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Everything posted by Thalestris24

  1. I don't get it - mine is like a mirror on both sides? Am I missing something? Louise
  2. I was thinking of getting a gpcam3 178m - anyone have one? I was wondering if the trigger mode is actually implemented on this particular camera. AA mention that their Hypercam versions have bigger electronics boards to manage the trigger mode. That implies that the gpcam3 doesn't actually support it even though the advertising blurb says it does (but we all know to take advertising with a pinch of salt...). It's not a deal breaker but I was curious to know. In any case, the camera seems good value for money. Thanks Louise
  3. I think it's the dark side of the dark side! Louise
  4. In an earlier post I reckoned a simple adjustable led would do the job but Ken thought illumination unnecessary - I'll try both . Also, I'm wondering if Ovio may have recently changed the design of their circular slit to make both sides identical ie both shiny? Were previous ones only shiny on one side? (I noticed there was a mark on one side of mine which is a bit annoying though won't affect the slits.) Louise
  5. I guess you switch it off once you've lined up? What do you use for the illumination? Does the white slit back illuminator piece line up ok? Thanks! Louise
  6. Actually, I just took my slit out and unwrapped it. As far as I can tell both sides are identical, both equally shiny. So it doesn't look like it will make any difference anyway. Louise
  7. I believe you ha ha. Here is what my slit holder looks like without the slit fitted. I am a bit suspect of the back illumination part as it has a slit-shaped hole but the position of it seems offset a bit (maybe it lines up - hard to tell without putting the slit in). Anyway, probably best to leave it out altogether if not using the illuminator option? Louise ps I was thinking of spraying the inside with matt black paint as there are some shiny reflective bits in the black plastic?
  8. Hmm... Paul Gerlach's design and assembly has it with the shiny side facing the guide mirror - isn't having the reflective side being seen by the guide camera how the reflective slit principle works? Now there is after the slit an aperture in the plastic which contains the slit illumination part. I'm wondering whether that might interfere? Louise
  9. Yeah, as I say, I can platesolve via the guide scope though it might get complicated using 3 cameras at once! The guide scope isn't precisely lined up with the imaging scope and it's bolted in place and can't be easily adjusted. It is nice and rigid though! So to find a particular, individual star will likely be tricky. But where there's a will... Thanks for the advice Louise
  10. Maybe I'll try the Atik383l+ first (assuming I can otherwise get everything working!). It's a lot less sensitive and more noisy than the qhy183m, and has slightly lower resolving power and spectral resolution, but it will be fine on brighter stars, I think. A problem I do have, though, is in precisely finding targets. I'm used to plate solving. I guess I could use the guide scope with a different (probably new...) camera. It's hard to line up with the imaging scope but I could probably calculate a fixed offset. It's something I'll have to fiddle with! I take it there's no advantage to using a reducer/flattener for spectroscopy? The scope is 115mm, f6.96 without a reducer. Louise
  11. Oh ok - as it happens, I was in fact just looking at the 'back slit illuminator' image in your book That gives me the impression it might be useful for positioning the target star in the slit but it doesn't reference reflective slits. I'll try without first! I've got most of the Lowspec done and assembled but need to finalise the optics and the cameras. I'm not sure which cameras I'll be using yet. I expect just a qhy5l-IIm for guiding. I was thinking about the qhy183m for imaging but maybe that will be a bit heavy - I'll have to think about it. Thanks Louise
  12. I was wondering... How useful/necessary is a slit illuminator? What does the camera see exactly with/without the slit being illuminated? There is an optional illuminator on the Lowspec. I'm just printing the part out in white PLA. There is a connection (a hole) to facilitate attaching and using a Baader Illuminator. They are quite expensive, though - would an adjustable LED do instead or am I being naïve? Thanks for any explanation/advice Louise
  13. Thorlabs are kindly sending me a replacement grating. Great service from them. I just have to return the 610 within 30 days. Relieved Louise
  14. No - I'm happy just to print from sdcard - I don't need anything else. I've probably already done the biggest/longest print that I'm likely to do - the lowspec case which took some 24 hrs or so. I have a Pi from 2017 but really don't have the time or inclination to mess around with it. Printer is working fine as is! Louise
  15. Hmm... that seems out of date? There's no mention of version numbers that I could see though I'm not too well up on these things! Anyway, for the amount I'm likely to use it I won't worry about it. I wouldn't leave it running unattended. Louise
  16. It's a bit confusing as they only mention 1.1.61 on their web page: https://creality.com/info/ender-3-ender-3-pro-ender-5-firmware-source-code-upgraded-i00025i1.html Where on GitHub is the firmware code? Thanks Louise
  17. Hi Steve I'm a 3D Noob and I bought an Ender 3 Pro Specifically for printing the Lowspec spectrometer, though I'll use it for other things too. It has taken me about a month to get to grips with the printer and to print out the Lowspec design. I've been teaching myself Fusion 360 in order to be able to create slightly different parts and to edit the .stl files because things don't necessarily fit precisely. It's been a challenge but quite an interesting one. I'm not a mechanical engineer, lol. I tapped my first ever thread the other day! Fusion 360 is really good, is free too, but there is quite a learning curve. I've been able to use it to make T2 rings and custom holders for lenses. Of course, there are many videos on YouTube though some are a bit old. Some of the optical parts for the Lowspec are quite expensive (for me!) but if you have an Alpy 600 I'm guessing you don't want to actually build another spectrometer? Louise ps I started a separate thread for the Lowspec:
  18. It says on the About menu...
  19. Yes but is there any way I can tell what version of firmware I have?
  20. Ok. How can I tell what firmware version I have? Thanks Louise
  21. Are Creality lying on the Amazon link above?
  22. I've seen that but the recent posts (above) suggest Creality has updated it since August. How can I tell? Louise
  23. Oh well, never mind! Anyway, I just want mine to print parts fairly accurately
  24. Creality say the Ender 3 Pro does have (some flavour of) thermal runaway protection but I don't know how to confirm it? https://www.amazon.co.uk/ask/questions/Tx37GPPGCUY989Z/ref=ask_ql_ql_al_hza Louise
  25. Oh ok, mine does sound like R2D2/morse code ha ha but I quite like I I just have an otc Ender3 Pro but it does what I ask of it. I've no idea what Martin 2.x is either... Thanks for the info Louise
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