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Mr niall

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About Mr niall

  • Rank
    Proto Star

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Staffs
  1. Even more refractor galaxies . . . M51

    Amazing! Great shot
  2. Well - I don’t expect this to be seriously considered, however this is my first astrophotography attempt and it’s just great to be part of the fun! details are Canon 1300d f5.6 iso 1600 canon ef75-300 @ 130mm on star adventurer 44 x 30 sec lights 19 x 30 sec darks (none of the other types, still figuring out what they are! give me a chance! ) stacked in DSS edited in lightroom
  3. I had a Mak 127 for a while - they’re great on DSO’s - especially on globular and open clusters. From your description of Jupiter It sounds like you weren’t looking at Jupiter - with a 10mm it is clearly and obviously not a star. You should easily see at least two main bands under almost any conditions. But remember the entire usable focus range on a 127 is about two turns of the focussing knob so there’s no point spinning it wildly around! Either way, brill scope. edit - btw having re read your original post it got me wondering - are you using a star diagonal? If you aren’t that might explain the awkward viewing angle - but it also might explain why you can’t see Jupiter properly, you might not have enough focal length without one to reach focus? Just a thought.
  4. Hello there - just finished maybe first process of my first image, I’m wondering whether it looks ok, or whether I’ve gone wrong somewhere? I haven’t seen a massive improvement from the transition from individual subs to a final stacked image, which I kind of thought I would?.... processed in PS to set black point and then tinkered in Lightroom. I dunno, I’m not disappointed - I just don’t know what to expect! I understand my polar alignment needs some work! Canon Eos 1300d 75-300 @ 125mm ish... 44x 30 sec lights - f5.6 iso1600 19x30 darks
  5. I had a Mak 127 for a while - they’re great on DSO’s - especially on globular and open clusters. From your description of Jupiter It sounds like you weren’t looking at Jupiter - with a 10mm it is clearly and obviously not a star. You should easily see at least two main bands under almost any conditions. But remember the entire usable focus range on a 127 is about two turns of the focussing knob so there’s no point spinning it wildly around! Either way, brill scope.
  6. I can’t seem to find an answer for this anywhere so thought I’d ask (as they say on South Park - there’s no stupid questions, just stupid people ). Anyway - I’m polar aligning my star adventurer using the polar scope align app, seems reasonably straight forward but... PS align gives you an image of a reticule that is perfectly up/down Left/right oriented and tells you where to put Polaris on the guide circle. Easy enough... BUT... my reticule spins whenever I move the RA (is it supposed to do that??). So assuming all is correct in that regard - I guess what I’m saying is that I have to guess when my reticule is rotated to the right angle - I can’t really tell when it’s perfectly up/down Left/right orientated, and that is introducing an element of uncertainty/ inaccuracy that makes my unhappy . Is there a way to make the process more accurate? does that make sense? I suppose an additional follow up question would be - does it matter that much? I mean it’s calibrated so the centre point is pretty close.
  7. Thanks all - change of plan though, either the stars have moved or the leylandii at the bottom of my garden has moved. Either way it’s an issue - so it’s M44 tonight - fingers crossed! already had some good moon shots at 300mm so not a wasted night already.
  8. Sorry - possibly a tad over excited there. Finally got my hands on it - a shiny new Canon EOS 1300D with 18-55 kit lens and a 75-300mm lens (clearance from Curry’s £348). Finally have something to stick on my Star Adventurer! So... against all known laws of telescope purchasing, clear outside is full of green squares (I’m assuming the telescope Gods didn’t realise my intentions and think it’s just a camera for normal use...). So - any ideas on what to point it at? The only caveat is that I want to use the big lens (cos I’m a child basically and bigger is better) - was thinking about pointing it vaguely in the M35 - M38 region at about 100mm and seeing what happens with some 60 second subs but am open to suggestions. dont have an intervalometer or shutterbug release yet but can control through my iPad which will do for now. Just to recap - WOOO!!
  9. Hello from Yorkshire

    Hi Tom!
  10. MOON IMAGES 150pds

    They’re fab - third one is a real cracker!
  11. That’s fine! We can swap obsy rooms if you like, mine is super tidy (but that’s mostly because it’s a carrier bag and fishing tackle box hidden beside the bookcase in the living room)
  12. That’s fine! We can swap obsy rooms if you like, mine is super tidy (but that’s mostly because it’s a carrier bag and fishing tackle box hidden beside the bookcase in the living room)
  13. I’ve got a fairly heavy duty mount but sadly it’s a video mount with a pan head - I’ve taken the pan head off but it’s still got one of the rack driven up-down central core things going on. Short of glue I just cant get it to stop rotating fractionally!! I see FLO do a tripod for the SA now - looks like the same one as the az gti? Looks ok, maybe a bit too lightweight though? Anybody got any experience? Or recommendations? thanks!
  14. M45 and M81 novice efforts

    I reckon they’re pretty fab pal - especially M81
  15. +1 for turn left at Orion. And stellarium! I usually pick 3 new targets and count it as a success if I find one. I always write field notes and do a quick sketch - really really useful as a logging exercise and for future reference. Always finish with something you know, it’s best to finish on a high!!
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