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Thalestris24

3D Printers

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49 minutes ago, Thalestris24 said:

Oh, didn't know you could do that! D'uh.. I'm still a green noob! But it still sounds like trial and error... Do you by any chance know a way of adding a T2 thread to Fusion 360? I have come across references to doing this via a file in a particular folder but I don't have the files/folders that were mentioned, so unable to take that further. Any ideas on that?

Thanks

Louise

Fusion360 has a thread tool that just creates an image of a thread for modelling purposes.

In most 3D programs you can create one by drawing the thread profile (a 60 degree equilateral triangle for metric thread) and rotating it to make a thread. You could try here  for tips (have to declare an interest in that web site).

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2 minutes ago, Stub Mandrel said:

Fusion360 has a thread tool that just creates an image of a thread for modelling purposes.

In most 3D programs you can create one by drawing the thread profile (a 60 degree equilateral triangle for metric thread) and rotating it to make a thread. You could try here  for tips (have to declare an interest in that web site).

Yes, fusion 360 creates an image of a standard thread from the McMaster-Carr database but it makes it into a real thread if you check 'Model'. Unfortunately, McMaster-Carr don't include a M42 x 0.75 thread :(. The only alternative I've found is to use the coil tool to create a T2 thread from scratch. If anyone knows an another way, I'd be interested to hear. I used the coil tool to create a T2 lock ring. The challenge is really to print threads precisely enough so that they mate properly and work as expected!

Thanks

Louise

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Thought I would share a design I am in the process of printing.
I wanted something that I could mount usb hubs, electronic project boxes as well as my guide scope and second scope / dslr on the back of my 130PDS
The current setup has a set of home made scope rings for the converted 9x50 guide scope attached via a seperate spare scope ring and everything else under the mount on the pier.

This I am hoping will allow me to say a little extra weight as well as use shorter cables and keep everything a little more tidy.
Its setup so I can use it along with another dovetail piggybacked to the scope (which is the current setup) or indeed use it without one if rigid enough.
As you can see there are holes on the side sections for putting through cables but the main mounting holes I will drill in afterwards

image.png.61d44c6744f29eb953c56b6456b3fd49.pngI am in the process of printing this out in black PLA using 24% infill for the main of the print but 70% for the centre section where it will be drilled and attached to the rings or dovetail

Thanks in advance, will get a photo of the finished item once it finishes (19h print)

Edit:

If anyone is interested in using this, here is a link for the required STL files.

Mark

 

Edited by dyfiastro

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How are you going to print this one, I mean what is the contact surface with the bed..?

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3 hours ago, Chriske said:

How are you going to print this one, I mean what is the contact surface with the bed..?

Sorry, Yes there is contact with the bed.
In fact when printing I have rotated it 90 degrees so that it stands on its end. I worked this allowed for the least amount of supports needed and saved around 3 hours compared to having it on the bed as it is.
The image above was taken whilst I was rotating it around to be able to the underside and made life easier as I was not looking through the base mesh.

Depending on the slicing software, it will automatically place the object in contact with the bed when imported.

image.png.39e8be47d5459f05795574a75cce3e5a.png

image.png.5c94bdc42819cfc5df98e434009031c3.png

Edited by dyfiastro

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Why not print these two overhanging parts separately and bolt it together with the main body.
As you're doing it now there's lots of support needed. Wonder if you're be able to remove it easily.

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55 minutes ago, Chriske said:

Why not print these two overhanging parts separately and bolt it together with the main body.
As you're doing it now there's lots of support needed. Wonder if you're be able to remove it easily.

I agree. It would make the overall assembly stronger and give you more flexibility. When printing the main part you could add several sets of holes to allow the other 2 parts to be moved along the axis of the dovetail.

Also If you need to alter the 2 smaller parts in the future you wont have to print the whole lot again.

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3 hours ago, Chriske said:

Why not print these two overhanging parts separately and bolt it together with the main body.
As you're doing it now there's lots of support needed. Wonder if you're be able to remove it easily.

I had thought about printing them as desperate section however figured it would be stronger and easier integrated into the main body, this I may be wrong about and  as this is a prototype it can be changed in the final print if needed. The supports should come away with little issue.

2 hours ago, tekkydave said:

I agree. It would make the overall assembly stronger and give you more flexibility. When printing the main part you could add several sets of holes to allow the other 2 parts to be moved along the axis of the dovetail.

Also If you need to alter the 2 smaller parts in the future you wont have to print the whole lot again.

I may do this in the final design but I am still wondering if bolting it has any real extra strength, I would thought printing it as a single section would be more right, by all means tell me if I am wrong as still new to this. I do like the idea of it being able to slide. Once this is all printed and I have everything set for the final design things may change.

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17 minutes ago, dyfiastro said:

I had thought about printing them as desperate section

Small typo, but made me laugh :)

James

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1 hour ago, JamesF said:

Small typo, but made me laugh :)

James

Ha the lack of coffee, I must have had my crystal ball out.
I have just had 3 powercuts in the space of an hour and short of slicing the gcode to try and restart the print I am going to have to-do the entire thing.

With that said, I am going to take into account what you have all said and go back to the drawing board in regards the design and try and simplify it a little whilst making it a little more modular.

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You know those little strips that the printer lays down on the left hand start at the beginning... I was removing a small bit and, instead of using the supplied tool, I used my finger. Unfortunately, instead of simply coming away, it decided to behave like a splinter and went in under my nail, diagonally, by over a cm. After one of my front teeth breaking off yesterday, I wonder what mishap is next to befall me... #bewareofsharppla

Louise

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Louise I think you should ease off on the technology stuff for a while, bad for your health 😉

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Just now, Gasman said:

Louise I think you should ease off on the technology stuff for a while, bad for your health 😉

I do wonder if the Universe is out to get me - it will in the end, of course! I successfully designed and printed a 45 deg mirror support to aid lining things up on the Lowspec spectrometer, so not all bad. My finger's sore though 😢 

Louise

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I will have to read up on the Lowspec. Even though I have an Alpy 600 the Lowspec seems an excellent project although maybe not quite for 3d novices. Still deciding on a printer so s way to go yet, hope the finger gets better!

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I was a 3d novice when I started. Printing the Lowspec components isn't trivial (for a beginner) and things don't necessarily quite fit together as expected, but has been a good way to learn! I've had to learn how to use Fusion 360 CAD software in order to make changes to some parts. I got the ender 3d pro via Amazon at the end of October so it's taken a month. I'm doing the final optical setup and almost ready to connect an imaging camera for preliminary testing. If all seems ok, I'll then fit the proper slit and grating. It's taken some effort, had some ups and downs, and I'm not there yet, but it's been a useful experience. If you already have an Alpy 600 and guide module, I'm not sure you'd gain anything with the Lowspec. I did it to, hopefully, get better Spectra than the Star Analyser 100 without spending a lot. I had to buy the Ender 3 Pro but expect to use that for other projects. The slit, grating and lenses are the most expensive parts. Fortunately, I got the lenses cheaply from Surplus Shed. The design uses a micrometer which I was lucky to get off Ebay for £20. The reflective slit cost Euros 59 and the 600 l/mm grating was £87+vat. So basically a substantial saving on a purchased spectrometer - but only if I can get it working ok! I did consider making the Uvex3 but the design doesn't actually include a guide module but I think it does interface to the Alpy guide module, so if you already have that, it might be the way to go. I don't think there are any stl files available though - just basic optical measurements (as far as I know).

Louise

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2 hours ago, Thalestris24 said:

You know those little strips that the printer lays down on the left hand start at the beginning... I was removing a small bit and, instead of using the supplied tool, I used my finger. Unfortunately, instead of simply coming away, it decided to behave like a splinter and went in under my nail, diagonally, by over a cm. After one of my front teeth breaking off yesterday, I wonder what mishap is next to befall me... #bewareofsharppla

Louise

Argh! I share your pain - literally, it's happened to me so I learned the same lesson, I use a scalpel now...

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3 minutes ago, Stub Mandrel said:

Argh! I share your pain - literally, it's happened to me so I learned the same lesson, I use a scalpel now...

It was just one of those things doing something in a hurry without thinking. Glad it's not just me though! Lesson learned also - finger is quite sore 😢 

Louise

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6 minutes ago, Stub Mandrel said:

Argh! I share your pain - literally, it's happened to me so I learned the same lesson, I use a scalpel now...

I use a tool that is I think intended for scraping paint off glass.  It's a bit like a safety razor, but holds a stanley knife blade in the end.  I often whiz it over the glass bed before printing just to clean up any bits of material that might be stuck to the bed but are sufficiently thin that I can't see them.

James

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1 minute ago, JamesF said:

I use a tool that is I think intended for scraping paint off glass.  It's a bit like a safety razor, but holds a stanley knife blade in the end.  I often whiz it over the glass bed before printing just to clean up any bits of material that might be stuck to the bed but are sufficiently thin that I can't see them.

James

There's a scraping tool supplied with the Ender 3 Pro - the one time I didn't use it.... I deserve all I get

Louise

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Razor scrapers are useful, but NEVER have the other hand in front of the scraper holdIng the part! We made a jig to hold the print bed so you can scrape with vigour safely. I’ve splintered PLA under a nail a long way once... sympathies!

 

peter

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3 minutes ago, PeterW said:

Razor scrapers are useful, but NEVER have the other hand in front of the scraper holdIng the part! We made a jig to hold the print bed so you can scrape with vigour safely. I’ve splintered PLA under a nail a long way once... sympathies!

 

peter

Sounds like 3D printers should come with a health warning!

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To clean the bed & help to remove stubborn prints, get a cheap 30mm paint scraper, even better, if it has a bevelled edge, that can be honed.... (I get mine from Tesco, I think the last one cost £1.50)

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7 minutes ago, Dr_Ju_ju said:

To clean the bed & help to remove stubborn prints, get a cheap 30mm paint scraper, even better, if it has a bevelled edge, that can be honed.... (I get mine from Tesco, I think the last one cost £1.50)

I got one included with the Ender 3 Pro....

Louise

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I hope it's ok to hijack this thread for a bit and ask about combined 3d printer / CNC / laser etching machines.  I stumbled across an article about the forthcoming SnapMaker 2 and see that there are a few manufacturers doing these.  I've also found some articles on how to add the functionality to a standard Creality CR-10. 

Does anyone have any experience or recommendations?

A cast iron justification for needing one would also help as my wife is somewhat sceptical 🙂

Thanks

Michael

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