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About Alfian

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    Sub Dwarf

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  • Interests
    Astronomy, Walking, MotoGP, WWII aircraft history.
  • Location
    West Yorkshire
  1. I have had both the SW 150p f5 reflector and the SW ED100 f9 refractor and it looks like you are aiming a little higher on the optical/build quality with regard to both but for what its worth I'll give an opinion. The 150p was a nice scope and on paper should have been a good all rounder and in many ways it was but it never quite grabbed me. "Jack of all trades - master of none" springs to mind but that is perhaps a tad harsh. The ED100 likewise ticked all the boxes apart from "only" being 4" aperture. Howevet it was the ED100 that gave the wow factor at the eyepiece. I never thought I would part with it - but its funny how it goes. Circumstance and ideas change. Incidentally both scopes worked well on an AZ4. One thing that surprised me was having seen an ED120 it did not seem that much bigger than the ED100 though of course they are both 900mm. This is all pushing towards a nice 4" ED refractor which will be easy to manage mount wise but significantly perhaps because its bought for a special occasion,it will undoubtedly feel much more special than an f5 reflector even if it does have hand finished mirrors.
  2. There's an ED72 for sale on ABS posted on 13/03/2019 in Gosport. Not sure its still for sale but its still posted as live.
  3. Alfian

    Skywatcher 150PL

    Hi Greymouser, I am specifically looking for the longer F8 OTA so will have to pass on the 150p but thanks for the response. I had a 150p a few years back, a good all rounder , and definitely a good second hand buy so hopefully it will go quickly when you put it up for sale.
  4. Alfian

    Skywatcher 150PL

    Testing the water here. Does anyone, preferably within easy driving distance of West Yorkshire, have a Skywatcher 150 PL F8 reflector (150/1200) in good condition they would like to sell. Might consider an Orion VX6L if the price was right.
  5. I think the ED80 is f7.5 and the Mak is F12 so both scopes should be "gentle" on EPs. I think the Mak 150 has a 2" visual back so for both scopes a wide 2" EP will be useful, maybe something like the SW /OVL Aero 35mm or 40mm/68 degree. Below that I's have thought the Baader zoom 8-24 should work OK but whether to use a zoom or individual EPs is a personal choice, like wise with the barlow. (PS I'd assumed, perhaps not wisely, that the "ED80" is a Skywatcher.)
  6. Tal100r on what I think is a Giro ii and very similar if not indeed the very same as one shown in John's posted photo.
  7. Thats quite a makeover! I replaced the focuser in a Tal1 reflector and that involved enlarging the focuser hole so I can visualise that work. Anyway that's all academic for now. Thanks John.
  8. Thanks all, that's reassuring so looking promising. John, that looks a very nice set up - complete with a splash of green.I'm assuming that the scope shown is a 150PL but clearly it has a 2" dual speed focuser. Was that something you added yourself and if so was it easy surgery? At the moment I cannot see me going to a 2" but who knows what the future holds.
  9. Hi Jules, yes I have thought that might be the case, but figure a little forethought regarding the positioning of tripod legs might alleviate that one.
  10. I've long thought that the 150/f8 reflector with the smaller c/o would be a useful scope and although still a speculative idea I'm really edging towards giving it a go. I have a Giro ii Alt Az mount on a Celestron CG5 tripod (2" steel legs) which is very sturdy and should easily take the weight. Balance is everything with the Giro but that's easy to deal with. What is niggling at the back of my mind is the bulk of the 150PL acting as a bit of a sail catching the wind! I have enough equipment options to match scope to conditions so its not a case of having to go out with it when its a blowing a bit but if its going to quiver at the slightest breeze its a non starter. I had thought of the 6" skyliner dob option - and try it with tube rings on the Giro and maybe have the best of both worlds (?) but a Dob doesn't suit my current situation well and the 2" focuser, though obviously useful will be lost on me as I want to stick to 1.25: EPs. Has anyone any experience of using the 150PL on a Giro type mount or similar? Any comments on this set up or useful information would be appreciated. Thanks
  11. IMO with a scope like the se4 a barlow isn't necessary. A 32mm plossl, a 15mm or a 12/12.5mm is useful. A 10mm ortho works well at 130x too. Beyond that I would go to a 7mm or maybe a 6mm but only if skies are good. My 7mm 82 degree Nirvana is good. Its worth noting that as magnification gets higher the image will grow more dim.
  12. To go from your Nikon 8x40s to 10x50 and appreciate a noticeable difference I think you will also need a jump in quality and cost. The TS optics 10x60s look very nuch like a version of the United Optics BA1s which appear in all manner of different guises. Not necessarily a "bad" binocular but built down to a price and there is a good chance that they will not be 10x60 but something like 10x53. For 10x50s I would look at Opticron iMagic, Pentax PCF WPii and indeed the Nikon Action Ex to go better I think you will be looking at spending maybe £200 +. Its also worth looking at Steve Tonkin's binocularsky website for good advice and some recommendations.
  13. I've had my Rigel QF for over 5 years and it works as well now as it did when new ie a very good functional finder and certainly better than the average RDF. When I first bought it I confess I was initially disappointed, I saw it as a flimsy plasticky thing that didn't look worth the price. I was wrong, despite appearances its quite sturdy and proved itself reliable and happily recommend them
  14. When I had the issue with the SW dielectric diagonal, it had been used correctly and not had particularly heavy EPs used with it. The problem became apparent when diagonal and EP were rocking just very slightly in the scope. I could not find any swarf or other evidence that any threads were stripped in fact my initial thought was that the barrel was held in place by an internal locking ring which its not. If any existing threads were stripped then I guess it must have been poorly cut in the first place. Whatever, as said, curative treatment was applied but I wouldn't be in any bustin' hurry to buy another if I had to.
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