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david_taurus83

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About david_taurus83

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    Birmingham South
  1. The best way is to get an EQDir cable which directly connects the mount to your computer. Going through the handset with the USB/serial cable just adds potential issues. Can you post a picture of how you have been trying to connect as I cant quite picture it from your description.
  2. I use a master bias to calibrate my flats. I have a temp matched dark library for my lights. Saves me shooting flat darks each session as flat exposures tend to vary. But your method described above was exactly how I used to work with my ASI1600.
  3. Typically not used with the popular ASI1600 as the ADU count is small. But on a DSLR the bias offset is quite large. On my 6D it is 2047 ADU at ISO1600 out of a possible 16k ADU. So a must for me.
  4. I'm sure it's something I have done to a setting somewhere as it has recently started doing this.
  5. It's a normal mini USB except the QHY version has 2 screws to keep it secured. Great idea but a normal mini USB will still fit. Worth trying to rule the existing cable out.
  6. Cant really help but only suggest what you've already been told. Uninstall the software and download the latest software and drivers from QHY. Before you spend a score on a new cable you could try a normal mini USB cable if you have one to hand?
  7. Has anybody had this sort of message? When I load things up I usually start with PHD2 first. When I connect to the mount I get this message? EQMod still loads and works fine after this. Last night I had issues though. After NINA performed a flip, EQMod kept rejecting the sync after a platesolve. Before I tried NINA I noticed on a few occasions with APT it also refused to sync. Another odd thing is after I disconnect everything, EQMod remains active even though no other software is running. Any ideas? Edit: Using an AZGTi in EQ mode with the Lynx Astro cable.
  8. Just out of curiosity, did anyone recieve their cashback? I have the email that I received after claiming but nothing else? No cashback as far as I can see?!
  9. If you can, get an autofocuser. Great gadget. NINA for example takes an image and then racks the focuser out by a bit and then works back in in small increments and measures all the stars in your image. You get a v curve as you get to focus and as you move past focus. It then calculates the best position of the focuser. You dont need to slew to a bright star. It works on the stars where you are already pointing.
  10. Its magic when you learn how to do that! Makes things so much easier.
  11. The new quad is doing its job well enough. As long as focus is nailed down it works well I the corners.
  12. Not without issues here either. After a good 2 hours early on with M45, the switch back to M42 has been painful. The mount refused to sync after a meridian flip. Been driving me crackers after really impressing me up to now. Been going through the EQMod settings. Noticed my longitude was set to East when I'm West! Eventually found out I'd set Longitude in NINA as a positive value! I've lost about an hour of imaging time but seem to have got it going again. Just means I'm staying up a bit later I guess!
  13. I can see why NINA gets so many good reviews. I've set it to capture 50 x 180s on M45 by which time that's done around 9pm, it should automatically switch back over to Orion, Horse and Flame and gather me another few hours on that. On the drive home this evening through Barr Beacon in Walsall, there was a lovely orange glow to the west after sunset which meant we should have a nice clear night tonight! Make the best of it folks, as it'll be the best one we've had for months!
  14. Thanks Carole. I like a bright centre in M42 but this is too bright. It'll be a first for me but I'm going to give it a go and try and blend some shorter stacks in there. I've seen people mention it and they tend to take a few versions, 10s, 20s, 30s etc. Do I need much integration for the shorter versions? I take it most of the image is masked off and the blend should be concentrated on the core region only?
  15. Best way to take darks is to take the camera off. I had a metal M42 cap I used to put on the ASI1600MM to shoot darks. With my DSLR I put the Canon body cap on and put the camera into my homemade peltier coolbox for darks. Yes, it's a pain to remove them and mess up image train orientation and the risk of dust getting back in, but you know your darks will be right!
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