Jump to content

Banner.jpg.b89429c566825f6ab32bcafbada449c9.jpg

m42 stack first attempt with canon 6d any good?


scopekid1325

Recommended Posts

I see you have some vignetting/gradients on your image. Specialized astro-processing software can take care of stuff like that and do much more to give you better results, the two more interesting ones are the expensive PixInsight (which includes calibration/stacking) and the inexpensive StarTools (requires stacked images).

For the things you can do with Affinity photo, you could improve the color balance, right now you have too much green in the image. Also, depending on how the original data is, you may or may not be able to bring out the core a little better when stretching.

I attempted to adjust the colors, but a final jpg doesn't really give me much to work for, so it didn't come out well, you have to do it from your stacked 16bit image. In the end, colors are subjective, just a matter of preference...

Orion2.jpg

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi Thanx I  have all images in raw I'll try again must admit the centre is over shot a lot of the images are at ISO 12000 .Do u think I should take some at a lower ISO say 1600 then a few more a little higher and so on up to 12000  to give me a better centre . ? As for affinity photo I have never used any photo editing software before so am on a  learning curve . I only used the basic tools on there . Exposure, .Curves histogram,, etc but I see what I mean  about the green but I quite liked the smokey effect that it showed up . I'll play around again with it again though.... I have a couple more end results so far with more red in them... I used a uhc filter clipin with the camera. And it seems to work well maybe I could send u an,original raw image to see what it should really end up like.  Thanx for taking an interest and replying Colin

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'd be inclined to use Startools rather than Affinity as it's a dedicated astro processing software, and costs no more than Affinity. Worth trying the demo.

I'm not familiar with the 6D, but ISO12000 seems hellishly high. Contrary to what you might think it's not necessary to go that high; if anything it just limits your DR and makes blowing out the highlights more likely. You don't want it so high that digital gain rather than analogue gain is being used by the camera to get the sensitivity. It's the stacking of many frames that makes up for the feintness of the image.

How many frames did you stack, and what scope and mount are you using, just for reference?

Ian

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi Thanx I  have all images in raw I'll try again must admit the centre is over shot a lot of the images are at ISO 12000 .Do u think I should take some at a lower ISO say 1600 then a few more a little higher and so on up to 12000  to give me a better centre . ? As for affinity photo I have never used any photo editing software before so am on a  learning curve . I only used the basic tools on there . Exposure, .Curves histogram,, etc but I see what I mean  about the green but I quite liked the smokey effect that it showed up . I'll play around again with it again though.... I have a couple more end results so far with more red in them... I used a uhc filter clipin with the camera. And it seems to work well maybe I could send u an,original raw image to see what it should really end up like.  Thanx for taking an interest and replying Colin

Link to comment
Share on other sites

7 hours ago, The Admiral said:

I'd be inclined to use Startools rather than Affinity as it's a dedicated astro processing software, and costs no more than Affinity. Worth trying the demo.

I'm not familiar with the 6D, but ISO12000 seems hellishly high. Contrary to what you might think it's not necessary to go that high; if anything it just limits your DR and makes blowing out the highlights more likely. You don't want it so high that digital gain rather than analogue gain is being used by the camera to get the sensitivity. It's the stacking of many frames that makes up for the feintness of the image.

How many frames did you stack, and what scope and mount are you using, just for reference?

Ian

Hi I have an evolution 9.25 using 6d at prime focus I tried stacking 12 or so raw images . I realise that 12000 is prob way over what I needed I mixed in A couple of images can at around 1600 . But I've only just got camera and I'm giving it a try I shot some at 25000 and 52000 as well  ..Apart from blowing the middle I didn't think 12000 clone too bad 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

14 hours ago, GoodOleJim said:

I envy your ability to do this. Is there a tutorial as to what supplies are needed, and what software is needed to pull photographs like this off? 

 

I'm not new to telescopes, but I'm green when it comes to astrophotography. 

hi i just learn as i go along and if u get stuck just ask questions on forums. i have a canon full frame camera u need a t ring and adaptor to fit camera to telescope 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

18 hours ago, scopekid1325 said:

Hi how long was each exposure how many seconds at ISO 400

if memory serves me, they were 300 seconds each at iso 400
my scope is polar aligned using the polar align feature in sharpcap, and mounted on pier, scope was also guided using phd2,

Link to comment
Share on other sites

10 hours ago, scopekid1325 said:

hi i just learn as i go along and if u get stuck just ask questions on forums. i have a canon full frame camera u need a t ring and adaptor to fit camera to telescope 

Thanks for the info! I assume you have a motor-driven telescope?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 15/02/2017 at 16:35, JemC said:

if memory serves me, they were 300 seconds each at iso 400
my scope is polar aligned using the polar align feature in sharpcap, and mounted on pier, scope was also guided using phd2,

i need to sort a wedge at some point .... if i polar align the tripod / mount will i be able to just put the scope on and go each time .....  as i dont want to polar align each time i go out...... then hopefully i should be able to take longer images for better finished products  colinb

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue. By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.