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wongataa

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  1. When routing cables manually move the relevant axes to make sure you have enough slack to allow the full rang of movement. I use Velcro cable ties and cable clips on the mount to make the cabling neater.
  2. I would say the Canon Ra is a stock camera as the different IR filter is a feature of the camera. It is sold by Canon as having that different IR filter. It is just a different type of stock camera than say a Canon non a camera. Yes a Ha filter is redundant on a Ra. By Ha filter I am assuming you mean a filter that only lets through the Ha wavelengths. They really are redundant on all colour cameras as even if the camera doesn't have a IR filter blocking the Ra signal (I think all regular digital cameras will pick up Ra signals as their IR filters don't block it all) then only the red photosites will pick up Ra signal. Only a quarter of the photosites are red so you would lose a lot of resolution and sensitivity. For a single bandpass filter a mono camera is better as all the photosites will receive the filtered signal.
  3. Unless you are going to be printing a lot is is much more economical to use a printing service and just send them the files. Inkjet printers need a lot of use otherwise the ink just dries up before it is used and the print heads clog up requiring a lot of ink to clear out. They also take up space, especially a larger format one. Then you have the learning curve with how to set it up and what papers require which settings. You will also need to be using a fully colour managed setup to get the best out of one. Really for home use most people would not use an inkjet printer enough to make it worthwhile. There are many printing services out there with many more printing options than you can ever have at home.
  4. The guide camera is good. The guide scope is fine but you can get cheaper equivalents. I wouldn't use and ASIAir and would use a mini PC instead. This way you are not locked into using ZWO astro cameras or particular brands of regular cameras.. You can choose which control software, such as NINA/APT/Other, to use. You have more freedom. You can remote desktop into the mini PC so you don't need a screen or keyboard attached.
  5. What happens if you try a different plate solver?
  6. You could try doing what it suggests in the error message or you could switch the polar alignment to manual movement and then you can slew the mount yourself without NINA doing it and potentially failing.
  7. It sounds like the co-ordinates (RA & DEC) the mount is reporting it is pointing at isn't actually what it is pointing at. This will throw off any control software. There will be a way to perform an alignment to calibrate the mount so it's internal pointing position matches reality. This is separate from polar alignment. Or if you have a camera and computer attached you can plate solve to do this.
  8. Exiftool can probably do it. It is a command line application so you would have to work out the required parameters. There are general instructions on the website.
  9. Set the active hours to ones the cover the night time. Then the computer will not restart to apply updates when you are using it for astro purposes.
  10. If an image looks pixellated at different zoom levels to 100% then that will be due to the scaling algorithm used by the viewing software that is scaling the image to the different zoom level. Noise reduction software would reduce the noise you can see at 100% zoom. It may help improve viewing at different zoom levels if it helps the viewing software's scaling algorithm.
  11. The Star Adventurer wedge does have a 3/8 UNC threaded hole.
  12. Don't drill a 3/8 hole. You want the hole to be larger than the threaded part going through it. A 10/10.5mm hole will be just fine. Also metric bits are more available in the UK. Personally I would just saw off the AZ pin, file the stump flat, and put some paint on the wound to protect the exposed metal.
  13. I would be trying a computer to run the cameras & mount instead of the ASI Air to see it the issue stops or not. If it doesn't appear when the ASI Air is removed then it is likely the problem is with that. If it doesn't disappear then further investigation is required.
  14. Dust on your sensor looks like a circular blob. I would say that dark spot in the image isn't dust on your sensor.
  15. I have seen something similar on my mount (a completely different one to yours). When it happened I stopped guiding and recalibrated it. After that the guiding had no issues and worked as it should. I have no idea why it went funny and why it was happy after a recalibrate. The initial and second calibrations seemed to be successful.
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