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lux eterna

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About lux eterna

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  1. A poor power connection can be very bad to the electronics, that is what killed the motherboard in my Heq5 Pro some time ago. This diy plug lock can add some security: ...but replacing the 12V conector is still better : Ragnar
  2. No, it is not flipped. You can compare Orion in my image with Stellarium : Ragnar
  3. Just a fan will probably not make a big difference, but if you can produce cooled air (or gas) it will be very effective especially in warm ambient temperatures. I am hunting for a used 5300 (for the 24 Mpixels) and will keep your idea in mind - good thinking ! Ragnar (sorry for the late answer)
  4. I screwed a kitchen drawer handle (dont tell my wife) to a pair of alu bars, and covered these ends with rubber tape which give very good friction. Then strapped the whole thing to the OTA. Works perfectly, very stable. Seen in the picture is also a strap at the original handle, I only use that to lift up the OTA from it´s bag, until I can reach the handle itself. (Sorry for the poor picture quality). Ragnar
  5. I have a new version of this invention. The old SodaStream in the kitchen just got a new life (who likes those bubble drinks anyway ?). I took the cylinder and hose/valve things, put some insulation on it and so it became a camera cooler. A right angle hose in the camera plus some soft silicone tubing and the camera is ready to enjoy cool and dry CO2 gas. Should I turn the cylinder up side down, I would get CO2 snow but I just use gas. The cylinder lives in the freezer when not in use, so it will have maximum cooling effect. For safety, I always plug both tube openings until using this to avoid humid air from entering the camera interior. (Sorry for the poor picture quality). I measured the cooling effect, from +20 degrees Celsius to -20 in just a few seconds (depending how much you inject). So I use this now and then, between exposures (sorry, have no with/without pictures). BTW, the stainless dslr bracket is just a (very effective) fucuser flex killer. Ragnar
  6. Just in case someone is using this. Sometimes I was a bit off target using this version of the Excel spreadsheet so I updated with another formula for calculating what impact delta DEC positions have on delta RA with a fixed offset between the two scopes. I have no proof for correctness with this new version, but the last time I tried it it was spot on. Offset Calculator_V2.xls Ragnar
  7. That is a very good lens (have one myself), and a nice picture of that beautiful area. What F-stop did you use ?
  8. You really captured the beauty in this one !
  9. Thank you @Ceph & @peter shah for support and nice comments ! This image will be an expensive one for me, because it made me realize I need PixInsight. And start climbing that learning curve...
  10. Hi Dean, I like your serious efforts, that is the best way to push the limits. I gave the image a try in PS (CS5) and also used GradientXterminator and Topaz Bundle. You have very little noise, thanks to the 16 hours of data. /Ragnar
  11. Thank tou Des, I am glad you liked it ! Thanks Bryan ! I processed a separate image where I removed the stars with the Straton software, and then I blended that image with the normally processed one, using layer masks etc etc. Ragnar
  12. During two nights I managed to get 29 x 10 minutes @iso200 on this shy target. Postprocessing was not easy, so I ended up with some much appreciated PixInsight processing help from @Ceph - Thanks Jim ! Stars may be a little soft due to extreme humidity, but at least I kept the corrector plate almost clear. C & C most welcome. Ragnar
  13. Yes, that is correct. You can nudge your tubering thumbscrews instead. Just move with extremely small increments (smaller with longer OTA focal length). I would have tried using two screws (one at at time) like this : After 1:st exposure tighten screw A After 2:nd exposure loosen screw B repeat above until half session is spent, then reverse direction for the rest of the night. I guess you just need to touch one screw at a time because the nudging is so small that tubering flexure will allow for it. When you reverse direction, you will probably not spot identical pixel positions (otherwise it would be better to continue the first direction). Ragnar
  14. I modded my DIY guidescope holder with a manual dithering feature (wingnut pair #1 is for up/down, #2 is for sideways guide star positioning). Between exposures, all I have to do is a tiny nudge of the #3 wingnut. I can only dither in one direction this way, but that is enough with my camera which has no banding issues. Ragnar
  15. Very nice Martin - just some rgb for the stars and it´s perfect. Ragnar
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