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lux eterna

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About lux eterna

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    Star Forming

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  1. If you are interested in general photography as well, I would recommend Photoshop. If (when) you are ready for the next steps, there are some handy plugins for PS, some are free while some are commersial (noise reduction, green tint removal, star fixing, vignetting removal etc etc). After many years with PS, I took the step to PI, but I still need PS. I only use PI for the first steps, and it still makes me wonder how you can design such a non-intuitive user interface. On a learning curve scale from 0 - 10, I would put PS at 3 and PI at 15. Ragnar
  2. @tooth_dr This is an example, in "mask mode" I did Image-Adjustment-Brightness/contrast and inverted the mask (ctrl-I). This particular adjustment is "curves" but you can use the techniqe with whatever adjusment type you need. Ragnar
  3. I found this guide https://www.donastro.org.uk/basic-layer-masking/ This "image-as-mask" method can be used in different scenarios, one is selective stretching, another selective colour manipulation. I use it the most for selective noise reduction (targeted for the darkest areas = inverted mask ( = "ctrl-I" )). Remember that you can adjust contrast & brightness etc of the mask while you are in "mask mode" (ctrl-click on the mask thumbnail). Even a gaussian blur of the mask can be done here. You can also use a brush here to add / remove parts of the mask (but that is often better done when you are out of "mask mode"). Ragnar
  4. I like the natural look, relaxing for my eyes. Ragnar
  5. This is good, but there is so much potential with layered processing using masks. I often use a workflow like @BrendanC described, I just want to add a tip: The overstretched image above is just perfect to use as a mask. If you invert this mask (galaxies are black), editing will not do much difference to the galaxies. Ragnar
  6. Can I have two please ? (what an idea... I love it !) The outer halo is very clear so this is promising. Ragnar
  7. Nice catch with the diffuse surrounding areas clearly visible. On my screen I see a little magenta bias so I gave it a try in PS to get a bit more colour separation (colour contrast). Used curves, selective colour, HLVG and hue/saturation (hope you dont mind). Ragnar
  8. It does not make sense with 4 + 3 pin connectors to each motor for just 4 channels used. What could be the reason to that ? Ragnar
  9. Hi all, About a year ago, I got the idea of making a portable mount without need for any counterweights. The main design is (almost) an English Mount with two tripods supporting a rotating bar pointing towards NCP. This is very stable, but one of the 6 legs must just barely touch the ground - otherwise it is not. A slider on a M6 threaded bar is pulling a braided fishing line that is connected to a "windshield wiper" type arm, which is anti-backlashed with a adjustable torsion spring. The lower tripod can easily be replaced with some kind of base kit that fits on a sturdy table or even a balcony fence. Some components : omron encoder E6B2-CWZ6C 2000P/R 0.5M stepper mcu RoboRemo app I can control the whole thing with the small IR remote and / or via Bluetooth LE and the RoboRemo app. The Arduino sketch does PID speed regulation and dslr intervalometer & dew heater controller are also included. Polar alignment is pretty easy with the laser pointer. After careful speed tuning I have approx 75 % success rate (no wind present) with my dslr and TS ImagingsStar71 APO (350mm / F5). I also tried it out with an extra dslr (135mm lens) so approx 5 kg total payload without any noticeable negative impact. This is 350 mm FL @60 seconds with APS-C Nikon D7000. And this is 87 x 60 seconds stacked and processed: And what about the snail label in the pictures ? This project started with the idea of having a snail powered mount, as they seem to go slow enough and need no batteries ! But I settled with an artificial snail - it can run a whole night on 4 x 18650 batteries without draining them. Ragnar
  10. Of course this is just a hit or miss troubleshooting procedure, but I once repaired a pcb that way just by using my hands to feel the slight heat from one faulty component. Which reminds me of another case when no heat was emitted, I increased the current to whatever was the maximum but no heat. I was going to ditch that pcb but decided to push it further so I connected it to my car battery (yes!) with long cables so nothing was jeopardized, and there was a nice flame from the faulty (tantalum) capacitor. Ragnar
  11. You could connect a amp meter in series with the supply and see if the board sinks more current than expected. If that is the case, try to locate any heat source among the different components. Ragnar
  12. I use a cheap laser tool combined with a plywood adapter, to get a east-west alignment line on the ground. Maybe you can adapt this idea to your own requirements. Ragnar
  13. That is a good start, and from now on everything will be easier as you develop the setup and your routines. Perfect timing as you will be well prepared when autumn comes (I think I would have started with the cabling ). Ragnar
  14. I like it very much, not overdone but still very fine details. If it was mine, I would keep adding data to it in coming seasons and the perimeter area could be more visible. Also the red jets (?) in this galaxy would be nice to see. But this is still an extraordinary image - congratulations ! Ragnar
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