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lux eterna

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About lux eterna

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    Star Forming

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    Sweden
  1. Ok, then just forget what I said. I still think the cable (or its contacts) is likely to be causing that symptom. Ragnar
  2. I guess it´s the same cable as I have for my HEQ5 Pro : http://skywatcher.com/product/rs-232-cable/ I am lucky to have a serial port on my laptop, so I need no USB to RS232 adapter. But before you do the upgrade, how did you check the most likely source of failure - the cable from the mount to the handset ? I would suggest replacing it with a standard Cat5 Ethernet cable ("patch cable"), BUT... make sure it is "straight" connected and not "crossed", (compare with the original). I have been using such a patch cable (3 meter long) for years instead of the original curled cable. Ragnar
  3. I like the natural look - not overcooked. Just the core need some more efforts, but it is so easy to overdo this also. If you "HDR" it too much the punch may suffer - which is a bit too much here. But I wish it was mine... Ragnar
  4. The guiding & tracking look good. East heavy is important, but keep in mind that it makes no difference if/when the scope is pointing due east or west (CW is pointing north). Also, a small balance offset in DEC is a good thing (but this has no effect if the scope is pointing near zenith). Anyway, you did catch the Ha regions well and also some star colour . I found the blueish stars to be a little green/cyan - this can be corrected with "selective colour" in PS (and surely with some process in PI). Also, star sizes could probably be reduced a bit. Ragnar
  5. There is a small board with the original power socket (not shown in the pic). Just solder the wires to the original socket (no need to remove it). Ragnar
  6. Could it be a minor collimation issue with the 180ED ? Ragnar
  7. First I did this : But later on I upgraded to this : ...and it has worked perfectly. Ragnar
  8. I can´t decide what is worst - a spoiled night due to clouds and a too optimistic forecast, or the opposite when you commited to something else and by chance look up at the stars. Anyway, you have a very nice image here. Processing is on top. Ragnar
  9. I like that idea, have been thinking in the same path myself. If (when) I will get rid of my most appreciated pieces of astro equipment I would like them to have a new life, bringing the same inspiration to someone else. Ragnar
  10. I am no Arduino expert but I guess the board is faulty. Maybe the reset button is stuck ? If this is pressed during startup, it will not run the sketch. Ragnar
  11. Thank you @vlaiv I may add that the reason I choosed the (Omron) Solid State Relays instead of ordinary opto couplers is that my NexGuide did not like the voltage drop across the opto couplers. These SSR´s have much less voltage drop. Having used this IR thing for a while, I wanted more... like additional working range and two-way communication. The Toshiba remote has lots of free space inside, so I put a small Arduino Beetle and a HC-12 radio module inside it (in fact it is a Bluetooth Beetle but the BT has very low working range). And of course I put another HC-12 by the telescope side Arduino. In the pic below you can see an IR receiver that is placed directly above the original IR transmitter, this is kind of an eavesdropping device for the Beetle, which interpreted the IR codes and then sent these to the other peer. I blocked the outside of the transmitter with some tape, to disable remote IR transmitting. I also have a buzzer here for audio feedback - one signal for "One minute left of current exposure", another for "Wake up ! ST4 signals have disappeared !" (which is a cloud warning) etc etc. The yellow package is a buck converter to feed the HC-12 with 5V. The converter itself was generating huge amounts of RF noise so I had to wrap it in many layers of plastic and aluminium foil, that helped a lot. Ragnar
  12. Some time ago I built myself an Arduino "astro hub" which has three different duties : It manipulates the ST4 signals coming from my NexGuide, going to the HEQ5 Pro. This (almost) cancels out the small and fast PE coming from the RA motor itself. I will write a separate thread about that. Dual intervalometers for two different dslr´s. Handset emulator for the cabled NexGuide handset. The handset emulator might be something you can do in a similar way. (Anyone wondering what that weird "arm" is ? It´s a mirror on a flexible arm, so I can see (in reverse of course) the NexGuide display without breaking my neck. I used a cheap flexible usb led lamp for that). I use the Toshiba remote for this, the bottom IR remote, very small and handy to use, is intended for my current project which is a very small and portable imaging rig. Both remotes can be found on Ebay. Besides a few led´s, the Arduino also has some audio feedback via a buzzer, so I know what it does. Ragnar
  13. Some stuff for my current project, an Arduino based portable and stable mount for wide field imaging. Ragnar
  14. Having learned the hard way, I would say the most important thing is to make sure the power connections are mechanically solid and secure. The motors in a mount are very inductive, and if the power is improperly broken or connected (as in a poor connection), high voltages are generated and the mount electronics are easily damaged. I consider cigarette plugs unsafe. And also the 12V connector in my HEQ5 Pro, so I modified it to a better standard : https://stargazerslounge.com/topic/277896-another-heq5-power-connector-modification/ Ragnar
  15. Having the Stellarium app in my Android tablet, I can hold the tablet to different parts of the sky (facing the screen) and it will "slew" around with me, trying to match the built-in compass and clinometer readings with the center of the Stellarium sky map. Works pretty well. Ragnar
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