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modded dslr or not?


gary1968

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Howdy, I am currently using a unmodded 1000d for my astro imaging. While I get not too bad results from that I would like to upgrade.

I would ideally love a CCD but funds are not going to permit that for a good long while.

So, I was thinking a modded dslr. I have the chance of a modded 450d, would there be a vast difference in my images using a modded 450d compared to my unmodded 1000d? Or should I hang off and try to pick up a modded 1100d?

I look forward to reading your opinions.

Gaz

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If you dont plan on getting a CCD for a while then a modded DSLR is good. Just remeber you won't be able to use it for normal photography anymore. You will also need some filter I think so might have to look into that. I used an unmodded 450D for 2 yrs and it worked very well for me. If you have the money I think the 450D is better than an 1100D.

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Cheers for that. It will purely be for astro use, the 1000d will be my day time camera.

I use a cls filter and have to use a custom white balance, will that be the same with a modded camera?

Gaz

Sent from my HUAWEI U8815 using Tapatalk

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I have been watching here and on A B&S, not seen any Ian, other than a couple of QHY8L's for upwards of £750...... If I was to spend that I would go the extra and get a new QHY8L.. The 450d I have my eye on is just short of £240.

Gaz

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Hi, thanks for the info. The 450d I am looking at has the Canon IR filter removed, the Anti Aliasing filter is left in to stop star bloating in refractors...... As far as I know it is not fitted with a Baader filter, do you know if it should be?

Gaz

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I modded my EOS 1000D myself, following the instructions at http://ghonis2.ho8.com/rebelmod450d1.html Whilst this may seem a little risky, I had bought the camera cheap on eBay as the auto-focus did not work - I didn't plan on using it with a lens, so this wasn't an issue for me.

It was a fairly straight forward process, which took me about an hour or so. I didn't bother replacing the IR filter with anything as I wanted to use the Hutech IDAS LPS P2 filter, which has built in IR filtering anyway. I was really pleased with the results and managed to capture some fairly good images with it. I have subsequently purchased a QHY8L, as I wanted a cooled CCD in order to reduce thermal noise, but I still look at my DSLR images with pride - definitely a vast improvement on the unmodded camera.

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  • 2 weeks later...

I did a fair bit or research into the modified 450D/500D/1100D choice and in the end plumbed for the 1100D.  I got it for well under £300 new (refurbished by Canon) from Juan at Cheapastrophotography.  http://cheapastrophotography.vpweb.co.uk

You can find a review of his service here.  http://stargazerslounge.com/topic/192996-cheapastrophotography/

My modified 1100D has got seriously low levels of noise when compared my unmodified 1000D and I can get very nice low noise 10 minute subs in cool dark conditions.  I use mine with the excellent IDAS LP2 filter.

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To modify or not may depend on what you want to image.

It does not help stars (clusters, galaxies etc.) but will help emission / planetary nebula.

If you are using a refractor (reflectors & cats don't have this problem) you may find red halos around brighter stars but this can be remove in post processing (see http://budgetastro.com/micro/articals/red_halos/red_halos.html).

I started with an unmodified 300D but had it modified and then upgraded to a modified 500D, abd would not go back to an unmodified DSLR now even if someone offered me a top of the range camera for free.

James

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Cheers for that.... I image any dso that takes my fancy.... I prefer nebula as I find them easier to process than galaxies. My imaging scope is a ed80. I have been looking at modded cameras at cheap astro photography and they seem reasonably priced, but still not made my mind up.

Sent from my HUAWEI U8815 using Tapatalk

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  • 3 weeks later...

Apologies for the thread hijack, but rather than start a new one, I thought I'd add my two pence to this one.

I have a second hand EOS 30D that had mould on the sensor. I used http://ir-photo.net/ir_30dmod.html to take it apart, but it turned out that the mould was in the sensor, not on it, so I couldn't clean it off, even after I'd removed the IR filter. For the last 4 months it has sat in pieces on my desk, as I was waiting for a cheap second hand sensor to turn up on EBay, but last week I gave up and bought myself a 70D for Xmas instead (Amazon France is a lot cheaper than the UK, yet still has the European warranty from Cannon, unlike grey imports from Hong Kong or the USA).

Having read this thread, I had a light bulb moment and rebuilt the 30D without the IR filter. It is now back together and appears to be working. I even have a spare screw. I take it to bits to find out where it should have been, but  one of the shields had to be soldered back into place and the extra screw is probably meant to be under the shield, so I'll leave it for now. Anyway, I don't even have a telescope, but I do have a full spectrum camera, even if it does have some mould lines on the bottom right corner. The lens the picture below was taken with hasn't been used for ages and the sensor needs to be cleaned, but I'm chuffed to bits with the fact that the camera appears to still work, even after I've attacked it with a Stanley blade, a screwdriver and a soldering iron.

eaam.jpg

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It's a brave man that considers opening up somebody else's camera, especially for reward! It wouldn't be the first time one got ruined either :p

I modded my 350D a few years ago, it was a tricky job. There was an improvement over the unmodded as far as Ha response goes, but I have to say that all things considered, the effect was underwhelming. The problem is that with the RGGB bayer matrix, only 1/4 of each pixel is sensitive to "Red" wavelength light. This includes light from emission nebulae, Ha and Sii for instance. If you check the Green and Blue channels of images with a lot of Ha data, there will be hardly anything at all showing in that 3/4 of the chip. Overall effect? You need lots of exposures of decent length to get the SNR where you want it, but doing longer exposures with a DSLR induces thermal noise which is another fly in the ointment. There are some amazing pics out there from DSLR's and modded DSLRs, but there isn't a simple magic formula

It depends how serious you are about astro imaging, and what kind of commitment you want to make, but personally, if I was in your position, I would hang fire and save a little longer, for a decent cooled CCD camera. Second hand is fine, especially if you go for brands with UK servicing possibilities, like StarlightXpress or Atik.

The jump up in quality of image with a CCD is remarkable, you have a whole new range of data to play with (16bit vs 12/14), and you can expose for hours on end, with no need for masses of closely matched darks.

If you really get into imaging, you will likely upgrade to  a CCD anyroad.........I wish I had gotten into them sooner :)

Just my tuppence worth :)

Cheers

Tim

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  • 1 month later...

It's a brave man that considers opening up somebody else's camera, especially for reward! It wouldn't be the first time one got ruined either :p

I modded my 350D a few years ago, it was a tricky job. There was an improvement over the unmodded as far as Ha response goes, but I have to say that all things considered, the effect was underwhelming. The problem is that with the RGGB bayer matrix, only 1/4 of each pixel is sensitive to "Red" wavelength light. This includes light from emission nebulae, Ha and Sii for instance. If you check the Green and Blue channels of images with a lot of Ha data, there will be hardly anything at all showing in that 3/4 of the chip. Overall effect? You need lots of exposures of decent length to get the SNR where you want it, but doing longer exposures with a DSLR induces thermal noise which is another fly in the ointment. There are some amazing pics out there from DSLR's and modded DSLRs, but there isn't a simple magic formula

It depends how serious you are about astro imaging, and what kind of commitment you want to make, but personally, if I was in your position, I would hang fire and save a little longer, for a decent cooled CCD camera. Second hand is fine, especially if you go for brands with UK servicing possibilities, like StarlightXpress or Atik.

The jump up in quality of image with a CCD is remarkable, you have a whole new range of data to play with (16bit vs 12/14), and you can expose for hours on end, with no need for masses of closely matched darks.

If you really get into imaging, you will likely upgrade to  a CCD anyroad.........I wish I had gotten into them sooner :)

Just my tuppence worth :)

Cheers

Tim

Yep, same here - that post got me thinking again. Why throw money at smth that will never ever be anywhere near as good as a 2nd hand CCD...

Which 2nd hand models of Atik or StarlightExpress could be considered?

I'm worried that the chip size in a cheaper CCD is so much smaller than in a DSLR that you end up having to do lots of mosaics? Am I wrong in that?

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I modify cameras for amateur astronomers, and there are a few points to note.....for one you def would need (if canon) a CLS astronomik light pollution filter, to go inside the body.......when you use a modded camera, the sky will produce a possible redish tinge....the CLS will greatly reduce this issue. If your imaging open clusters, galaxy's, globular ect...ect.....then it's not needed, only modded if it s for emission nebula.......I have two, modded.....red zone, and unmodded.......for galaxy, pen clusters ect....

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Hi....sorry for the delay in getting back to you about differences in modded and unmodded, I think the best way for me to explain is to show it in pictures......gimme a bit and I will post the differences in pictures....modded, unmodded, and with CLS filter+modified.

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Wavydavy, I am keen to see the images you referred to.....

I have decided to stick with my dslr for the time being and add a nice long fl scope to my arsenal. I may get my 1000d modded in the future.

Sent from my Tab 3 using Tapatalk and fums.....

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