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david_taurus83

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About david_taurus83

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  1. The stock R&P focuser on each scope. They're pretty good to be fair. Both the same so I can just swap my autofocuser between them. It's got to be a slight misalignment between focuser and lens cell, and then another slight shift in tolerance between flattener, spacers, filterwheel, camera and also the amount of glass photons have to pass through to converge at a single point on the sensor! No wonder Taks are so expensive! As much as I hate to say it lads, I'm glad I'm not the only one!
  2. The only thing I can think of is to put a tilt adapter onto a nosepiece and leave in the focuser. Flattener, spacers and camera threaded to flattener. Dial out tilt. Leave nosepiece untouched from that point on. Framing of an image? TS 5.5mm camera rotator to rotate camera only?
  3. As titled, how common is this problem? I tried the 102ED-R out for the first time last night and my old buddy, tilt, came along for the ride. That's 3 different scopes I've had now that have some sort of distorted stars at the edges. So trying to dial in the correct flattener spacing is difficult as you end up chasing your tail. Stars ok one side, coma on the opposite. I have a tilt adapter which fits in between flattener and camera somewhere but the problem with that is if it's in the focuser, as soon as you change orientation to frame an image any adjustments made go out the window. Example of last night, I started off with a 0.8 reducer, everything threaded connection. No good. So then I switched to the Hotech SCA and worked at F7. Still the same. Tilt on one side. I rotate the camera and flattener 90° in the drawtube, tilt moves from left side of image to top. So its definitely not the camera. Surely I'm not the only one to wrestle with this? Anyone got any tips or ideas?
  4. None of those links show the mini ball head? Is that a separate purchase?
  5. Not really a shot in action but it spends more time in this position than anything else! Changing things up from this: Some difference! To this! 102 EDR is ready! Chance of less clouds later. Hopefully get to do some testing. What's the chances of the flattener working straight off the bat?
  6. I use a WO GT71 420mm F5.9 triplet. I think the Hotech spacing is dependant on focal length more so than focal ratio. Alan's works at the quoted 55mm. Explore Scientific do a flattener for your scope. Have you considered that?
  7. I have one of those. Yes, you can thread 2" filters into the nosepiece. Spacers, you'll have to experiment. Start at 55mm and see how you get on. It's not enough for my current setup. Its somewhere between 70/80mm for me. Still working on it!
  8. Astro darkness ends soon for a few months and the bright evenings means you'll be limited to just a few hours from 11/midnight onwards. Also, going unguided means you'll be limited to shorter exposures, uncooled camera will be susceptible to noise especially with warmer weather. Is the 450 modded? If so you could try something nebulous like NGC7000 but youd need lots of short exposures. M13 might be a good target to try first. A good polar align and plenty of 60s exposures at ISO800 should work. Practice your polar aligning and see how long you can expose for without star trails.
  9. Oddly enough, when I had my 200p I was kind of underwhelmed by M13. Never could resolve stars. Perhaps it was a collimation issue, scope not cool enough, LP, I don't know. But I had my 102mm f7 frac out the other night and at high mag (8mm and 5mm BST) I could resolve stars with averted vision. Had to keep my eye at the eyepiece for a while though.
  10. It's been like that for a while now, I think since version 3.1? I'm not sure but maybe an older version still has the PA tool in the free version? That said, the pro version is a tenner for the year.
  11. You could try a flattener only to image at native focal length. Or no flattener at all and crop out the sides. Ive tried it though and imo I don't think it's worth the hassle as you don't gain much extra magnification from 0.8 to 1.0. And you need to take longer subs.
  12. Sharpcap is good, it has far more control over the camera, can control the mount, platesolve, control filters, focus etc. But APT is better for running image plans, dithering and has a better auto focus routine I find. That said I still use Sharpcap to take a sky measurement and use the recommendations for exposure length and gain in APT. For lunar, solar and planetary work, Sharpcap excels. For DSO long image plans, APT works best. Both great programs and well worth the small price to pay for the full version. Both Ivo and Robin are quite active on their respective forums. https://aptforum.com/phpbb/ https://forums.sharpcap.co.uk/index.php
  13. Here you go! Run APT and under the tools tab make sure the Histogram button is on. Then under the Img tab navigate to your folder. Clicking on one of the small previews on the right loads it onto the main screen. On the Histogram bar press Auto-Str L and voila!
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