MarkAR

Not daft at all. It also works as a field flattener. Also I don't have any suitable extensions to get to the right focal length. Saying that, I have heard that the Altair Wave series can get away without the flatteners/ reducers much depending on the camera FOV as well.

Cheers guys. I've been contemplating the Powermates to up my focal length. Altair Wave 115 EDT is 805mm, have the 0.79 F/R on it at the moment and am also considering the 1.0x F/R.

Thats the one I have as well. Considering there seem to be a few out there with owners all having the same problem, it is either put together wrong or it is supposed to be off. If its supposed to be off, then with the reticle sharp the star is blobbed up to possibly a doughnut and the crosshairs can mark the centre of the doughnut. Or a sharp star visible in the centre of the fuzzed crosshairs. I'm not sure if even Altair will know what its supposed to be doing.

Beautiful and well balanced image.

Along the same lines, what about imaging with a 0.8 reducer/flattener and a 2x or even 4x 2" TeleVue Powermate.

Also the best processor you can, i5 or better.

Might be worth having a look at Altair Astro offerings, they have kit suitable for full frame DSLR.

NOOOOOOOOOOOO. Daft little things can get so annoying, it'll give you something to do now during the day.

I would just fudge the time or UTC in stellarium and see if that works. Could it be Stellarium is taking the corrected DST from your computer then adding the correction again?

Astroboot.co.uk might have something.

A gift from one of my customers.

Just having another look at these and I think because of the dark formations the rest needs a little more pop so maybe the first image has the edge.

Don't know which is best as they all look great.

Lovely shot.

Nice one @Horwig, still waiting fo mine. I looked at making my own and the price of metal off cuts made it a silly idea.

They do exist but the fit isn't always good and may not point you along the axis of the camera. Try something like Stellarium on your phone, you will be able to get close to target. I managed to get M101 dead centre in 10 minutes by placing phone on front of lens.

Just thought I'd dig this up. My SXCCD Trius 694 has " full well capacity in excess of 17000 e- (unbinned)", does that mean I should be aiming for around 12000 ADU ? Trying to get the EKOS flat calibration right. Also would this be a suitable light source https://www.amazon.co.uk/Dorr-LT-2020-Viewing-Slides-Negatives/dp/B01MAVUM4X/ref=sr_1_16?crid=175BYN3AOU462&dchild=1&keywords=small+light+box&qid=1586520675&sprefix=small+light+box%2Caps%2C146&sr=8-16

Much better, well done.

Good effort, looks like there was a lot of sensor noise in your image.

Congratulations. Superb image.

Stunning image.

Love it.

Forgot to look at this, looks like the burn is in the middle of the components, more like the surface trace has burnt rather than a component. Is there anything on the back in that area?

Very nice, colour and saturation look good.

Could be that the 150-600 is just too heavy. Get a planetarium app on your phone, select target and place phone flat on to front light shield so that you can still see where your target is and manoeuvre the camera. Its a bit of a faff but can get you there abouts. Take a test shot minimum 30s at 1600 and hopefully you will detect a faint smudge that is your target. Or go by the stars in the image and compare with the planetarium app, manoeuvre camera carefully for better framing if necessary.