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Found 158 results

  1. I just try to show the beauty of the night sky, and again the possibilities with a smartphone. There are already better applications at the google play to make the night lapse easy. At first I used the Gif maker pro. It's a good app to edit the frames, before creating video, but you can't save the videos in good quality. Now I use the TimeLab app (same developer, as Intervalometer app), in the editing it has not so many options, but with this app you can save the videos in 4K too, or full HD. This video is 360 frames (each 30 sec exposition at ISO 800) Huawei P10 monochrome camera, Intervalometer app, TimeLab app. Pictures taken in Kleinwalsertal, Austria 2019. 09. 23-24. (The video is full HD, I don't know, why, but it doesn't run continuesly on my PC, when I watch that back on SGL. I hope, on your monitors you can enjoy it!) VID_timelab_20190924054735.mp4 VID_timelab_20190924054735.mp4
  2. Before I purchase one, I’m wondering if anyone has a 50 or 60 mm RACI with illuminated eyepiece they would like to sell? Thanks Andy.
  3. Ladies and gentleman, Thank you for helping me in advance. As a kid I've always been fascinated with the sky and what was in it. The nights sky is filled with beautiful stars and nebulae and I want to see them for myself and be amazed how insignificant we really are compared to this vast open space. So let me adress some of the key points that I want for a first scope. 1. Around €1000 2. Big aperture, I want to see as much as possible and as far as possible while not losing a clear image 3. I would like to have a push to or go to system 4. Beginner friendly 5. Size is not a problem 8. I prefer reflectors since it seems they give more aperture for the money but if you know a better scope that sees more with less aperture let me know 9. I have a Canon 550D and maybe I could use this for a bit of astrophotography. This is last on the list tho and can be scrapped if the first 3 points aren't met Of course build quality is very important when making my choice so keep that in mind as well. I'm looking forward to you guys advice. Happy stargazing and clear skies!
  4. My club's Atlas is stuck on the date 11/13/2099. Last night was 6/28/2019. Every time I reset the date and started the 3 star alignment the scope chose Vega and then pointed to the western sky - sorta wonky. When I tried a second star it aimed at a totally wrong part of the sky. I went back to date and it had reset to the11/13/2099 date. The mount has a working GPS module. I went through all the menus and there was no place other than the " sub menu to attempt to replace the errant date. After five tries I gave up. Apparently the GPS was accurate to withing a stride or two. What should I try next? I know my club; they'd rather stuff it in a corner than take the time or money to fix it. So it will be m time and my money. I used the mount several times this year and had no problem.
  5. Greetings, I'm super happy to have found this forum of night sky enthusiasts and look forward to learning and sharing on this site! I am an amateur stargazer fortunate to live in a rural area with great dark skies. I'm used to using a GoTo Celestron. Unfortunately I'm having a problem with a newly purchased Orion SkyQuest XTg 10. I've only used it a couple of times. Recently, when I turn on the power, the hand controller (a SynScan V4 GoTo, version 04.39.04) states a message "Both axes...no response!" which means the motors won't work. I've unplugged all the cords & replugged to no avail. The power comes from a new Orion Dynamo Pro, 12 V, Lithium Power Supply which was recommended. Does anyone have any ideas what the problem might be? Thank you
  6. This is a recent edit of data I collected back in January. Image is taken with a Canon 450Da and Canon EF L 70-200mm f/2.8 lens sitting on a Sky-Watcher Star Adventurer. It’s quite a large crop from a 200mm frame. 25 x 3 min guided subs. Stacked in SiriL and processed in Photoshop. Image taken in Northumberland under Bortle 3 skies.
  7. Looking for the 2" low profile extension tube that is provided with most of the skywatcher scopes. I have a used 190MN that didn't come with the extension tube and need it to get accurate focus. I believe Orion scopes may have one too.
  8. For deep sky observations, can you make suggestion which will be more fitted with my behavior: mobility is not a big concern as a least 11" aperture is must whereupon computerized stuff is no good choice for me.
  9. Like the lunatic that I am, I decided to get the scope out last week during that storm that was passing through. The skies were clear and there was no moon about, so I figured why not! Only problem was the 17-20 mph winds, lol. I got 2 hrs of subs but had to throw away half of them due to guiding problems more so than the wind, amazingly. This was the 2nd time in a row i'd had Dec guiding problems, and that's after about 2 years of not having a single problem guiding. After the 1st hr of wasted subs, I turned off Fast Switching in Dec and chose to only Dither in RA, and the Dec problems mostly went away, at least to allow me to capture 1 hr of 'still dodgy but just about useable' subs. Once M42 disappeared behind the neighbour's roof, I then re-calibrated on the Celestial Equator (Dec 0) and when I switched to the Pinwheel Galaxy I was able to guide as normal again (with Fast Switching and Dithering in both RA and Dec both turned on again) and didn't lose any subs, despite the wind, so I've decided that from now on I won't be calibrating at the target itself, i'm always going to do it at Dec 0. I decided to throw this in with another 1 hr of subs (plus 10 x 30s for the core) that I took back in Jan 2017 (has it really been that long?!). That hr also had issues, with some weird streaking in the lower left that I could never work out what caused it. The D5300 hadn't been modified at that stage either. So I fired it all in to APP and decided to stack it anyway, and give it a quick process. Then chose to crank it up to 11 on the colour front, just for laughs. It won't be going on the wall anytime soon, lol, but I suppose it came out a bit better than I was expecting, all things considered. 20 x 360s with an IDAS-D1 D5300, 80ED, HEQ5-Pro. Stacked in APP, processed in PS. CS! edit - I forgot to downscale it - so no pixel peeping allowed ?
  10. Yeah, back again (sorry). But having sorted out my problems with my star halos caused by the settings in DSS, I have now had a go at combining two images to keep the core from burning out. Not going to win any awards but I am quite happy with it as my "first" proper Orion shot. I'm proud enough of it I sent a copy to my mum! Essentially: 27 of 29 60s ISO1600 shots stacked for the Nebula 30 of 30 20s ISO400 shots stacked for the Core Stacked in DSS with minimum processing to match the output TIF files. TIF Files opened as layers in GIMP, aligned and a layer mask attached to the top Nebula Layer. Used the paintbrush to blend the two layers and saved as one after a bit more processing in GIMP. I think the ISO1600 shots over-cooked it a bit, so there is some noise in the darker areas, but I'll just go back to ISO800 for the next ones. First image shows the output from the Nebula stack, complete with burnt out core And then the second image after blending the core As I said, it won't win any awards, but I am happy that I am making some progress. Next to try and eke out a little more for the subs and try and get them up to 90s and will keep trying to get more detail out of the images. So to everyone starting out like me.....keep at it, it is amazing how quickly you can progress in your knowledge of this astrophotography lark, so don't give up. Obviously the more you learn and the better you get, the more it is going to cost you, but the nights of banging your head against a brick wall of clouds, rain, bad subs, poor processing and general frustration are worth it when you finally get a picture that you like. And thank you for everyone for humouring and helping me this far. I'm bound to be back again and again for more questions but, hopefully, I'll be able to start helping others as well! Clear Skies!
  11. Conditions have been very poor down in Sydney for the last month (rain, clouds or 'darn' moon every night ) so no new images but at least I have plenty of time for lots of reprocessing ... This one was captured back at the beginning of the year and I'm still playing with it. Here I have been trying to get to grips with the HDR composition function in PixInsight. It is built up from four sets of around 20 images each at 4sec, 8sec, 30sec and 120sec all at ISO800 with my unmodified Nikon D5300. And this is the previous attempt. I think I prefer the composition, colours and contrast of the new version.
  12. 9th/10th November 2015 Equipment: 80x500mm refractor Time: 22:46 - 00:40 47 Tucanae: showed a fuzzy patch with a distinctly denser/brighter core through a 40mm eyepiece (13X magnified). The 11mm (45X) eyepiece started to show granulation through out the globular cluster. The view was quite faint but noticeable and distinct. The very obviously brighter core gradually became fainter and more disperse toward the edges of the globular disc. The edges were noticibly irregular. NGC265 in Hydrus, dense star field just above beta Hydrus near east of 47 Tucanae. Heaps of faint stars but no nebulosity. The orange star that reminded me of the Sagittarius supernova during last binocular observation is in constellation Reticulum, quite possibly alpha reticulum, right place and brightness, note that gamma reticulum seems orange on star maps. Cluster in Sirius that I spotted last time I was observing is M41. A open cluster of stars, quite sparse and spread out cluster. Easily visible in binoculars and the 80mm refractor. The Pleiades are looking awesome as usual, about a hundred stars visible, and the whole constellation visible in the 40mm eyepiece FOV. This is one object that I usually spend a fair bit of time observing. This view is one that needs the least possible magnification with the highest possible light gathering power, so the 80mm scope at 13X through the 40mm eyepiece is ideal... Atleast in my tool box. Orion Nebula shows the whole Orion's sword in the 40mm eyepiece at 13X. This is definitely a view worth spending a bit of time observing. The running man nebula is very faintly showing through, but not anywhere near as obvious as the Orion Nebula. Increasing the power to 45X with the 11mm TV Nagler reveals more nebulosity and the trapezium is very obvious. Filters: Celestron OIII and Lumicon UHC filters seem to cut away too much light in the 80mm scope. There is more contrast through both but I preferred the view without either filter. The Celestron UHC/LPR and Seben CLR filters did a better job in showing more nebulosity as well as increasing the contrast. Both had their advantages so it's hard to say which did a better job, but if I had to choose, I'd say the UHC/LPR had slightly the edge on the darker parts of the nebula. The OIII and UHC filters are both too aggressive for the 80mm. Equipment: NexStar 8SE Time: 02:00 - 03:40 From approximately 2am, when the 80mm frac was setup to image the Orion's Sword, I wanted to compare the view in the 8SE to the 80mm refractor. First I framed up on to the Orion Nebula, without the UHC filter the nebula glow was very obvious and the stars with in and around, such as the trapezium, were bright. Looking through the 40mm and 11mm eyepieces with and without the UHC filter, the nebulosity was quite obvious, the "moustache" and the fishes mouth were obvious with detail visible that was not visible in the refractor as expected. That said I do remember a more detailed view of the Orion Nebula in the past... Especially using the UHC filter. The second object I located was the globular 47Tucanae. In the 40mm eyepiece the globular did not look any better than in the refractor so I replaced the eye piece to the 11mm Nagler. In the Nagler the globular was still quite dim but I did start to see granulation within the globular, but I was expecting to see the globular as a brighter object than what I'm seeing. I put the reason to seeing such dim views in the globular and the Orion Nebula to the fact that I had to keep adjusting the autoguide star on the laptop screen, even though the screen was turned down to minimum, I figured that the white light was still bright enough to ruin my night adaption.... Then I thought, have a look at the corrector plate... Sure enough, nearly totally covered in dew. Oh well the observing part of the night is over, next time I'll have to run a RCA cable from the CGEM dew strap controller to the 8SE on alt-az mount and try these objects again. Hopefully in the next week there will be at least one more clear night before the moon lights things up again. MG
  13. Hi Guys, I thought I would share with you my first DSO taken with my new Orion 8" Ritchey Chretien F8 Telescope. The frame is made up of 12 x 4min shots, no light or dark frames, using my Sony A7Rii camera. The camera had the long exposure noise reduction switched on, which does help to reduce the total number of stars captured by the camera, as the Sony A7Rii does tend to overdo the number of stars captured. The telescope was mounted on my trusty skywatcher NEQ6 mount and the guiding was via PHD 'of course' via my skywatcher ED50 guide scope. The shots were taken from my back garden in Stowmarket, Suffolk where I believe I am a Bortie 4 location, so the skies are mostly dark, with just a little light pollution from the main town, no filters used. My normal telescope is a Skywatcher ED100 Pro Esprit F5.5, which is an incredibly sharp scope, but with a wide 550mm field of view, great for capturing the whole of Andromeda but a struggle with smaller images like the Iris Nebula. I will say the Orion RC scope did need to be collimated out of the box, which was a little disappointing, and it was not just a little out of collimation, it was a long way out, but with the use of a collimating tool, I soon had it dialled in. First impressions of the Orion Ritchey Chretien 8" Telescope are fair, not super impressed, as it is nowhere near as sharp as my ED100 Esprit, but then this is to be expected based on price and telescope type, however, the pictures it has produced are pretty good, if you downscale the full 42MP from the Sony A7Rii camera, as can be seen in this picture. I purchased this 8" Orion Ritchey Chretien OTA mainly for Planetary work, but as yet I have not had a chance to 'get onto' a planet, fingers crossed some clear nights will arrive soon, so I can try. I welcome comments, many thanks Jamie
  14. My wife Janie is very heavily into cross-stitch and produces beautiful work from photographs (normally dogs!) using patterns that I produce for her using special software. Her latest project is from one of my deep sky images and one of her favourite objects, the Orion Nebula. The 'resolution' is a pretty appalling 216 x 216 stitches but when hung on the wall and viewed from about four feet away, it will look like a photograph. As usual, I have produced a mock-up for her showing literally every stitch that will be sewn using 82 different silk colours! For the fun of it I will post up WIP images but here is the mock-up for starters (the image might need to be clicked on to show the stitches rather than just an interference pattern!):-
  15. Update 16th June: I could not wait to tell people that I was just notified that my image of Omega Centauri will be published as a future NASA's Astronomy Picture of the Day ( APOD ) - my first ever I will update the thread when they publish. ................................. A deep look at Omega Centauri ( NGC 5139 ) This image is an attempt to look deeply into the the Omega Centauri globular cluster by using HDR techniques to record as many faint stars as I can whilst retaining colour and detail in the bright stars, including at the core ... ............. Reprocessed to bring out more faint stars and to produce a smother transition between brightness levels. New version ( 12 June 2017 ): Omega Centauri ( NGC 5129 ) ( please click / tap on image to see lager and sharper ) .......... Old version: Omega Centauri ( NGC 5129 ) ( please click / tap on image to see full size and sharper ) Image details: from www.nova.astrometry.net: Size: 58.6 x 39 arcmins, Centre: 13h 26 min 50.4 sec, -47deg 28' 39.1''. Orientation: up is -89.9 East of North ( ie. E^ N> ). Telescope: Orion Optics CT12 Newtonian ( mirror 300mm, fl 1200mm, f4 ). Corrector: ASA 2" Coma Corrector Quattro 1.175x. Effective Focal Length / Aperture : 1410mm f4.7. Mount: Skywatcher AZ Eq6 GT. Guiding: TSOAG9 Off-Axis-Guider, Starlight Xpress Lodestar X2, PHD2 . Camera: Nikon D5300 (unmodified) (sensor 23.5 x 15.6mm, 6016x4016 3.9um pixels). No filter Long Exposure noise reduction off Location:. Blue Mountains, Australia. Moderate light pollution ( pale green zone on darksitefinder.com map ). Capture: 9 sets of sub-images with exposure duration for each set doubling ( 1s to 240s ) all at ISO800. Processing:. Calibration: master bias, master flat and no darks. Integration in 9 sets. HDR combination. Pixinsight May 2017
  16. Greetings to you all, I am begging some expertise and assistance (again!!) I managed to get 35 minutes on orion last night and have successfully stacked in DSS. My issues seem to start in processing. I was hoping to see a 'flame' coloured flame nebula but it stubbornly stays red which may simply be down to not enough time at the camera....dew was the issue (late autumn here) and i haven't figured out how to process images from different nights imaging) Anyhow, i have posted here my attempt at processing (gimp) and also the original DSS file in the hope that some of you may be able to apply your expertise and see if you can't make it look more pleasing......and also help me by explaining how you did it! Also, I would really like to know where you think I've gone wrong on my processing.....have I over/under cooked it etc. As ever I am most grateful for any assistance.......processing is a tough nut to crack! Thanks in advance all of you and below are the technicals. Seeing was a bit misty and orion was low to the western horizon. yes, its upside down.....i'm down under! canon 40D modified, 135mm, f5, ISO 1600 skywatcher star adventurer 18x120seconds lights 18x120seconds darks 20x8000/sec bias stacked in DSS Ok.....strike this one.....after spending an hour and a half uploading 61mb files.....it's somehow totally failed to post them permission to swear loudly !!
  17. I've had issues but, I stayed the course and got them taken care of , now to get a night of good alignment only 8 seconds @-15 due to alignment issue of stubbling over the tipod leg. The zwo 174MM cooled is my new workhoarse for it all and I'm still learning the camera capabilities and trying to find the settings for " full well " so I don't under or over sample to make every photon count.
  18. Captured back in early October, I didn't pay quite enough attention to the framing - I should have moved the camera up and right a bit and I could have gotten the whole belt in the picture... the headline stuff is in there though, M42/M43, Horsehead and Flame etc 10x 200 second subs taken with a modified Canon 650D through a Borg 55 f/3.6 (focal length 200mm). There's a load of red stuff in there that needs more exposures (or slightly longer ones) to show more off so I will redo this one and frame it correctly... or do a mosaic of Orion or... well, it'll depend on the number (or lack) of clear nights!! Unfortunately there are haloes on Alnitak and Alnilam, I may have a solution for the next time I cover this area Processing wise I'm going to have to sort out shorter exposures for the Orion Nebula and longer for the rest... James
  19. This is the result of a stack of images of the core of M42 that I took in February. I'm a new to DSO AP and not experienced at all! I have tried to do all sorts of things with the resulting tiff file from DSS (10 x 30 sec lights + 10 x 30 sec Darks + 5 Bias frames using an unmodified Nikon D7200 at ISO 800 on a Starwave ED80). I'm now being patient and slow and followed a PI workflow and I did a little PS to further reduce noise. Thought I'd risk showing it and hope someone can comment on how to improve my new technique in the future. Thanks for looking, R:)
  20. Congrats Olly and Tom for this stunning image of Orion region with more than 400h exposure!!! Awarded by today's EAPOD
  21. I found a used Deep Space Explorer 8" for sale online. It comes with a collimator and several lenses, as well as a telrad finder scope. The price is lower than any Dobsonion I've seen before, $75. I am just getting started in the stargazing hobby, especially with telescopes, so I was wondering the opinion of you kind folks. Would this be worth buying? Why or why not? Thank you!
  22. Well, the day has finally arrived. My new dream scope has landed at my door. After many weeks of contemplation of what i wanted to upgrade to i have finally settled on the Orion 12" goto dob. Love the look of this scope along with the quality build finish. I was originally going to go for the GSO Revelation 12" and build my own EQ mount but i have always had a soft spot for Orion and just thought, sod it So, here it is boxed up with the Tracer battery i got along with the Orion mains adapter. Think i may need to buy a 12v jack plug for the battery however as there isnt one in the box, only a strange female tube like connector. Only thing left on back order is the Orion light shroud due any time soon. Big shout out to Kerin at Telescope House for all his help and amazing deal he has done me. Thanks pal. So, the big unbox is due tomorrow, plenty more pics to follow for this thread.
  23. This is a very wide angle image of the Night Sky looking east toward Norwich (hence the orange glow) Unfortunately i forgot to take it in RAW so there is a bit of noise evident I used the wide end of a Sigma 10-20mm EX lens on a Canon EOS 60D
  24. Good evening, I thought I would try to take a photo of Orion tonight, but using the instructions in a magazine I can't seem to get the thing in focus. Image has been resized, so it looks a little sharper than it is! I have a Nikon D80, with a 50mm 1.8 lens attached. (I don't really have any great lenses - [18-105mm], [55-200mm]) Settings for this photo were ISO 400, F1.8 for 15 seconds. I focused on Jupiter with auto then went to Manual for the shot. Thanks for any tips!!!
  25. Carina Nebula with the bright unstable star Eta Carinae in the centre of the image. edit ( 27 March ): Tweak to shadow levels to bring out more detail and also a slight reduction in the brightness of the highlights. A much larger version ( 4562 x 3072 6062 x 4082) is available on my Flickr page. previous version: Carinae Nebula ( NGC 3372 ) ( please click / tap on image to see larger and sharper ) From Wikipedia ... "Eta Carinae is a highly luminous hypergiant star. Estimates of its mass range from 100 to 150 times the mass of the Sun, and its luminosity is about four million times that of the Sun." This HDR image is constructed from 12 sets of exposures ranging from 1/8 sec ( to capture the bright centre of Eta Carinae ) through to 240 seconds. Total exposure time around 13 hours 17-19 March 2018 Image details: Objects in image: Hypergiant, Eta Carinae ( HD 93308 ) in the centre of the Homunculus Nebula Carina Nebula ( NGC 3372 ) Keyhole Nebula Open Star Clusters: - Trumpler 14, 15, 16 - Collinder 232 Field of view ..... 59' 18.2" x 39' 56.0" Image centre ...... RA: 10 45 01.762 Dec: -59 40 52.87 Orientation: North is up Telescope: Orion Optics CT12 Newtonian ( mirror 300mm, fl 1200mm, f4 ). Corrector: ASA 2" Coma Corrector Quattro 1.175x. Effective Focal Length / Aperture : 1470mm f4.7 Mount: Skywatcher EQ8 Guiding: TSOAG9 Off-Axis-Guider, Starlight Xpress Lodestar X2, PHD2 Camera: Nikon D5300 (unmodified) (sensor 23.5 x 15.6mm, 6016x4016 3.9um pixels) Location: Blue Mountains, Australia Moderate light pollution ( pale green zone on darksitefinder.com map ) Capture ( 17, 18 & 19 March 2018 ): 12 sets of sub-images with exposure duration for each set doubling ( 1/8s to 240s ) all at ISO250. ( 181 x 240sec + 10 to 20 each for the other durations ) Processing: Calibration: master bias, master flat and master dark Integration in 12 sets HDR combination Pixinsight March 2018
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