Jump to content

Stargazers Lounge Uses Cookies

Like most websites, SGL uses cookies in order to deliver a secure, personalised service, to provide social media functions and to analyse our traffic. Continued use of SGL indicates your acceptance of our cookie policy.



Advanced Members
  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

175 Excellent

1 Follower

About bdlbug

  • Rank

Profile Information

  • Location
  1. bdlbug

    ASI1600 first light

    welcome to the world of ASI1600 CMOS imaging - and yes you do get amazing sensitivity for ridiculously short integration times - as you have doubtless researched this camera does need BIAS frames in the stack and despite all the reading about pros and cons I also shoot and include darks and dark flats to compensate for the 'amp glow' demons that lurk in the camera chip and readout electronics. I dont have the 'Pro' version but I believe amp glow can still affect the Pro I have done several single night LRGB images and although the deeper integration times of the amazing images posted here can justify the hours of imaging time, I find its a good camera to deliver a decent result in a relatively short time of a few hours within the weather windows we get in UK. I did a 2 hr LRGB M45 last week and that was my WOW moment despite having had the camera for nearly a year - if RGB is what your planning then vertical plans in APT are another way to get something out of a relatively short imaging session making use of the short subs on each filter. I have quite a bit of LP so recently invested in a IDAS light pollution filter, the latest D2 variant and it has helped significantly in reducing gradients in my LRGB images. I prefer RGB images so this D2 route helps achieve it either that or a lot of use of astroflat pro in PS or DBE in PI All the best with this camera - I certainly have got a lot more out of astro imaging since moving from 600D to ASI1600 Bryan
  2. Its a ASI1600MM-Cool, I use these settings in the APT cooling aid, never had condensation issues before. Bryan
  3. @geoflewis, @wornish, thank you for your comments, like you I am very much a RGB fan and despite our infrequent clear nights and battles with light pollution, sensitive imaging technology based on CMOS is making fast grab and go imaging like this achievable on a school night - although getting up and out to work on Friday was tough, it was a double espresso wake up shot to get me out there... @RolandKol, so the spikes - I said I had a few niggles when I started to image - I had condensation on the camera window - so I had to stop, warmup cycle the camera and clean the camera front window - that may explain the large spikes, although I have seen smaller diffraction spike on bright stars from this scope and FF/FR combination. I may invest in the ASI1600 anti-dew heater from FLO to try and avoid this issue in the future. https://www.firstlightoptics.com/zwo-accessories/zwo-anti-dew-heater-strip-for-asi-cooled-cameras.html Bryan
  4. These are a couple of images I took last Thursday night through into early Friday morning, went out late, had a few setup niggles but by 11pm everything was doing the right thing. I set up the M45 imaging session in APT as a vertical plan, so it takes a sub through each filter in turn so if the imaging session is interrupted then you at least have data from every filter selected. M45 by 1am was heading over towards the meridian and into my dreaded bubble of logistics center light pollution, so I stopped the session - 2hrs , 30 min each of LRGB in 120s subs. The moon, although only around 40% illuminated was up so I decided to go on with Ha(7nm) only and as Orion was well positioned it was either M42 or Horsehead, I decided Horsehead and set up the plan to run for 2 hrs and use 300s subs. I have had the ASI1600 for nearly a year now, but its sensitivity on unity gain 139/21 is amazing and although these images have quite a bit of noise I am reasonably happy to post them up for everyone to view. The Horsehead focus is slightly soft, my fault for not checking after I slewed over to HH, so its had a bit of de-convolution applied in PI All taken through At106ED with 0.75X reducer/FF and IDAS D2 LPF and Baader LRGBHa(7nm) mounted on AZ EQ6 Captured with APT, processed APP, PI, PS Bryan
  5. bdlbug

    First ever attempt at HaRGB on NGC6888

    Mike read through this thread - a lot of information and option regards Blending Ha in a RGB image Bryan
  6. bdlbug

    First ever attempt at HaRGB on NGC6888

    Great image - but using 100% Ha as luminance substitute is not something I do . Ha is as you’ve found out is a ‘red’ channel enhancement and Olly Penrice has written many posts with his methodology to copy your RGB image red channel into a new temp image then copy in your Ha image as a percentage (varies but around 30% as a start) and use blend mode lighten to combine as this will only change or enhance Ha reds when the level exceeds that in your original red channel so the stars will not take on a weird colour as they don’t have enhanced Ha emission - I’m on my mobile so can’t link to one of Olly’s posts but I’m sure someone will. that should help you get rid of the salmon pink
  7. bdlbug

    Messier33 The Triangulum Galaxy in HaLRGB

    Dave fantastic image - I also tried my hand at M33 a few weeks ago , same camera similar RGBHa concept but on a 106 refractor. I didn’t manage to capture as much detail as your image -I had no L - think that I now should try for some L although M33 is heading westwards and into a bunch of light pollution from large warehouse park. Anyway thanks for posting and it’s a great image and the processing has as others have said really highlighted the Ha but you’ve also got good definition in the spirals, oh and colour balance is excellent- I struggled with that in PI and PS, but you have got it spot on IMHO great work and thanks for posting - helps push us all onwards and hopefully upwards Bryan
  8. Basically you don't - there is vignetting in the subs with this setup and taking a good set of flats are a must and incorporating flats into the stacking corrects the optical vignetting. I create flats for every filter - some people may say that this is overkill and use only one set of flats taken through 'L' filter. Bryan
  9. bdlbug

    Filter and spacers sanity check please

    @david_taurus83, Yes I have imaged with this filter, only one session so far - but the sky transparency was not very good, it got worse as I moved through filters to red, I also think I need to review the back focus as the addition of this filter, substrate thickness 2.5mm - from Teleskop-Express website technical data - as my focus didn't seem as sharp - as usual add something new and it takes a bit of time fine tuning to get back to a performance point you're happy with - anyway My first light experience is in this topic below that I posted a couple of weeks ago Bryan
  10. bdlbug

    Filter and spacers sanity check please

    I had exactly the same issue a few weeks ago puuting the D2 into my optical path and as you mention in your original post the threads on the filter are extremely shallow and would potentially fail under load or flex - So I resorted to creating a DIY 'built in' filter in the spacers/adapters and deconstructed the filter using a special tool from Amazon. From what you have discussed above it seems you are still putting the M48 filter body into a mechanically loaded train of spacers - " Camera >M42-M48 > Filter >M48-M48 > Focal reducer " Have a read of my discussion on this topic - it may be useful - although it was very scary dismantling such an expensive filter !! thanks
  11. I bought the components from UK supplier and sponsor of this site, First Light Optics, FLO - these are the parts on their website and the part numbers are slightly different from your description as in they dont have 'V' but they are R-100, DUP7 https://www.firstlightoptics.com/adm-guide-rings/adm-guidescope-rings.html https://www.firstlightoptics.com/dovetails-saddles-clamps/adm-losmandy-style-universal-dovetail-bars.html
  12. I have been asked by a few forum members to detail how I built my imaging rig based around the Samyang 135mm f2 lens and ASI1600MM CMOS camera. A number of people asked within the topics /images I posted last year of M31, Andromeda and Orions Belt / Sword and the topic recently reappeared thanks @StarManFlorida For the specific imaging configuration that I used for these images and the components used are ZWO ASI1600MC ZWO Mini 5 position EFW fitted with Baader 1.25" LRGB+Ha(7nm) filters ZWO EOS-T2 Lens adapter ZWO Camera holder ADM _losmandy_dovetail-2ADM Losmandy-type Universal Dovetail bars :7" imperial ADM_Guidescope_Finderscope_Rings_100mmADM Guide scope Rings including the mounting block to equalize height of camera mounting The component you might think looks like a dual ring saddle up front on the lens is a Microfocuser, as explained below, getting accurate fine focus by manually twisting the lens is impossible - possibly a better solution some other people have built is to use a belt drive with a ASCOM controlled focusing motor - but a delicate touch and very good focus can be achieved with this mechanism. If you want to investigate the motorised option then you can probably google 'widefield rigs' and see some good examples. It does take a little bit of figuring out the best way to clamp the device onto the lens, and also, it will not fit from the front of the lens so remember to fit it at least onto the lens before yoy connect the lens to the EOS-T2 adapter - I of course worked this out the hard way. The TeleFokus was created to solve an everyday problem of astro imaging. Focusing astro images precisely can be extremely difficult. The focusing mechanism of standard camera lenses is not really up to the task. A very fine movement of the focusing mechanism already changes focus by a larger amount than desired. Even if perfect focus is found it is often lost again because the focus cannot be locked. The TeleFocus can be fitted on most standard lenses and provides both a very fine focusing movement and also a focus lock.https://www.teleskop-express.de/shop/product_info.php/info/p3285_Microfocuser-and-focus-lock-fuer-camera-lenses-up-to-D-80mm.html The ZWO components , within the red bar on image below, all fit together very well and result in the correct 44mm backfocus required by the camera lens - one point to note is that you have to remove the T2 extender that is factory fitted (at least it was on the camera when I bought it new) and screw the mini EFW directly onto the camera body, otherwise the backfocus will be wrong once you fit the EOS-T2 adapter on the opposite side of the EFW. Additional Information The camera requires an additional 12v power feed so the cooler operates effectively, that is the thick orange cable in image below - I use a 'lab' power supply as I have a fixed obsy with power feed, it can of course be supplied by a battery based PSU. The link back to the laptop is via a 3m USB 3 cable The ASI1600 has an integrated USB hub so I used the short link cable supplied with the EFW to link the EFW into the laptop USB network Software All controlled via ASCOM APT used to control camera and drive imaging sessions Cartes du Ciel used to drive goto functionality of the software I operate the camera at a set point temperature of -20degC Hope this information helps you build your own rig
  13. bdlbug

    M33 WIP now with DSLR colour

    Wow - so I got a similar result as @tooth_dr with my M33 But the calibration through PI by @moise212 is a revelation the colour really was there but not balanced ? I am seriously starting to think I need to invest in PI as another tool in the processing box
  14. Thank you Peter - really appreciate your comments, regards the outer arms, yes trying to push the image to get some detail there without creating a mess of noise and control the remainder of the galaxy and also try to preserve the star colour - all bring their own processing challenge - particularly with this image I watched more advanced processing tutorials and used different (new to me) masking and layers techniques to help highlight detail but not obliterate the image with noise. I also applied a PS plugin called ClariSky, https://photographingspace.com/product/clarisky/ -It is sold for enhancing milkyway images , but it does bring something to dust-lanes in galaxy processing. My biggest challenge was my red channel as it was significantly 'softer' than the blue and Green, This is extract from the APP report in order, Blue, Green, Red Think this was probably due to the high cloud during my imaging time, as I have found the Baader filters to be very parafocal so not requiring refocus when I change filter. Hopefully can revisit this target with more transparent skies before it goes too far west and is 'lost' in the light pollution bubble of logistics warehouses. thanks Bryan
  15. Thanks Adam - thought it looked better but when you are in front of screen for hours it helps to have a informed second opinion- I’ll see if I can reprocess and reduce the noise as the APP version was a bit of a smash and grab process Bryan

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.