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About Astrosurf

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  • Birthday 05/08/62

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    Lover of all things astro, my family and friends (for their tolerance as much as anything!), science, reading, music, snakes, anything with an exoskeleton and anything/anyone that makes me laugh!
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  1. As your camera is unmodded, you won't pick up much of the emission nebulae as the filter in your camera blocks much of the hydrogen alpha (Ha) light that they emit. Reflection nebulae are fine. The dumbbell neb is a great target as it's bright. Also have a go at globular clusters but the stars must be pin sharp so try getting your polar alignment as good as possible and try out different sub lengths..
  2. Great first image! That was my first target too. The egg-shaped stars are caused by trailing. You'll need to either get better polar alignment or reduce your exposure time a little. Is your polarscope reticule aligned to the mount? I don't know if your mount can accommodate guiding, but the DARV drift method of polar alignment should help: There are a lot of posts on here about different methods of taking flats (I don't do them as I use the GradientXTerminator plugin in Photoshop). Try a search. Start a new thread if you can't see anything that helps. Alexxx
  3. Thanks Frank. That's a good, cheaper option.
  4. I've not done it yet, but as with Bobro's set-up, you could try mounting the DSLR and guiding set-up on a side-by-side bar? I don't know much about FLs with guiding though. Bobro, how did you make that bar? It looks like wood. Alexxx
  5. As has been said here, I started with a modded DSLR and then moved to my Atik mono. I don't have much staying power so don't have much time to gather enough colour in one night, so tend to have stuck with nebulae in Ha with the Atik. I'm impatient to get objects so haven't yet done separate nights for colour! That'll come next. I'm beginning to want to go back to my DSLR for colour as I get so much more time. Maybe not the clarity of detail but still quite a lot of data over at least two hours. I also find the processing with DSLR colour images much easier than the Ha/LRGB processing. I can't get rid of the turquoise colour in the latter! So of course it's up to you. Go straight in to the mono, filter wheel etc if you feel confident, or go to the modded DSLR route (or equivalent) to get your hand in. Good luck! Alexxx
  6. m5

    Lovely job. I should really image more of these!
  7. Well, it's not perfect, but I use my SW Explorer 200P for both visual and AP. It's VERY sensitive to wind so the night has to be very still to get good images. I use an HEQ5 Po mount (the limit of my carrying capability!) but the EQ6 would manage the scope better as it's heavier and sturdier. I mainly use this scope for planets and small DSOs like galaxies, and my small 72mm frac or larger objects such as nebulae and galaxy chains etc. I did have to get an engineer friend to shorten my adaptor for my Skywatcher coma corrector and move the mirror up a bit as I didn't have enough inward travel on the focuser. Colimation's easy when you get use to it. Honestly! I'm a scaredy cat and I can do it fine now! Alexxx
  8. Excellent help gents. Many thanks!
  9. Thanks guys. I feel comforted. I certainly do need a checklist! I noticed in PHD2, from others who use it, that the graph is set up so any small movement looks like huge peaks! That would worry me. Can that be adjusted?
  10. Thanks guys. I'll try the Velcro first, or just tie the controller to the tray.
  11. I wish I knew what you meant! I'm not at all techie.
  12. Thanks Jesper. I've seen people attach wooden boards to the mount's legs, but I'd need to see it before making!
  13. I have one of the following and and HEQ5 Pro mount. How do you attach your equipment to your mount? Alexxx