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Everything posted by tekkydave

  1. I thought the geometry would be the most likely explanation. Some of the "3mm" filament I had was actually 3mm diameter. I've had 2.85, 2.9, 2.95 and every other value between 2.85 and 3
  2. I thought you were using Sketchup.
  3. Ok, these updates are getting more infrequent. It's not that I'm not doing stuff, just that it's probably not newsworthy. The last few months have been pretty busy as we have had our kitchen done. I'm hoping to spend more time on projects now but we'll see what happens there The only major change I have made to the printer, apart from keeping the Duet software up to date is a complete switch from 3mm to 1.75mm filament. The main issue with 3mm was getting it to load into the Titan Aero easily. The filament path in the Titan is quite 'tight' and the filament often needs to be bent against its natural curl. No problem with PETG as it is naturally more pliable than PLA. But some PLA filament is definitely brittle and I often ended up taking the Titan front cover off to clear out the tiny bits after it had shattered (the filament not the Titan ). The 1.75mm PLA and PETG I have now loads very easily so no more swearing during colour/material changes. One thing I have discovered is that I need to reduce the hot end temperature for 1.75mm filament. For example I have some 3mm and 1.75mm REAL PETG. The 3mm prints best at 250C but the 1.75mm at 240C. Maybe the 1.75mm can heat up quicker in a narrower melt zone or it could be any number of things: The 1.75mm is physically different to the 3mm filament despite being the same Supplier & Brand. The hotend thermistor was replaced at the same time so maybe reporting a different temperature. Something else I haven't considered. I wonder if anyone else has noticed this effect or is it just a quirk of the filament. I've also decided to learn a different CAD package. I have been happy using Sketchup for the last 5 years despite the bad press it gets. It has served me well personally and I will still need to use it from time to time for editing existing models. I don't use a Windows PC which restricts me to the older 2016 version. I run it in a Virtualbox VM and the 2017 version refuses to play ball. Also they will not be releasing any more free versions apart from the 'Sketchup Free' which is web based. I have tried it and it is slooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooow.... I tried Fusion 360 but it also only runs on Windoze so was much slower than SU in the same VM. So I have started learning FreeCad which runs on the Ubuntu Linux I use on my main PC. It works a bit differently to SU but after following an online tutorial and playing around for a couple of hours it is quick to pick up. It is also truly FREE being open source. It seems to have more modelling features than SU and doesn't need loads of add-ons installing just to export to STL or add a fillet/chamfer. All my 3D printing workflow is now Linux based: FreeCad --> Cura --> Duet Web Control (browser-based).
  4. If it helps at all I bought This VA panel meter and worked out the following wiring scheme. The included instructions were very poor.
  5. This is a good step-up converter. I used one in my now defunct prusa 3d printer to provide 12V to the extruder fan from the ATX PSU 5VSB line.
  6. In case anyone is unaware of AppImage and how it works see this explanation.
  7. Just had a look at the github site. If you download the file with the .AppImage extension it should run by double-clicking directly on the file.
  8. Strange - they seem to have removed the old Slic3r PE downloads. Looks like its now up to your Linux distro's maintainer to provide a packaged app. Or , as you say compile it yourself. Shouldn't be a problem if you have all the dev tools installed.
  9. You may have downloaded the sources by mistake. There is a compiled application on the prusa slic3r website Here
  10. Have a look at persistent-serial-port-mapping on the indilib.org site. I have made it work with my mount so it always appears as /dev/mount regardless of which port it is plugged into. I dont know if it will work with 2 ZWO cameras but worth investigating.
  11. For PETG I generally use 250C extruder and 80C bed. No cooling fan except for bridges. I was under the impression that cooling was not good for PETG. Also dont 'squish' the first layer too much like you would with PLA.
  12. How long do the PEI sheets last and are they easy to remove & replace.
  13. Make that +2 The main thing to obtain when getting in to 3D printing is a huge box of patience
  14. Ha ha - we were watching BH whilst having our lunch.
  15. I guess the answer is good ol' experimentation
  16. Anywhere in the open where it wont get dripped into should be good.
  17. I've not posted in this topic for about 2 1/2 years, however: I have recently installed Indi on the new Rapberry Pi 4 and suprise - the ASI120MC works fine with it now. Whether this is due to improvements in the Pi hardware/firmware, OS (Raspbian) or Indiserver who knows but it's working now. I'm in half a mind to start tinkering with Astronomy again
  18. Maybe I'll ask on the INDI forum.
  19. What device do you remote in from? If it's a PC then it makes sense to me to run the resource-heavy parts locally and just have the pi controlling the hardware. It's a personal choice, I suppose and determined by how and where you are connecting from.
  20. It's all Ascom and Indi compliant. The issue is to do with doing the initial alignment remotely. I don't have an obsy so the scope has no alignment when it is first powered up. The starsense accessory will do this for me automatically but it needs to be initiated from the HC. Everything else works remotely just fine. I don't think the mount can be aligned fully by the plate-solving in Indi. In celestron SLT a-z mounts the pointing model is held in the HC which has to remain connected to the mount.
  21. It got hot during the compilation but that only lasts a few minutes. I don't run Kstars/Ekos on the pi. I access the pi remotely from a PC running Ubuntu 19.04. I haven't found a way of getting full remote operation of my scope yet (Nexstar SLT alt-az). I have the Starsense camera which does the initial align automatically but this can only be initiated from the HC or Celestron's CPWI application. CPWI only runs on Windows and needs either a USB, Serial via HC, or WiFi via their own device (SkyPortal).
  22. If you follow the instructions here you can install indilib on a pi from the source code. I have it installed on a pi4 using the latest Raspbian (Buster).
  23. Some things I have discovered about the new Pi 4: There is currently NO version of Ubuntu / Ubuntu Mate that will run on it. You will need to stick at Pi 3B+ for now if you want an easy install route. Raspbian Buster is the only Raspbian version that will run on it. Not an issue in itself but I tried installing the version from the indilib website and got piles of errors. I think their release expects Raspbian Jessie which will not run on the Pi 4. I have managed to install the latest release of indilib on a Pi 4 running Buster by compiling from source. Follow the instructions on the github page at the link. I haven't compiled any 3rd party drivers as yet. I have installed KStars/Ekos on my Ubuntu 19.04 PC and can connect to the Pi 4 remotely no problem. If I can compile the 3rd party drivers I need for my scope (Celestron Nexstar) and get a focuser driver going I should be good to go. I have used the Astroberry focuser in the past and it works ok. I even have the electronics for it already built from a Previous experiment with an RPi remote controller Update - the celestron driver seems to be already compiled & ready to run on the Pi 4: indiserver -vv indi_simulator_ccd indi_simulator_focus indi_celestron_gps
  24. I have a 2Gb version on order from PiHut. One thing to watch out for is the USB-C power inlet and the micro-HDMI monitor connectors.
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