George Gearless

4mins with an AZ GTI is pretty impressive. Even in EQ mode.

First image. There's nothing quite like it, is there? Congratulations on a very nice first picture.

Ok, so manual adjustments. Gotcha. I was just in awe at how precise and steady your picture was without 'proper' polar alignment. Just wondered if there was some 'trick' to it. As it happens, there was. Just not as magical and intricate as I'd envisioned :). Thanks again.

At the risk of being Captain Obvious here, I do suggest checking that the clutches are tightened properly. Your description sounds very much like the same problems I went through, until the headslapping moment where I realized what was wrong. In addition, do check the nuts and bolts that connect the mount head and the tripod. When my accuracy once again started to deteriorate, but the clutches were finger tight as they should be, I found that the nuts slowly but surely were coming lose. This mount does require regular checkups. But if you do, I really can't think of anything bad to say about it. Hoping you get it sorted. George

I know this is going to sound ignorant, but I don't know this program. So are you are using a guidescope or are you just ocasionally adjusting manually?

Thanks a bunch. That was pretty awesome. National Geographic material right there. May I ask how you got such a steady alignment to allow you to do this? Permanent setup, or....?

The short answer is : Yes. No problem. However, both suppliers that I have talked with (FLO and Astroshop.de) both recommend a UV/IR Cut Filter. I've used my Quark without filter on my ED80. For one viewing session of about 1 hour, I have also used it filterless in my 120mm f/8,33. No problems. Ultimately I did decide to spare the Quark from unnecessary energy and opted for the UV/IR Filter. It's a minor investment compared to the Quark. I have no documentation for this, but in my mind I'm sparing my Quark and thus prolonging its life. But once again; Daystar themselves say that you can use it up to aperture 120mm without any additional filters. My experience with it gives me no reason to doubt it.

I concur with Peter Drew that the cheapest solution is a 40-50mm solar telescope. You can actually buy a 'filter' called Daystar Quark . But they cost more than a 40-50mm dedicated sun telescope and would be of no use to you and your newtonian reflector. The Quark is primarily designed for use with refractors. I'm just mentioning it because I think that this was what you had in mind.

Thanks Bizibilder. I was thinking along those lines, but have learned from experience that my first line of thought on AP matters is often wrong :).

Good to have another Scandi on the forum. I'm from Denmark. Indeed the long summernights are a problem for guys like us. Luckily, the moon does present itself regularly and poses a very good target. Particularly with the maksutov telescope you impulsively bought. As you, I too find myself in limbo half of the year. I've recently gotten myself into sun watching and photographing for that very reason. The mount you bought should serve you well for many years. It will serve you at your current beginners level as well as leave loads of room for growth and expansion. I think you've made a good choice there. For a beginner, the inclination is to go and buy a massive and expensive telescope, only to realize that you've got nothing to put it on, thus rendering it more or less useless. Trust me, in that respect I know what I'm talking about :). Btw, welcome to SGL.

Expertly done, mate. Very impressive division on the rings. I'm a bit jealous, but enjoyed the photo none the less :).

Ignorant, but genuine question: What do you mean when you say 'white light'?

I'll be using a ASI ZWO 385MC. I'll keep the issue in mind. Thanks for the 'warning'. Maybe I'll plug the mouse into the hub instead and the main camera into the one USB port.

Ahh, hadn't thought of the power issue. Good catch. Thanks

Not sure if this is the right place to ask, but here goes. I have an older laptop that I'm thinking of using for imaging. It only has two USB2 ports. For the most part I prefer using a mouse rather than the finger pad. So that leaves one USB port for cameras and 'other stuff'. Let's just for arguments sake say that I have a main camera, a guide camera, a focuser and mount control. If I put those four into a USB-hub which is connected to the single USB2 port, what will happen? A. Nothing. The single port will not be able to distinguish what signal goes to what because it's all jumbled together in the hub. It's like playing four different television programs at the same time on one screen. B. Technically, it'll work. But because you're cramming a data-stream meant for four ports into one, you'll experience 'lag' during big data transfers. But it will get there eventually. As fast as the USB2 will allow. C. It'll be fine. I'm surprised you're even asking. Anyone got any experience with this? Georg