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Gina

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Everything posted by Gina

  1. Can't contribute to this discussion as the whole subject boggles my brain too much!!
  2. I'm not using Canon lenses or DSLR but vintage SLR lenses by Asahi of Japan as were fitted to Pentax cameras and ZWO astro camera. These are high quality glass and not plastic.
  3. You might get away with a timing belt depending on how stiff the focus rig is. I have used that method but many lenses are far too stiff.
  4. I wondered what bar too. All the camera lenses I know of have knurled rings for focussing. I design and make 3D printed gears for lens focussing. A large one has a clamp arrangement to hold it on the focus ring and a small one to go on a stepper motor.
  5. Missed this reply/query earlier. See "GinaRep Giant Mk 3" 3D Printer where I use water cooling. No, haven't tried a TEC.
  6. Gina

    Sorry

    I have one - it's a great mount - very pleased with mine.
  7. Though I replied to that!!! Amazingly I was right! That cured the error. Evidently an invisible character in the command string. After a few more sillies corrected, I now have the Concorde printing. Bed heating is a lot better but the heater is still a fair bit hotter than the top of the glass. I think I'll add a thermistor to the top of the glass plate to see what the real bed temperature is. I can wire that up to Heater 2 and display it on the web page.
  8. I'm currently on my 9th incarnation of my cloud imaging rig (I think it's the 9th - I've lost count!!). It has the official name of All Sky Camera.
  9. @Skipper Billy WOW! That is a very comprehensive presentation I have a long way to go to get anywhere near that standard. OTOH it has given me a lot of ideas - thank you very much.
  10. Had a thought... I've come across situations in the past where non-printing characters have crept into code and stopped it working. Think I'll just try deleting the line and rewriting it.
  11. Yes. Here's the latest try where I had over-corrected the endstop adjustment. ; homez.g ; called to home the Z axis ; G91 ; relative mode G1 Z4 F200 ; raise head 4mm to ensure it is above the switch trigger height G1 Z-350 S1 F100 ; move Z down until the switch triggers G90 ; back to absolute mode G92 Z-0.2 ; tell the firmware that we are at Z=0.3mm (or whatever the nozzle height is when the X endstop triggers) Error :-
  12. I don't know what's wrong with G92 but I've got round it by adjusting the Z endstop (or rather the operating lever). Nozzle is at about 0.2 - 0.3mm which is alright for PETG which is what I'm printing. Why things appear to work for others but not me I don't know - but I'm not going to let it get me down. I could get paranoid!!!
  13. Put the above in homez.g but with 1.3mm offset as determined by lifting the bed in 0.1mm steps until the Z endstop triggered then further lifting in same steps until paper just stopped from moving under the nozzle. However, homing Z fives an error :- Nothing found by Googling! Any suggestions please?
  14. I use a 3x magnifier desk lamp as well as reading glasses for soldering and other close-up stuff.
  15. I fell foul of this :- This then is pretty much what I need in homez.g and the Z part of homeall.g G91 ; relative mode G1 Z4 F200 ; raise head 4mm to ensure it is above the switch trigger height G1 Z-350 S1 F100 ; move Z down until the switch triggers G90 ; back to absolute mode G92 Z0.3 ; tell the firmware that we are at Z=0.3mm (or whatever the nozzle height is when the X endstop triggers) Changed the second G1 line to allow for the bed being at Z = 350, the printing height of the Concorde.
  16. From that thread it seems that this is covered in the Duet instructions but I haven't found it!! This G code stuff can be a bit tricky it seems. Easy when you know how, of course.
  17. I may have the answer here if I can work it out but I think my brain is suffering from overload ATM. Guess I need a break.
  18. That's what I thought but it doesn't work. If I manually adjust the bed to be the thickness of a piece of paper from the nozzle and start a print run (having disabled Z homing and bed probing). It prints one layer then drops the bed to 100mm! I'll have a Google and see if I can find anything.
  19. The bed heater is much improved by releasing the bubble. The problem now Is that I want to use a standard endstop for the Z axis same as X and Y but I can't see how to do that in Duet. All sorts of different probes but no mention of standard micro-switch type endstop module. Anyone know how to do this?
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