebulas, I'm currently taking an SHO image of the lagoon nebula that is shaping up nicely. What would happen to the SHO image if I added some data captured using an L filter? And how would I go about doing this? But then there's stuff like LRGB a combination im not sure what it gives but I have seen people use it really nicely. Is L added as a luminance layer in photoshop? Then there's HaRGB again I assume that you can add it in as a lumince layer in photoshop? Are there other combinations that are common practice and how do you pull them all together? For example at the moment I am working on the western veil nebula. I have captured some decent O and Ha data, but I would like some RGB in as well to get some natural star colour in there, but I am not sure on how to add the RGB data in. I love that the mono cam and filter wheel has given me all these options, but I am not sure how best to utilise them. Best,
  24. Thanks for the input. It sounds like it is tough to get right and fiddly no matter what. I settled on method that seems to yield some success. It might not be pretty but it does work. What I do is eyeball approximately where the target is and move my mount manually to that position. I then take a series of single frames, around 5 second exposures and feed them in to astrometry.net. This gives me an exact position of where I am. I use this information plus sky safari to start gradually making my way over to the target with manual adjustments. Once in place I pray that PA is still good and star shooting. Its not as exact science as what I would want but still it helps me get some results. Thanks,
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