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james_screech

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Everything posted by james_screech

  1. I've accidentally removed the main menu from CdC, does anyone know how to show it again as I can't work it out?
  2. Take a look at these. http://www.shedshedsheds.co.uk/products/garden-buildings/garden-observatory/ I had a flip top roof observatory made by them last summer. If you want to make one yourself the pictures can give you ideas. Another example of this type of observatory is: http://www.hnsky.org/observatory2.htm
  3. I recently bought a second hand BRESSER Messier MC-100/1400 OTA. When the focuser is adjusted stars move significantly in the field of view, perhaps 0.5 degree per turn of the focuser knob. I assume there is a problem with the focuser not moving the mirror linearly in the tube but tilting it as it moves. This is born out as at times stars become comet shaped, implying that collimation is changing with focus setting. Is it possible to dismantle the OTA and improve the way the mirror moves (re-grease)? I've searched online but cannot find anything myself. Any suggestions would be appreciated. I've found instructions for collimating the scope but that's no good as changing the focus will require it being re-collimated again. James
  4. I could try dimming the panel, I already have an opal acrylic sheet diffuser.
  5. No, the same with the observatory closed at night and no lights on in the observatory.
  6. I've tried rotating the panel and this had no noticeable affect on the gradient, I've also subtracted one master flat from another and I get a gaussian distribution of noise cantered around 0. So I think the panel is fine. I might just have to go back to using a tracing panel (similar to yours) with the scope pointing straight up instead of horizonal. I can only assume something in the image train is moving but I can't figure out what as I can't feel any movement when I put pressure on the camera. The gradient is dark in the bottom left of the image and brightest in the top right (3%-4% difference) as the panel in approximately to the east of the mount, this corresponds to an external vertical gradient due to the sensor orientation. I've checked and checked again that the scope is pointing directly at the panel. I had been hoping to use the EL panel wall mounted and controlled by a USB relay so I could control everything remotely from indoors.
  7. Thanks for the information. However that's not my problem then as my exposure is less than 1 sec.
  8. Nice writeup, you mention that the ASI1600MM-C give gradients on longer exposure flats, that's exactly the problem I've trying to solve for weeks since mounting a EL flat panel on the wall of my new observatory. Do you know what exposure is needed to avoid the gradients?
  9. Teamviewer did the same for me, I filled out there non-commercial use form and after a few weeks it started working again, 4 months later it stopped again. So I now use TightVNC.
  10. Something a bit different but still using a CCD/CMOS/DSLR camera, photometry of a variable star. Possibly a time series or an eclipsing binary, or short period pulsating star.
  11. Can some one recommend windows software for an all sky camera. Ideally something that will run on XP as I was hoping to use my old ASI120MM / XP netbook for an all sky camera. Though I do have a spare Win7 netbook I could use instead. I'm aware of AllSkEye (doesn't support XP though ). James
  12. Is there any free small application that can be used to measure FWHM / HFD from fits / DSLR images. Thank you James
  13. Comet C/2020 F3 NEOWISE, Canon 7D Tamron 150-600 at 150mm, f5, ISO800 on a fixed tripod.
  14. I'm currently having dealings with ShedShesSheds, I'm have a fold down roof observatory built by them, should have it in a few weeks. If you contact them use the mobile number as they tent not to respond to email, and one of the land lines (the one you need) on their website is wrong. James
  15. I have a set of oldish ZWO LRGB filters, I just used eXcalibrator to estimate their colour balance ratios with my Atik414ex to try and improve my colour balance. I was very surprised at the results, which explain my problems with getting colour balance looking natural: R: 1.00 G: 2.07 B: 2.44 Green and blue need more than twice the exposure of the red! Can anyone recommend a filter set which will give a better colour balance for both my Atik414ex and ASI1600MM. I know ZWO have a set that are balanced for the 1600. Are they likely to be any good with the Atik as well or would I be better getting a set of Baader filters and comprimise between the two cameras? James
  16. IS never produced an ASCOM driver for their cameras. I contacted them years ago about it and they said that they weren't astronomers and weren't interested in producing drivers just for them. That was the main reason I stopped using their cameras. James
  17. The Canon 200mm f2.8 is reasonable, nice field of view for larger objects like M31, M44 & M45. There is some distortion of bright stars towards the edge of the frame, but nothing that can't be fixed in post processing. James
  18. YZ Boo a DSCT type variable with a period of 2h 29m. Atik414ex with a V filter, ED70 telescope on an AVX mount. 886 20 sec exposures.
  19. Added a second night's data so now 65 x 180sec for each filter and processed a bit more carefully.
  20. Your not the first to say that. 🤣
  21. Hi Pete, No I use https://transit-finder.com/ James
  22. My first LRGB deep sky image. Atik 414ex, ZWO LRGB filters & ED70 (f6) telescope. Captured with APT, processed in DSS & PS. 35 x 3min subs in each filter, dark, bias and flat corrected. I have done DSLR deep sky in the past (a few years ago) but not mono CCD & LRGB. Not great processing the brighter stars have a blue halo that could do with some work, but I'm pleased for a first attempt at processing. I'll spend some more time playing with it when I get the time. James
  23. I had a tent observatory for a while, there was a huge problem with condensation though. Everything inside will need water proof covers when not in use, I would not recommend them for long term use. James
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