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Everything posted by Synchronicity

  1. If the alignment is changed when you go back to the same position then something in your setup must be moving. There's no way that mount leveling can change the polar aligned position if moving back to the same place. Could it be backlash somewhere? Michael
  2. I'm busy fitting out a controls box for my newly installed pier. I couldn't find what you described so ended up with this 12v/10A supply with cable splitter £23 from Amazon. https://smile.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B0838TY8BZ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 I'm not using the splitter cable as I have printed a flange to mount a number of 12v sockets on and will run cables directly to that. I also bought this USB to Ethernet link, cost £60 https://smile.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B01EV33R8S/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 I have found an issue with that while testing and am awaiting the supplier getting back to me. With one end connected to my laptop USB and the other end connected via Ethernet cable but no power supply plugged in, the unit still works. It is sending the USB 5v down the Ethernet to power the remote end. The issue is that the 5v is also presented on the power supply input socket. As I'm using the PSU above to power this too the back-feed is enough to light up the power LED on the PSU. I'm concerned what would happen with other devices connected to the common 12v - would it draw excess current from the link and damage it? As I say, I'm waiting to hear from the manufacturer... All the best Michael
  3. I'm studying with the Open University and this site is to be used for today's exercise. I'm still playing. The Illustris project is a large cosmological simulation of galaxy formation, completed in late 2013, using a state of the art numerical code and a comprehensive physical model. Building on several years of effort by members of the collaboration, the Illustris simulation represents an unprecedented combination of high resolution, total volume, and physical fidelity. The About page contains detailed descriptions of the project, for both the general public and researchers in the field. https://www.illustris-project.org/ Michael
  4. I ordered a Optolong L-eNhance filter and a Filter Cell Adapter for my Esprit 80 and for a laugh asked them to send me the cloud free versions. The box has just arrived... The moral of the story is the need to be specific when placing an order! Michael
  5. I usually downloaded the most recent V19 development build because I had lots of issues with V18. How many were the software and how many my inexperience I don't know but V19 is rock solid for everything I use it for. Michael
  6. Me too. I find it more intuitive than many of the other packages but it's really important to understand the basics so that I structure a project correctly. I had several complete reworks to do at first because, for example, I needed to move a plate but objects making cut-outs of the plate weren't referenced to it's position. Michael
  7. Is there somewhere to request changes to the forum? The like button isn't enough - we need one called astoundingly fantastic! for images like this. Michael
  8. Do you know if this will be recorded? If my calculations are correct that's 3am here so I won't be up unless it is a clear night. Thanks Michael
  9. Will you be guiding? Sharpcap PA works perfectly with my Starshoot Autoguider camera and an unbranded 50mm guide scope. One thing that has caught me out a few times is that you need to be aligned within a few degrees (5 I think) before the PA routine will work. Michael
  10. Sorry if this is too basic but are you starting from the correct home/parked position? I found this picture online which shows what it should be like. I'm in Bortle 8 light polluted area and can't see Polaris through the polar scope unless it is quite a clear night and the annoying red light is off! Try doing the setup with the power off and maybe you'll see something? All the best Michael
  11. These two documentaries about the New Horizons mission got me the same way. I watched them both twice in a row. I just intended to post the links but the system had other ideas! Michael
  12. I have the Esprit 80 and my heater is positioned alongside the lenses with the aim of keeping the glass warm. My thinking is that if the dew shield is colder than the glass then it will collect the dew and the glass will stay clear. Ive had this out for over 10 hours each of the the last 2 nights with temperatures at or below freezing and everything iced up by the end of the night but the glass has been clear throughout. I use a CooWoo lens warmer from Amazon. About £15 and runs from a USB supply. Cheap and effective. All the best Michael
  13. The people on astronomy or science forums, social media etc who think its funny to post "Aliens" every time someone asks about something they don't understand. After that, clouds, mistakes that waste hours worth of imaging time, made through inexperience. Clouds again. Michael
  14. The biggest barrier to a crewed mission to Mars is still solar and cosmic radiation exposure. He might have everything else ready but until that is solved only a very heavily shielded - and heavy - spacecraft can take people there. Michael
  15. If you have used external grade cables then sitting in standing water won't hurt them. If you haven't you might need to consider it - especially for the mains power. What is the length of the run in concrete (underground I'm assuming)? It's possible you have a crack somewhere which would let water seep in over time All the best Michael
  16. Mine arrived today - it's well worth the cost and hopefully Aston will keep going learning and writing about his interest. Michael
  17. I keep seeing these amazing L-enhance and L-extreme images and I'm sorely tempted! Thanks for sharing this. Michael
  18. Another bought here, fantastic to see so many of us support this young man!
  19. I bought a Canon 7d (mark 1) when I started about 3 years ago. I had just bought an Esprit 80 and an EQ5 mount so a dedicated camera was out of the question. With that setup I could learn everything I needed to know about setting up, guiding, capture and processing and I could also figure out exactly what I wanted to do and what I'd need to do it. Among the things I learned is that where I live and with the time I can spend large multi filter projects with a mono camera would be really difficult to achieve. I love what can be done with mono imaging but It's not for me at the moment. I've been fortunate enough to be able to upgrade my mount so now have a NEQ6 and I made a stupid impulse purchase of a QHY10 OSC camera a few months ago. I say stupid because the camera is not a good match to my scope (details here). A decent used DSLR can be picked up cheaply and, of course, can be used for normal photography too. That lets you take everything forward for a while and gives you time to decide what dedicated astro camera suits you best. Now that I have my new setup working well I am making a saddle for the DSLR to sit on top of the scope and I plan to have that taking wide-field data for whatever part of the sky I'm imaging. Smashings comment about the gear not holding him back right now is very pertinent. Once you have a setup that works consistently then you are practising everything else from framing to processing. So, no real advice, just some rambling thoughts and experience Michael
  20. There's a rig set up on another remote host site for sale on https://www.astrobuysell.com/uk/propview.php?view=167104 I have no connection to this, just noticed it last night. Get 10 people together as a club, figure out a sharing protocol all can agree on and it's maybe doable? Michael
  21. I have 2 spare which have a 60 mm long thread. If that's any good to you PM me your details and I'll pop one in the post. I got them for my custom designed pier - couldn't find them for sale singly any cheaper than the pack of 4 was! Michael
  22. Have a look at the website https://www.lightpollutionmap.info/#zoom=9.45&lat=55.8555&lon=-4.1978&layers=B0FFFFFTFFFFFFFFFF This shows the sky 'darkness' and should be centred around Glasgow. You can then look at places you can get to and see what the difference is from where you are. All the best Michael
  23. I used these from Amazon. https://smile.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00B2HP3A2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 I had 2 x10m running from my laptop USB port to an unpowered hub. That fed my Canon 7D, Starshoot Autoguider camera and EQ5 Pro mount. Only the SSAG was drawing power from the USB so I got away with it. I've just bought these and am setting them up for a link between my new pier and the house. They worked fine on a test cable but not used in anger yet. https://smile.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B01EV33R8S/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Michael
  24. If running cables where they might be affected by condensation they should ideally be run into the bottom of whatever they are going into - whether that's a device or a partition of some kind. If that can't be done then go in the side but position the cable with a 'swan neck' bend so that any condensation will run away from the termination. Providing a drip point lets you control where the water will end up. Michael
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