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  2. I guess my current reservation is the extra grand for the RA encoder. As my scope is a 8" LX90 which would be 1270 focal length (1.04"/pixel) or 2000 focal length if I ran without focal reducer, I'm trying to decide if the non EC version is already good enough to achieve consistent nights of trouble free exposures (seeing and other non mount caused issues aside). The other factor is that at least from the way the specs are written, it sounds like the EC version is more likely to have a low/smooth periodic error, where as the non-EC just has the peak to peak spec. If it's possible they'd ship a mount with a PE change that meets the p2p spec, but has a few sharp spikes that could be tricky to guide out, I'd lean more towards the EC for that peace of mind. So far though, everyone's factory graphs I've seen have been reasonably smooth changes across the peak.
  3. Steve. Email sent regarding this Item. Ron.
  4. Very nice Craig! I have the same mount and like it very much. Haven't needed the pillar but my scopes are shorter than yours
  5. There are two reasons for dithering (drizzle stacking and noise reduction) and I think you are talking about noise reduction. In that case you can certainly dither manually between subs. However, do you need to? How good is your polar alignment? If your PA is no more than moderately good then it may be that sufficient drift between subs is occurring naturally, especially unguided. Take one sub and stack it onto the next one based on star alignment, then look at the edges of the result image. Are the image edges pixel perfect in alignment? I'd be surprised but who knows? If you have a pixel or more's misalignment between subs I'm not sure what dithering manually will add. For all that, it won't do any harm other than cost you a little bit of field of view at the end. Olly
  6. Much depends how often you want to observe and what sort of astronomy really interests you. Big dobs tend to excel at the fainter deep sky objects and benefit from the darkest skies you can find. That means observing at new moon only and making the commitment to get to those dark sites, often many hours drive away. I wouldn't choose an 20" dob as an ideal planetary scope. They are more likely to require excellent seeing conditions to get the best high power views from, and those dont happen very often. There are other, smaller scopes which will more reliably give you good planetary views. Ultimately a large scope has better resolution, but you can end up waiting quite a while to make the most of that resolution when the seeing steadies. Personally, I prefer to get out more often and for shorter sessions, otherwise I feel too removed from the hobby. As you will see from another recent post of mine, I enjoy a challenge in what ever scope I'm using, even my 65mm Newt I owned a 16" Sumerian Dob for a while, which I enjoyed a few wonderful sessions with, but given that I have a dodgy back, found that I didnt use it as much as I had hoped, even though it was a compact truss design. Lifting a 16" mirror box into the car boot didn't really work for me. The solution I have now is one which I believe I will stick with. It is a 14" 'dob in a box' from Sumerian with a very nice John Nichol mirror in it. In many ways it is quite compromised, not as stiff as the larger designs, but it suits me just fine. I can carry it with one hand very easily and it does not strain my back at all. It is very easy to get away to dark sites and I will use it often in future. Everything is a compromise and it takes time and experience to work out where your preferences lie. Sorry about the random order of the images.
  7. Welcome You might already own a webcam which you try on the planets and Moon. As the Earth is rotating on a static mount you are limited to very short exposures and with your telescope on DSO that's fraction of a second exposure length which isn't enough really. However there are imaging opportunities using a DSLR second hand could pick up a Canon 1100d pretty cheaply (canon is well supported astro wise) then wide field star fields or star trails. Could also look for a motorised equatorial mount second hand, eq3-2 or above which would get you longer exposure length. Read up more before spending so you get what works best for you.
  8. Oh, I thought they looked fine. That's why I asked if you'd worked on them.
  9. Welcome to the hobby. As you can tell already now, the money sinkhole is opening beneath you. I would very strongly encourage you to fully separate visual from imaging. Don't try to make a visual setup good for imaging. I went that way on a NextStar 6 with an alt-az, buying wedge and adaptors and blah blah, only to 6 months later flip the table and buy a small refractor. I made it work for what it could, but it was a waste of money. IMHO, cancel your order of a wedge and buy the star adventurer. If budget allows more, use it all on the best mount you can afford. Use a regular lens and plan your first upgrade to be a filter drawer and NB filters. With such a setup you can go nuts in large nebulae and learn the processing skills, which in the end will take you at least as much time to master as the the data acquisition. Going really deep to galaxy hunting is where your money will disappear at astonishing rates.
  10. One Opticron Adventurer II WP 42mm Binoculars 8x42. Sale New stock, unused, full manufacturers warranty. £79.00 £67.15 (saving £11.85)
  11. Bit extreme for my taste, I have to admit. Love the images with the less "in your face" colouring though. James
  12. I have also considered buying a canon rebel t6i. How would the comparisons be?
  13. That was my first scope. I don't think it's worth attaching a camera to it but maybe a smartphone could get something out of the moon.
  14. Hi, Looking for a Baader ClickLock 2"-1.25" Adapter. Drop me a message if you have one going unused please Many thanks
  15. As long as PHD can continue to 'read' the star it won't matter much, but an OAG will lose a star more easily than a guidescope because it is putting less light onto the guide chip. In truth images captured during cloud will not be worth keeping anyway but it makes life easier if you stay locked onto the guide star so you're ready to go when it has passed. I suspect that, so long as PHD hangs onto the star, you don't need to worry. If the guiding did suffer due to lack of contrast due to cloud, so did the image at that time and you won't want to use it. Olly
  16. Yes I read that thread and many other similar ones when deciding which to buy. Ultimately I decided to go with the iOptron because of the reasons I listed in my last post.
  17. There are 2 types which are mainly used, - Skywatcher Coma Corrector (which is also 0.9 reducer) and Baader MPPC (no reduction) Not sure which is a better one. There are some more, but usually more expensive.
  18. Camera housing for thermal insulation. Shown in transparent blue.
  19. Great images. Welcome to SGL
  20. Tonight's sky With s short bit of astro darkness left. Chose my targets with care
  21. Mr Spock


    Hi Bill, welcome to SGL
  22. Seeing it on the GP really highlights how tiny it is!
  23. One ZWO ASI 120MC-S USB 3.0 Colour Camera. Customer Return Customer return. Tested, all OK and in excellent condition. A couple of very minor marks on main body of camera. Full manufacturers warranty. £146.00 £131.00 (saving £15.00)
  24. I would have stuck with the Orion/heq5 - it's an imaging workhorse! https://www.cloudynights.com/topic/646638-cem25p-vs-heq-5/ (take note of the cem25p careful handling warnings...) Louise
  25. Can I also ask for advice on coma correctors. There seem to be different types. Could you all recommend a CC for the 130 PDS that wont break the bank? thanks again, Andy
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