Jump to content

Stargazers Lounge Uses Cookies

Like most websites, SGL uses cookies in order to deliver a secure, personalised service, to provide social media functions and to analyse our traffic. Continued use of SGL indicates your acceptance of our cookie policy.

sgl_imaging_challenge_banner_open_clusters_winners.thumb.jpg.6f22fafea012ea83480eb785879332c2.jpg

Tim

Advanced Members
  • Content count

    14,091
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    8

Tim last won the day on January 1 2017

Tim had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

3,186 Excellent

About Tim

  • Rank
    Up Looker

Contact Methods

  • Website URL
    http://russellsgardencentre.co.uk

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Coventry UK
  1. Hi Chris. Good to see that you asked about a purchase before committing to a duffer! Not at all is the answer to your question above, I have won compeitions with mine, but the old adage proves true, you get what you pay for. For the list of objects you would like to view, perhaps a small SCT telescope on a GOTO alt/az mount might be just right for you? Like this one https://www.firstlightoptics.com/se-series/celestron-nexstar-6se.html Hppy hunting
  2. I wonder if the normal rule applies, Cheap, fast, good. Choose any two. ?
  3. Tim

    At least my guiding is working!

    Go for the Whale galaxy, Jellyfish nebula and the Crab? It has been a bit bubbly up there hasn't it. Hopefully settle soon, especially with astro darkness returning.
  4. Great report Alan, very intrigued by the NVD, any chance you could post a pic of it attached to an eyepiece? Thanks!
  5. I dont normally bother with Luminance files on objects without reflection nebulosity. The biggest difference with NB that you can make, is to go for subs as long as you can, particularly in Ha. This will draw in the surrounding hydrogen areas, and, help to bring out the fascinating dark clouds, bok globules, and subtle finer features. 20 minutes is a reasonable target. After this, combining for colour is a matter of taste really, but try to control the white point, minimising star impact and not losing nebulosity. The sky is a different place in narrowband, you'll enjoy it immensely
  6. Tim

    M57 and small fuzzies

    Nicely done, getting anything meaningful on those fuzzies is tricky. Once spent far too long trying to observe the cute spiral next to M57, in a friends 24" dob at a dark site. IIRC it is around mag 17, so should have been doable, but neither of us could pick it out, going to try again this year hopefully.
  7. Tim

    WOW

    Thanks for posting this Wayne, does us good to read reports of peoples first Saturns, indeed a real WOW moment that is not easily forgotten. Wait till you start finding globular clusters, like M13, they are also amazing.
  8. That looks to be about as good as you can hope for. The flattener has done it's job as far as removing coma is concerned, but it cant do much for any spherical aberration which may be present in your setup. Just a small crop and you are good, no?
  9. Looks neat To move my 18" around I use detachable wheelbarrow handles, about 8ft long.
  10. Tim

    Astro Dark Returns!!

    Cant come soon enough for me, tried to do some widefield milkyway images for a piece, not a chance!
  11. Depends if you want the stuff I guess, horses for courses etc.
  12. Tim

    Off Axis Guider Focusing

    Although I have them on my OAG's, I rarely use the helical focusers. I prefer instead to use a Baader clamping eyepiece holder to manually fix the position. Once you have it, it stays the same, and super precise focus is not totally necessary or even always possible with edge of field stars. They are a bit fiddly the first time you set up, but soon become second nature and well worth the initial effort. Looking forward to seeing your results
  13. Reason? My choice would be the unmodified camera, especially if I were using standard camera lenses, no filters. It really depends on what you want to achieve though. A modded camera will give a little extra depth to a few areas of the milky way, but not a massive amount and would still require longish exposures. An un modded camera will still reveal the brighter hydrogen areas, especially around Deneb, while maintaining the standard, balanced appearance of the galactic glow that we are used to. I've used modded and standard cameras for milky way shots, and have been most pleased with the standard ones, and they take a little less processing to make them appear natural. The real answer is, go for the camera with the lowest noise specs on long (30s) exposures, as this will make the biggest difference to the final image when working at that scale. As big a consideration, is the lens choice, you'll want good control of the stars right into the corners. HTH
  14. Brilliant, well done indeed! These one-off, limited opportunity, hard to capture events can be incredibly tense, especially when something goes wrong. Can't tell you how many times I've just missed the key event because of some previously unknown mess up, either mine, or last time it was the software that just crashed out
  15. Tim

    Are you comfortable standing when observing?

    I must admit, although I love my dobs, and will often spend all night freezing my nik naks off at a dark site, they are not always comfortable to use. I experience a wide range of viewing positions as different equipment comes for review. Just the other night I was literally on my hands and knees looking almost back up over my shoulder, not the best. If it gets really bad, you could think about EAA, electronically assisted astronomy. This way you can do your viewing from a very comfy chair, see 10X more detail, and explore the sky in a whole new way. Is it the same as viewing it with your own eyes? No. It's better!
×

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.