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Mr niall

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About Mr niall

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    Sub Dwarf

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    Staffs
  1. I’ve no idea if it would work bud - but my guess would be that you’d want to minimise sources of reflections in all directions including outside lights / reflections from your own room and other stray light surfaces from creeping in. Just a guess!
  2. Download a metronome app. You are aiming for 130-135bpm. As long as you are in that window you are all set, otherwise adjust spring to suit
  3. That’s not quite right but it’s probably not worth getting into the details - the point is that Polaris moves through the sky all night in a circle around celestial north (NOT True North) so for the graduations to work you need to calibrate it against your exact time and adjusted date you use it - and the Lx3 lacks the date rings to make that possible. generally using 0 as longitude is effective enough. a much easier way is to download a free app called “polar align” which shows you exactly where to point everything bush bash bosh. Ive had 60 secs at 300mm with a ball head easily enough - the trick is to align AFTER you’ve mounted your camera on it to compensate for sag. I normally shine my phone torch across the front at an oblique angle - works fine imho
  4. Yep I assumed you knew all that just thought I’d say it just in case! have you tried taping a piece of cardboard or something with a hole cut out to your window? it’s not impossible - George Alcock discovered a supernova through 1980s double glazing!
  5. It will be really really difficult to get any sort of half decent image through a window. Window glass is really along way off being good enough for any sort of astronomy - its almost analogous to trying to read a book placed in a bowl of water. And then factor in double glazing, which is not only doubling the problem but adding another extra thin slice of air with its own air current. And that is all assuming the windows are perfectly clean, but ignoring the coatings added to glass to increase reflection and reduce UV and IR absorption. And then factor in the fact you are trying to record a very very small object at very very high magnification that is quite low in the sky. Your best bet is to get as perpendicular to the glass as physically possible, as shooting at an angle will make things much worse. I'm assuming you cant get outside - is there anyway you can shoot through an open window?
  6. Hello there, sorry the stock eyepieces are not available
  7. Morning all Apologies this is a relist from a few days ago. As I said before, a wonderful scope but not very back friendly for me! (I thought I had a solution with a friend who had an eq3 but it turns our it was actually an Eq2 and it also turns out of course that the lack of tube rings meant it wouldnt have worked either way!) Skywatcher 150p flextube. 2 months old. PTFE added to focusses already (saving you at least 9 pence!...) Original box and foam packaging, RDF, collimating cap. Laser collimator with 2" adaptor. Supplied with 26 and 17 mm plossl instead of original eyepieces (astro - essentials, nearly brand new bought with scope) Collection only - South Staffs (Stone) £130. Offers accepted Many thanks - apologies if you have had to read this twice. As before - mirror is free from smudges, cracks, scratches photos show a few strands of dust lint probably due to the whole open tube design I guess.
  8. I've had the wonderful flextube 150p for about 8 weeks now. Its a wonderful scope and I have enjoyed it greatly. However... my back just doesn't get on with reflectors. I should have learnt my lesson but I keep getting drawn in by these light buckets! I'm going to have to move back to a frac or cassegrain, probably a frac. Additionally, while delightfuly compact for a 6 inch scope - it isn't really that compact and a wee bit bigger than I would really like for travelling. So reluctantly the 150p flextube is for sale. It comes with the original box and all packaging and RDF but I no longer have the eyepieces. I don't know why I no longer have the eyepieces but thats another story. I can offer a 26mm plossl with it though if that helps. Alternatively I'd be interested in swapping for a log focal length frac of some description if anyone is interested. £140 - buyer would need to collect from South Staffordshire. I have the inner presentation box but not the outer shipping box. Please note - the last picture of the mirror does at first glance look like the mirror has hundreds of scratches. There are absolutely no scratches - it is just dust / hair fibres. Seems to be the way with the open tube design I guess.
  9. I've never done a night-to-day observing session. That sounds great - but to have the moon coming up as night time fades sounds like the perfect way to do it!
  10. Hi Joe That is a fab choice of scope, if you look after it you will probably never want or need another one! As above, definitely by Turn Left at Orion. As amazing as Skysafari & Nightsky & Stellarium (free for PC definitely definitely get that) there is no replacement for that book! With your eyepieces You've actually got a really good range so I wouldnt bother thinking about replacing or upgrading. As above - M57 is a good target but be aware it is teeny tiny - it looks almost like any other stars at low power so watch out for that! I would have a go M13 and M92. They are pretty big and bright and nice and easy to find. If you look over toward the west it should be relatively easy to make out the slightly squashed square at the middle of hercules. If you can find that then you are all set. Here it is below (the website is called freestarcharts.com - it is another one to bookmark!)
  11. Hello there I'm looking for one (or a couple) of those little cases that lens filters come in. I have a reasonably small gap in my eyepiece case to fit my lens filters - so the standard big 2" boxes that most things come in is sadly too big. I need one of the littler ones about 30 to 40 x 30 to 40mm. Does anybody have any spares? Many thanks!
  12. 'Tis true and a good point. 99% of my daytime photography is with my phone.
  13. Here's one of Cygnus / sagitta with the nifty fifty. Not the most amazing shot but good edge sharpness at f 2.8
  14. Yes thats the one. 50mm F1.8 - pin sharp all the way down to about f3. And spectacular in the daytime too. Perfect portrait lens - fabulous bokeh, brill in low light. And just about the cheapest brand new lens you can buy! Here's a couple with my 250d. Just low res but you get the idea. The rose is with the nifty fifty (blurry edges applied by me not the lens!)
  15. They're all the same it makes no difference which you pick. Any DSLR made in the last 15 years will give broadly comparable results for astrophotography. The things that make a difference are things like Wifi and tilting screens which are very useful. Canon has a wider range of lenses. Nikon generally have better features but are slightly more expensive. If you stick to those two main brands you will be safe as you will have connectivity to things like Backyard EOS and Canon Connect which are very useful. I've got a 250d, its great, nice and compact and really intuitive to use. Its compact size and low weight is handy too and its a pleasure to use. But having said that, I upgraded from a 1300d which you can get used for about £175. In the daytime the 250d is much better, but at night (for astronomy) they are almost identical (250 is a bit more forgiving at high ISO). It's the lenses and the time spent setting up and learning your system that make the biggest difference, not the camera. The Canon EFS F1.8 50mm should be the first thing you buy! edit: The sony a6000 is brill - but getting on a bit. And you have the least lens choice. I think the 5600 or the 250 is probably better value. The 200d is nearly the same as the 250d. If you try somewhere like MPB you might be able to get a bargain.
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