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About rockinrome

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  1. Hi @FarAndBeyond I have recently created my own battery box that holds 10x1.2V 4000mAh rechargable C type batteries. All it needed was a bit of soldering to get them in series and the power adapter end. Drawing maximum current (approx. 3A) it should last about 1.5 hours on full charge. All the best. MJ.
  2. Using same mount with 12V 3A for ages now, early on used 12V 1A (old EQ3-2 power adapter) - seemed OK, but I would err on larger mount more power ...... so 3A. MJ
  3. Hello! To start I would use the eyepiece and then connect the camera afterwards. Use a Bhatinov mask to obtain exact focus - a must for astro photography. So... 1. Polar align 2. Mount and balance scope with eyepiece (without Bhatinov mask) 3. Do star-align, making sure the last star you go to is "roughly" in the area of your image target (Mount will start to track at this stage) 4. CAREFULLY remove eyepiece and attach the camera and use the last align star with the Bhatinov mask to focus the camera. Using Live View is helpful, but I would just take (say) a 10 second exposure at ISO3200. 5. Carefully adjust focus to obtain the tell-tale diffraction spikes 6. Remove Bhatinov mask and slew to image target 7. Do a test exposure like in (4) to make sure the image target is framed correctly. 8. Make a brew 9. Start Imaging Clear skies MJ
  4. Sorry, I got a little ahead of myself and was thinking about it in terms of what would be obtained as an image as opposed to simply looking at it at the eyepiece. So, image would *look* bigger from camera because of the 1.6x crop factor. Hope this now actually helps you rather than confusing the issue. Please see my later replies to posts above to clarify the answer ......... I'll get my coat .........
  5. Hi. This is what I *thought* was being asked .....
  6. Sorry, this is what I assumed the question was relating too. I know you can't magically increase a scopes' focal length ........ However, the sensor does have a bearing on the image obtained as opposed to normal viewing.
  7. Focal length is the same, Field of View changes .....
  8. Thank you all for the input. It's funny how talking about a problem takes you down roads which you don't think of as an individual. Anyway. I took the first sub and streeeeeeeeeeeetched it to hell in GIMP to be quick and dirty and there is loads of data in there (see attachment). Bloody Moon!!!!! Thanks again and clear (moon less) skies ... MJ
  9. So, just checked my light subs - I may have found the culprit, but need opinion .... It's that massive great lump of rock in the sky that reflects sunlight back to Earth *I think* ... As I scroll through the 30 images they become lighter and lighter. I do not detect any cloud in the frames although some later images appear more noisey than others. Thoughts? Thanks, MJ
  10. Hi Carole I will check the subs first I think - don't wanna give you all crap data from the outset!! Thank you MJ
  11. Ahhh right .... gotcha ..... I will upload when I get home then. Thank you.
  12. Thanks Steve, now then, you could be onto something here...... I did check a sample of the images, BUT there was some high cloud around at certain times all night which I thought I had avoided as it drifted..... may be that is the culprit ...... MJ
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