3D Printers

[Chriske]

10 hours ago, Thalestris24 said:

FWIW, here are mine:

Sorry it's a bit crooked - the printer is actually horizontal, honest!

The springs don't look particularly strong - spring length as is , is about 15mm

Louise

ps a slight knock of the wheel nuts can change the bed level. They are very loose to the touch, so to speak

Maybe the springs are not strong enough for the task.
You might try this :
Tighten all screws to close the springs completely - do not overdo-. 'Relax' the springs by turning all knobs one revolution(loosening). Now you have maximum force on the bed.
Then level the bed again by only loosening the knobs.

Edited February 20, 2020 by Chriske
spelling error

[PeterW]

Four corners needs care to ensure the result is flat. Mine has 3 screws and only 2 are used for tilt adjust. 
Peter

[Thalestris24]

Ok, I tried tightening up all four nuts. However, that leaves the nozzle about 8mm above the bed... The vertical home position of the nozzle is fixed by the position of the microswitch. I can't see any way to move that up so I'm pretty much back to square one. Looks like the only way to get the right height is to loosen the springs again.

Louise

[JamesF]

Preloading the springs with some washers might help?

James

[Thalestris24]

Now then, it looks like I have to go back to the assembly/bed adjustment... My bed is wobbly - I always thought that was normal - d'uh. Having done some research, it looks like I need to adjust the rollers. I think I probably also need to do something with the springs but must get the fundamentals right first!

Louise

[Mognet]

My thoughts are the same as JamesF. I suspect there's not enough compression in the springs to hold the nuts tight enough. Adding some washers, or printing some, will help reduce the space there.

Tightening the nuts as Chriske suggests is an option if the limit switch height is adjustable. I've not seen an Ender 3 up close, but looking at the manual online suggests it is possible to move the limit switch carriage. And there is a recommended height too, which isn't easy to read

I have a CR10S, and that only needs relevelling if I move it

4 minutes ago, Thalestris24 said:

Now then, it looks like I have to go back to the assembly/bed adjustment... My bed is wobbly - I always thought that was normal - d'uh. Having done some research, it looks like I need to adjust the rollers. I think I probably also need to do something with the springs but must get the fundamentals right first!

Louise

Roller adjustment is something that Creality seem to leave out of the instructions. I only found out about it from watching an assembly video on YouTube

[Thalestris24]

1 hour ago, Thalestris24 said:

Now then, it looks like I have to go back to the assembly/bed adjustment... My bed is wobbly - I always thought that was normal - d'uh. Having done some research, it looks like I need to adjust the rollers. I think I probably also need to do something with the springs but must get the fundamentals right first!

Louise

Well it looks like tightening the under bed rollers seems to have fixed both problems - wobbly bed and loose adjusters. If so, I won't bother with new springs just yet. Doing a quick test print. I don't have anything big I need to print at the moment. I have been thinking about reprinting the Lowspec lid so might do that in the near future 🙂

Thanks everyone for all your help, advice and ideas!

Louise

[Chriske]

Of course there's a gap now.
After tensioning the springs you need to adjust the Z-homing screw.

4 hours ago, Thalestris24 said:

Ok, I tried tightening up all four nuts. However, that leaves the nozzle about 8mm above the bed... The vertical home position of the nozzle is fixed by the position of the microswitch. I can't see any way to move that up so I'm pretty much back to square one. Looks like the only way to get the right height is to loosen the springs again.

Louise

 

[Gina]

Those springs certainly look inadequate.

[johninderby]

3D printed steak? 😬

 

Edited February 25, 2020 by johninderby

[Paul Gerlach]

Hmm, don't know. Why use a 3D printer? Why does it have to resemble something that it's clearly not?
At the moment it does not resemble the real steak but just a 3D printed shape. It would be more easier to press it into a shape (which could be 3d printed 😉).

Edited February 25, 2020 by Paul Gerlach

[Thalestris24]

8 hours ago, johninderby said:

3D printed steak? 😬

 

Looks very unappetising to me! I cook mostly plant-based food but don't have any need to make it into shapes!

Louise

[Gina]

Absolutely!!!  With knobs on!  Nearly made me ill seeing that.  Disgusting. 

I've never seen the point in making a vegetarian food look like meat!  And as for 3D printing food... well... words fail me!!

[johninderby]

Thought it was an April fools joke when I came across it. 

Looks like something you’d find in a dodgy road side burger van. 🤮🤮🤮

Edited February 25, 2020 by johninderby

[don4l]

7 minutes ago, Gina said:

Absolutely!!!  With knobs on!  Nearly made me ill seeing that.  Disgusting. 

I've never seen the point in making a vegetarian food look like meat! 

A butcher in Wales has been producing meat that looks like vegetables.  A "Carrot" made from spiced pork seems to be going down very well with his customers.

 

[Gina]

That's different!  🤣

[johninderby]

 

[JamesF]

I think there could be a place for 3d-printed food.  It's really only like piping on a very small scale.

Making meat-like vegetarian products I can't come to a decision about though.  On the one hand it seems daft to make fake meat from something that isn't meat.  Why not just have the original product in it's natural form?  Or a different vegetarian meal altogether?  On the other, sometimes I'm in the mood for, say, a baked potato with chilli.  If we're trying to eat vegetarian that day, it's nice to be able to have a vegetarian chilli that actually tastes quite like what I fancied in the first place.  And on the third hand, if I really fancy a bacon sandwich and we're supposed to be being vegetarian that day I'll wait for tomorrow and do the job properly

James

[upahill]

I have been having a lot of Huel lately for various reasons. It's a great meal alternative for me, but I have zero interested in them finding a way to package it to look like a MacDonalds...

I think becoming less obssesed about what the food looks like will be better overall, less fancy packaging, less food wastage due to imperfections etc. Might even shift the focus to whats actually important such as the contents of the food.

 

[Stub Mandrel]

On 19/02/2020 at 23:24, Thalestris24 said:

FWIW, here are mine:

Sorry it's a bit crooked - the printer is actually horizontal, honest!

The springs don't look particularly strong - spring length as is , is about 15mm

Louise

ps a slight knock of the wheel nuts can change the bed level. They are very loose to the touch, so to speak

Assuming there isn't a single fixed point, try shortening all of the springs by the same number of turns until you can feel they are supporting the bed securely.

[Thalestris24]

Just now, Stub Mandrel said:

Assuming there isn't a single fixed point, try shortening all of the springs by the same number of turns until you can feel they are supporting the bed securely.

It's ok - I sorted it. Problem was caused by loose rollers under the bed.

Thanks anyway 🙂 

Louise

[Stub Mandrel]

47 minutes ago, Thalestris24 said:

It's ok - I sorted it. Problem was caused by loose rollers under the bed.

Thanks anyway 🙂 

Louise

Yes... I read the last page after posting...

[Stub Mandrel]

Help folks!

Yesterday I printed my 20th mask headband and 18th chin piece then without a pop my printer fell suddenly silent.

This morning I found the culprit, a length of wire and somehow got into the fan and stopped it, it looks like it's blown a thermal fuse.

Although the 500W ATX PSU worked fine, I am very happy with the 150W 12V PSU I use for astro, and I see people often have similar ones mounted to the frames of their printers.

This could be a good time to fit one (and the remote switching PCB for my hot bed).

Can anyone recommend a model they have found safe and reliable without breaking the bank?

(Although I'm beginning to think another ATX supply might be safer as it is fully cased...)

Thanks

Edited April 7, 2020 by Stub Mandrel

[Dr_Ju_ju]

If your budget will stretch to it I'd recommend getting a Meanwell version of one of these https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/AC-DC-12V-15A-180W-Transformer-Power-Supply-Driver-Switch-for-LED-Strip-Light-UK/264540526259

but then I use that type anyway, with no issues....

[Stub Mandrel]

1 hour ago, Dr_Ju_ju said:

If your budget will stretch to it I'd recommend getting a Meanwell version of one of these https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/AC-DC-12V-15A-180W-Transformer-Power-Supply-Driver-Switch-for-LED-Strip-Light-UK/264540526259

but then I use that type anyway, with no issues....

I use a 150W version of those for my astro, but because of the construction and access to the terminals I fitted it inside an outer case with a cooling fan.

Is 180W enough for a Prusa-type rpinter?