Freddie

Set the rate to something slow like 3 or 4 and move to roughly where your target is and then use GOTO for the last bit of movement. That will keep the overall amount of noise down.

I don’t think light pollution will be an issue with solar imaging !!!!!!

Captured around 2.30 on Thursday afternoon. Last one was quite faint and I almost didn't notice it at first.

Ah yes, 100% with you on that.

I would avoid setting your gamma below default for actual captures. If you look at your histogram you have big chunks missing so that is data you can never get back. You can however achieve the same results in post processing if you capture at default. Not quite sure why Rusted is suggesting to avoid sharpening, that’s the point of capturing and stacking multiple frames. I would suggest avoid over sharpening.

You are correct. Maybe I should type slower not faster next time and check the data !!

AR stands for active region. In this case AR2735 was the active region (sun spot) that moved across the solar disc over the last week or so. Each AR is given a sequential number, so the next one will be AR2736 but we could be waiting a while as we are at solar minimum. Must type faster next time !!!

Are settings in the FireCapture screen shot the settings you would use in an actual capture or just settings for a preview?

I don’t think the length of AVI is an issue as a 10,000 frame AVI would be captured in 34 secs with the parameters used. You have to consider image scale and at this image scale, movement over that time isn’t going to be an issue. I wouldn’t however stack anywhere near 3000 of those 10,000 frames though.

Sorry you feel that why. I helped by answering your question and based on your recent posts you appear to have an extremely limited knowledge on the subject so was just suggesting a better way for you to get some answers and guidance you clearly need.

Solar system. Having also seen your DSLR question, you would be better off deciding what you actually want to do and then you can ask specific questions and get good advice on what’s needed. These somewhat vague questions are probably not helping you much.

Depends on what you want to image.

Click on the latest version under downloads. That will take you to github where you click on the win64 version to download the zip.

For visual or imaging? Will make a big difference to the mount that would be appropriate.

20kg for the OTA + weights on top of that.

1,000 stacked from how many?

If you mean on the inside between the chip and underside of the window, just unscrew the top to expose the chip and give it a blow/clean.

If that’s the only place you can site your scope then there is not much more you can do other than make sure the scope is well collimated and cooled. Maybe your processing could be improved? How are you processing your captures?

There is something wrong somewhere in your system if you are not getting 60fps as per the spec. My 174 achieves the spec. at full frame and down through any ROI.

What is it that makes you say the filters don’t look good in the picture? I would have thought that determining optical quality from a picture of some filters in a case must be quite tricky!

I can’t imagine why everyone would suggest a guide scope would be better than an OAG on a Newt.

That’s a good spot and at that price you can’t go wrong.

As said above, those focuser units are lovely bits of kit. I have a Moonlite on my DSO kit. For my 9.25 and planetary imaging, because my ASI 174, Barlow and manual filter wheel aren’t that heavy, I decided to give the SW unit a go. At £140 it’s not premium kit but to be honest it is spot on and I have had no thoughts at all that an upgrade is needed. I would highly recommend it. https://www.firstlightoptics.com/skywatcher-focusers/dual-speed-2-crayford-focuser-for-sct-telescopes.html

You need a new set of darks as the defects on the new chip will not be the same as on the old one.

OK, so you now need to sharpen the stacked image using something like Registax or ImPPG. Not sure what you mean about doing the same with planets. If you are referring to the edges, then yes on a planet image the edges will still be choppy but the planet itself should look fine. The key to all this though is to just use AS!2 to stack (don’t tick sharpen) and use something else to sharpen the stacked image.