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mikey2000

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About mikey2000

  • Rank
    Proto Star

Profile Information

  • Interests
    DSLR and mirrorless 'terrestrial' photography, space, telescopes and now astrophotograpy
  • Location
    Leighton Buzzard UK
  1. As far as I can tell, 20Kg is the photography max payload, going by First Light Optics website (that’s where I bought mine..) but the thought of perching 40kg for visual/observing use makes my head spin.
  2. sometimes, I have to power everything down and power things up again in just the exact right order before it all works again. I start with all the far away components, then the USB hub, then the PC. Inexplicably, sometimes I have to do it twice for no apparent reason. frustrating!
  3. One of my first targets to add Sii . Here are two final pics, one RGBHaOiii and one SHO hubble pallete-style. I'd quite like to revisit the SHO version and fix the star colours a bit. 90 mins each of Ha and Oiii, 60 mins Sii, 30 mins each of RGB
  4. at screen size, it looks great to me. I have to go 1:1 to see some noise. But I wonder how big the actual patch of sky is? Artistically speaking, while the colours etc look great, the composition doesn't give much for the eye to look at; plenty of small details but not much to really have a good look at.
  5. mikey2000

    M106

    it doesn't look noisy to me at 'screen size' I haven't zoomed in to pixel peep. Nice colours too and the background is smooth without being blotchy. I'd be very happy with this result...
  6. I have to wait until 23:45!!! Still it's shaping up nicely here tonight - the howling winds have suddenly died, the clouds have evaporated and guiding RMS is at 0.58". The seeing is good! I just need some darkness....
  7. Hi All, I was just wondering what the current thoughts are on using Pixinsight to make a SynLum from a set of R, G and B shots. I imagine the advice might be: 1) Calibrate, register and integrate each channel to get R G and B masters. 2) Average these three. Hey presto, SynLum. The question is: Should the R G and B integrations be averaged straight away? Should they be noise-reduced first? Linear-Fitted? DynamicBackgroundExtracted first? What settings/process is best to average the three together? PixelMath? ImageIntegration? (What settings?) All tips much appreciated!
  8. Thanks. I suspected that might be the only solution. I spent several hours further fine tuning the rig both under load and unloaded and it now seems a lot better. There is definitely a sweet spot! My PHD backlash graph now looks a lot more like it used to when the mount was brand new And then the clouds rolled in Lol!
  9. Just to add, I adjusted the DEC axis by loosening the 4 big allen-key bolts then tuning the little top and bottom grub screws, loosening one by about 1/10 turn before tightening the other then finally tightening the 4 big bolts again before running the axis via handset a full turn each way. As it runs through the tight bit I can hear a slight change in the sound. The motor whine stays the same but I can hear a very faint groaning as it runs through the tight spot.
  10. After a recent PHD2 recalibration, I got a telling off from PHD2 about DEC backlash on my EQ6R. How annoying! In the past, I got really good backlash graphs. To be fair, I haven't noticed any particular problem guiding but as I had discovered the RA axis had a good few mm of backlash, I thought I'd have a fiddle, following the instructions for NEQ6 (from astrobaby) and the official EQ6-R worm tuning guide as seen on p3 of the EQ6-R owners club thread here. RA - fixed - no problemo DEC - hmm. Troublesome. As I use the synscan handset to run the Dec axis through a full revolution, I discovered about a third of the revolution has no backlash now but the remainder still has a bit of a wobble. If I tighten the worm any more, I can cure the other backlash for the 2/3 but the 1/3 now struggles and frequently binds, leading to many horrible sound effects (scary!). Its the same part of the rotation each time, no matter which way I revolve the axis. I've seen mention of Worm Float Adjustment but I have no idea if that is connected to this or not? Does anyone have any suggestions of how to cure my 'zonal backlash' (I just made that term up!)
  11. OK, I found the AstroBaby EQ6 worm adjustment instructions and in daylight managed to combine those with the official EQ6-R Skywatcher backlash instructions (mentioned above) to get a view on what goes on in the worms. It seemed to make sense. I felt brave and gave it a go.... I had a slight RA play that seemed easy to tune out. Emboldened, I tried the Dec axis as PHD was now complaining about Dec backlash following my belt adjustment. I wondered if I had over tightened the belt and the extra tension had pulled the worm away from the main gear. Shocking Dec backlash! (see screen photo) I could actually feel it if shift I move the axis, clunking from side to side. So, I tried adjusting the DEC worm as per astrobaby. I think I overtightened it - it sounded OK slewing in the vicinity where I made the adjustment but on a longer slew, lots of unpleasantly new grinding noises in a certain part of the rotation. The EQ6-R Skywatcher instructions say to adjust the backlash in the place where it is least. I see know how important that is! That must be the tightest part of the cycle and I suppose that is the limit on the adjustment. I'll fix it tomorrow and hope for enlightement on the function of the Worm End Caps... Still a bit of voodoo out there!
  12. Excellent explanation! Thanks. It sounds like my belts could do with a little extra tension maybe (my backlash graph is nowhere near as good as yours!) they are getting old now and perhaps they have stretched a bit.. I think belt adjustment lies within my limited abilities but the rest of the worm/float adjustments sound like voodoo magic to me and until someone makes a step by step video in simple non-engineering terms, I think I’ll be satisfied
  13. I think maybe you mean movement of the belt teeth over the gear teeth ? I’m talking about how much “twang” is right for correct belt tension. I’ve doodled on the photo from above to illustrate. My red arrow measurement would be about 5mm. In the video it looks like quite a lot of force being used to tighten the belt. My query is how tight should it be?
  14. Just curious - when adjusting the belts pictured above, how tight should they end up? If I twang mine like a guitar string, there is about 5mm of “lateral bounce”
  15. That's a good looking nebula! The cloud looks suitably red but yes, it would be nice to have more colour in the starfield
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