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bdlbug

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About bdlbug

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    Northampton
  1. thanks @blinky glad you like the image - I was quite surprised that there was this amount of colour in the image, its remarkable that an impromptu moon imaging session resulted in such a decent result, especially that I'm not overly familiar with video capture via BackyardEOS or had never used Astrostakart or ICE before - I just let the software do its thing. Bryan
  2. this is my first lunar image, I'm usually out in the deep space stuff, but last night for a couple of hours there were no clouds and I set up my 72ED on Star Adventurer and put 600D on the end. Used the Live View video capture using 5X ROI - so this is a mosaic using 30 AVI video stacks of 500 frames each, I used AstroStakkert (a first for me), Microsoft ICE to stitch and composite the image , then into Photoshop for some creative fun with curves, sharpening and saturation. Possibly OTT with the colouring - but here we have my FULL MOON, with no worms to see here ( @Stu ) Bryan
  3. I also prefer your reworked second version - I have this target as WIP but not to the same resolution as this - I’ve only got luminance so far. anyway really pleased you ‘found’ colorcalibration Bryan
  4. @DaveS , I agree I see the same colour cast I've just download the JPG from OP @Datalord and pushed it through a PI ColorCalibration and SNCR, result below - the detail is fantastic, dark Spanish sky certainly delivers
  5. I started this project mid-November last year with 2hrs of Ha and 1 hr of luminance, it then went downhill from there. Like everyone else I have been exasperated by the amount of continuous cloud cover over the last few months. It has taken until end of January (30th) to manage to capture an hour each of RGB and another hour of Luminance. There are 7 hrs of data in this image but I am frustrated with this image as its not as 'crisp' and impactful as I think I could achieve - I think it is a result of desperation making do with any sort of sub to create an image this season just because clear skies have been in such short supply. So rather than say out of an iffy 3 hr session only 2 hrs of data might make the cut, now it is a case of I have 3 hrs of data I'm going to use 3 hrs of data regardless. Although it looked clear on 30th, there must have been high cloud and my RGB was very soft despite the attentions of my new motorised focus setup, but given my argument above I've used all that data regardless and as a consequence dodgy data impacts the final result. I don't think I will be able to get any more time on the horsehead this winter as by the time I can get outside on these incredibly rare clear nights Orion is already nearly past the meridian and into the distribution park light pollution bubble and my neighbour's trees to my west. So in summary an image of horsehead and Flame nebula consisting of 2 hrs Ha(7nm) , 2hrs luminance, 1 hr each of RGB, so 7 hrs in total - all 120s subs. Processed with APP to stack, PI to denoise the integrated subs and DBE, RegiStar to register each channel and combine RGB, then PS to stretch combine Ha (added to Red channel with Blend mode lighten) and finish. I am frustrated at the amount of noise and also Alnitak dominates, and shows the SQUARE halo associated with the microlenses used on CMOS sensors in my case ASI1600 - this is the first time in 2 years of use I have actually had this type of artifact on any image. Also I did find it incredibly hard to get a white balance on this image so I used PI ColorCalibration and then some tweaks in PS , whch is the first image , I then tried PI PhotometricColorCalibration, which is the second version, any opinions as to which version is the 'better' rendition are welcome. Bryan
  6. welcome to the world of ASI1600 CMOS imaging - and yes you do get amazing sensitivity for ridiculously short integration times - as you have doubtless researched this camera does need BIAS frames in the stack and despite all the reading about pros and cons I also shoot and include darks and dark flats to compensate for the 'amp glow' demons that lurk in the camera chip and readout electronics. I dont have the 'Pro' version but I believe amp glow can still affect the Pro I have done several single night LRGB images and although the deeper integration times of the amazing images posted here can justify the hours of imaging time, I find its a good camera to deliver a decent result in a relatively short time of a few hours within the weather windows we get in UK. I did a 2 hr LRGB M45 last week and that was my WOW moment despite having had the camera for nearly a year - if RGB is what your planning then vertical plans in APT are another way to get something out of a relatively short imaging session making use of the short subs on each filter. I have quite a bit of LP so recently invested in a IDAS light pollution filter, the latest D2 variant and it has helped significantly in reducing gradients in my LRGB images. I prefer RGB images so this D2 route helps achieve it either that or a lot of use of astroflat pro in PS or DBE in PI All the best with this camera - I certainly have got a lot more out of astro imaging since moving from 600D to ASI1600 Bryan
  7. Its a ASI1600MM-Cool, I use these settings in the APT cooling aid, never had condensation issues before. Bryan
  8. @geoflewis, @wornish, thank you for your comments, like you I am very much a RGB fan and despite our infrequent clear nights and battles with light pollution, sensitive imaging technology based on CMOS is making fast grab and go imaging like this achievable on a school night - although getting up and out to work on Friday was tough, it was a double espresso wake up shot to get me out there... @RolandKol, so the spikes - I said I had a few niggles when I started to image - I had condensation on the camera window - so I had to stop, warmup cycle the camera and clean the camera front window - that may explain the large spikes, although I have seen smaller diffraction spike on bright stars from this scope and FF/FR combination. I may invest in the ASI1600 anti-dew heater from FLO to try and avoid this issue in the future. https://www.firstlightoptics.com/zwo-accessories/zwo-anti-dew-heater-strip-for-asi-cooled-cameras.html Bryan
  9. These are a couple of images I took last Thursday night through into early Friday morning, went out late, had a few setup niggles but by 11pm everything was doing the right thing. I set up the M45 imaging session in APT as a vertical plan, so it takes a sub through each filter in turn so if the imaging session is interrupted then you at least have data from every filter selected. M45 by 1am was heading over towards the meridian and into my dreaded bubble of logistics center light pollution, so I stopped the session - 2hrs , 30 min each of LRGB in 120s subs. The moon, although only around 40% illuminated was up so I decided to go on with Ha(7nm) only and as Orion was well positioned it was either M42 or Horsehead, I decided Horsehead and set up the plan to run for 2 hrs and use 300s subs. I have had the ASI1600 for nearly a year now, but its sensitivity on unity gain 139/21 is amazing and although these images have quite a bit of noise I am reasonably happy to post them up for everyone to view. The Horsehead focus is slightly soft, my fault for not checking after I slewed over to HH, so its had a bit of de-convolution applied in PI All taken through At106ED with 0.75X reducer/FF and IDAS D2 LPF and Baader LRGBHa(7nm) mounted on AZ EQ6 Captured with APT, processed APP, PI, PS Bryan
  10. Mike read through this thread - a lot of information and option regards Blending Ha in a RGB image Bryan
  11. Great image - but using 100% Ha as luminance substitute is not something I do . Ha is as you’ve found out is a ‘red’ channel enhancement and Olly Penrice has written many posts with his methodology to copy your RGB image red channel into a new temp image then copy in your Ha image as a percentage (varies but around 30% as a start) and use blend mode lighten to combine as this will only change or enhance Ha reds when the level exceeds that in your original red channel so the stars will not take on a weird colour as they don’t have enhanced Ha emission - I’m on my mobile so can’t link to one of Olly’s posts but I’m sure someone will. that should help you get rid of the salmon pink
  12. Dave fantastic image - I also tried my hand at M33 a few weeks ago , same camera similar RGBHa concept but on a 106 refractor. I didn’t manage to capture as much detail as your image -I had no L - think that I now should try for some L although M33 is heading westwards and into a bunch of light pollution from large warehouse park. Anyway thanks for posting and it’s a great image and the processing has as others have said really highlighted the Ha but you’ve also got good definition in the spirals, oh and colour balance is excellent- I struggled with that in PI and PS, but you have got it spot on IMHO great work and thanks for posting - helps push us all onwards and hopefully upwards Bryan
  13. Basically you don't - there is vignetting in the subs with this setup and taking a good set of flats are a must and incorporating flats into the stacking corrects the optical vignetting. I create flats for every filter - some people may say that this is overkill and use only one set of flats taken through 'L' filter. Bryan
  14. @david_taurus83, Yes I have imaged with this filter, only one session so far - but the sky transparency was not very good, it got worse as I moved through filters to red, I also think I need to review the back focus as the addition of this filter, substrate thickness 2.5mm - from Teleskop-Express website technical data - as my focus didn't seem as sharp - as usual add something new and it takes a bit of time fine tuning to get back to a performance point you're happy with - anyway My first light experience is in this topic below that I posted a couple of weeks ago Bryan
  15. I had exactly the same issue a few weeks ago puuting the D2 into my optical path and as you mention in your original post the threads on the filter are extremely shallow and would potentially fail under load or flex - So I resorted to creating a DIY 'built in' filter in the spacers/adapters and deconstructed the filter using a special tool from Amazon. From what you have discussed above it seems you are still putting the M48 filter body into a mechanically loaded train of spacers - " Camera >M42-M48 > Filter >M48-M48 > Focal reducer " Have a read of my discussion on this topic - it may be useful - although it was very scary dismantling such an expensive filter !! thanks
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