MarkAR

Lovely image. I hear good things about Topaz on YouTube, looks like it works well.

Wouldn't be this, he eyepiece definitely has one focus point for the stars and another for the crosshairs.

Looks pretty good to me. I think adding luminance will lift it.

Great effort, no idea about the poorer sections I'm afraid.

Nice looking scope. No reason not to try some AP, the reducer flattener will be a great help.

The only other thing to try would be the diagnostic Appendix 2 and 3. You'll need a spare plug or two to short out the necessary pins.

Wonderful image.

Have you tried the factory setting. It should be at the bottom in the SetUp drop down. https://www.firstlightoptics.com/user/SynScan_HandControl_web191112v3_2_.pdf Also there's a self diagnostic feature.

Stars good, colours good, saturation good, everything looks good. Well done.

But when you get all the little niggles out of the way you'll enjoy all the late nights and freezing weather to come, plus hopefully some stunning images.😁

If you start looking at filters make sure they are par focal, it will save a big headache when it comes to focusing. I think the Baader range are.

Well done.

Can't see why not, just make sure you have the wires correct.

Sounds about right, as long as the position of the adjustment post is correct from the centre and can be positioned north.

I would be tempted to say a cooled mono cam, the Altair adapter and filters. Have a search for the Samyang 135mm users thread, loads of great images and pictures of equipment used.

I think you should be able to select a target and change the date setting.Go month by month and see where it is in the sky. It'll be a bit random and will take up some of your time.

Not sure what's causing it except difference in computer screens. I've used Siril a few times with a little success, I found a YT tutorial that shows you how to use the scripts which is almost like a Push Here Dummy set up. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iVVv5mIb8U0

Much better second time round.

Hot pixels are normal on every sensor. the only way to remove them is to take dark frames. Dark frames are subtracted from the image via stacking. The camera can do it with noise reduction but as you say it's another exposure and time lost. Getting into astrophotography is a steep learning curve, even if you only want to take simple wide field images. If you do not have a mount that can track the night sky you will be limited to around 30 secs exposures depending on the lens (look up the rule of 500). To get the best out of any image, take multiple shots all the same exposure, take dark frames and also flat frames, stack these images in a good astro stacking app then edit the result.

Looks easy enough to replicate, could even add some wrought iron design to it. The main thing is getting the mount plate right. If I had the material I would start having silly ideas my Mrs would hate.

As Dave says, the negative means west.

Yup, still green. What software did you use to stack? I know Siril and Pixinsight both have a green noise reduction tool that gets rid of it.

Yup, port (USB Hub) directly to mount, no handset involved now.

Giant alien spaceship orbiting the sun ! Lovely images, keep going and gifs of proms are always good viewing.

It works 🥳 Plugged in to USB port, launched EKOS, in Mount/Connections it has Baud Rate options and Scan Ports, clicked on the scan and after a few attempts it locked on to 115100 Baud Rate. No more handset jiggery.