wxsatuser

http://www.ars-electromagnetica.de/robs/

Can beginners give better help than more accomplished imagers. 🤔 May be down there in the DSO imaging section it is a bit more intimidating for DSLR imagers. I know it was for me, still is because I'm a rubbish CCD imager. 😁 As to the blue stars A DSLR will quickly saturate most bright stars to white, there may be some colour in the halo. Drop the ISO and may be the sub length to stop the stars saturating.

That's ok no problem. Personally I would ditch the Barlow and put the ISO as high as possible and see how long you can go, the longer the better. 5secs is really to short.

What scope are you using?

Not surprised if they are dim at 5secs. Why do you need a barlow?

5seconds or less is not going to be much good, if it was with very fast glass and high ISO it might be ok.

In the UK......🤔

They are very nice filters and worth the outlay. I have the LRGB set plus the Ha 5nm , got them secondhand at a good price.

Nice donuts.........check your focuser is not slipping.

Bit of a beast to start AP with, most likely you will need guide. Some one who has used one will no doubt give you some tips.

I suppose it's not the mirror when its up, it might just get in the light path. I had a similar thing on the 6D with a Astronomik lp filter in place it just left a band but if I remeber right it was'nt coloured.

You don't need to remove these unless the plane ones are really close. Correct stacking and more than 12 subs will get rid of any satellites and most planes.

Don't use APT but I let the Atik software bring the camera but to ambient before switching off.

I normally check several stars and if they are close that will do.

No! Third of a second will not cut it, not even at 6400 iso.

Yes the sdr does see more spectrum but the filter sets the bandwidth of one portion, the bit your interested in. If the sat appears off filter it will not be heard in most cases. Think your settings are ok but open up the filter a bit, if your not tracking frequency, 40k in the top right corner, gives it some breathing space. I don't use SDRplay but use a 50k filter in SDR Console which works ok. Turn off the NB it's on NBW.

The satellite frequencies are wrong in wxtoimg. Go into options active sats and change them, also knock off NOAA 17 as that is no more. NOAA 15 137.620 NOAA 18 137.9125 NOAA 19 137.100 You can find up to date NOAA APT frequencies here https://www.ospo.noaa.gov/Operations/POES/status.html

Did you have up to date keps. V Dipole/ http://rfelektronik.se/manuals/Datasheets/DIY 137MHz WX-sat V-dipole antenna.pdf

It's a great guider and on my HEQ5 Pro it's miles better than PHD.

Someone I know used to drive a truck (big rig) from the southcoast here to Aberdeen and back in a day.

True but you pays your money etc. I have built a QFH in the past but it was'nt to good. 😁

199Euros plus some shipping from Wimo in Germany, came in about 3days.

You sparked my interest back into weathersats. Got an SDRplay with Uputronics preamp and a Diamond QFH. Did a few recordings of NOAA sats and they would'nt decode in Wxtoimg, my bad as the files were recording as 48000hz 32bit. Now converted them to 11025hz and good to go, below a NOAA 18 pass last night around 2000utc.

I always found once the first star is centred and synched the following ones are always in the fov. Not spot on but by the time 3 to 4 are done the gotos are pretty close on centre. As far as I know the home position should not alter with synching but if you undo the clutches or knock either axis and don't get them back dead on, the home position will change and you need to resynch stars.

The main thing that counts is the QE and the high ISO implementation. Full frames tend to have bigger wells, higher QE and better ISO implementation. The negative as already pointed out is that scopes have to cover a bigger frame, it's not normally cheap to do this. Camera lenses would be better but in the end the best ones are not cheap.