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Spaced Out

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About Spaced Out

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    Star Forming

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    Northumberland, UK

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  1. Just had my HEQ5 stripped regreased and belt modded by a lad called Adam at Rother Valley Optics, reasonable price and excellent service I would say. Not sure if they ever get 2nd hand HEQ5s in but they certainly sell new ones and also new ones which have been upgraded/modified. Might be worth a call ? https://www.rothervalleyoptics.co.uk/skywatcher-heq5-pro-goto-mount-tripod.html
  2. Spaced Out

    Baader laser collimator MK 111 SOLD

    PM sent too !
  3. Thanks, I'm feeling frustrated that my little problem persists but I've certainly learnt quite a bit so far going through this whole process. The things I used to be really scared to touch (like collimation, moving the secondary about etc..) don't seem scary any more. That's got to be a step in the right direction !
  4. Thanks, I'll give this a go. Yes I rotated the spider vanes around but no change, it was only when I turned the focuser upside down that I saw the problem reverse itself. Also looking directly through the centre of the focuser at the spiders the vertical vanes definitely look a touch thicker than the horizontal ones, then when I move my head slightly to the left they narrow up and look fine, I'm guessing this all points to an off kilter focuser of sorts ?
  5. Thanks for your reply. Yes I measured and marked the point directly opposite the focuser and used a cheshire to centre it. Difficult as 2 of the collimation screws are hard/impossible to reach with the focuser tube in ! I used a collimation cap with a small central hole to centre the secondary because this was the advice I have read online, I'll try using the cheshire instead tho.
  6. I'm not sure ?! Looks a useful start tho, I'll take a closer look and see if these will work. Has any one else used these successfully ? Thanks for replying.
  7. Hi All Just wondering what the issue might be here ? I use a HEQ5 pro and have started autoguiding with PHD2. I normally polar align as well as I can and PHD2 works well to guide some decent length subs. I use the HEQ5 skyscan handset for all movements but just recently I tried using the built in direction controller in PHD2 instead. As soon as I made a short movement north via PHD2 the guide star screen goes mad with stars just streaking across with every exposure after I have stopped the movement, the mount must be still moving and hasn’t stopped. Despite then using the skyscan controller to move it around and try and stabilise things the streaking stars/movement just continue. Finding this really annoying, I had to turn the mount off and start again three times the other night when I tried this movement with PHD2. Just wondering if this is this a known issue or is my mount just playing up somehow ? It all works fine so long as I don’t try and move it using the PHD2 software.
  8. Hi All I’m just wondering how others managed to attach and correctly space a Baader MPCC MKIII to a Skywatcher M48 ring ? I currently use a standard T2 ring with the MPCC and a set of delrin spacers to achieve the correct spacing, it’s fairly straightforward. I’d like to progress to using the skywatcher M48 ring that I have but there doesn’t seem to be an easy way to make this work (no off the shelf narrow spacers available to fine tune things with the M48 ring?). I am just wondering what other people have used to make this MPCC work with the M48 ring ?
  9. Well, time for an update. I've tried a number of things to resolve this issue without success, I’ve rotated all of the spider vanes round by one to see if it was a single vane issue, I removed the coma corrector, rotated the camera around lots, removed and centred the focuser the best I could, turned the focuser upside down, hacksawed the focuser tube down to reduce intrusion and in the end totally stripped and rebuilt the scope 3 times. The result...... my scope is now flocked and matt blacked, but I still have the problem ! On the plus side I think I have narrowed down the issue to some sort of focuser tilt ? Turning the focuser upside down reversed the issue in the image so from that I assume it must be a focuser problem ? I rebuilt the scope 3 times and centred the focuser as carefully as possible each time, but the problem remains. When collimation is as good as I can get it and I look through the collimation cap I can see the cap reflected but also the edge of the focuser tube at the top right side, suggesting the tube isn’t central ? When I look through without the collimation cap at the spider vanes, the vertical vanes are clearly a touch wider than the horizontal vanes which are a very fine line, if I move my head slightly to the left the vertical vanes narrow up nicely the same as the horizontal ones. I’m a newby and still feeling my way around here so please correct me if I am wrong, but from this I am assuming that the focuser or focuser tube is tilted somehow ? Every time I have rebuilt the scope I have carefully centred the focuser the best I can using the 3 collimation screws. I am wondering if there are further tilt adjustments available for the focuser/focuser tube to line it up perfectly with the secondary ? There are few more allen screws on the bottom of the focuser but not sure what they all do tbh !
  10. Spaced Out

    Astro Modified Canon DSLR

    Just in case you're not sorted.....
  11. Spaced Out

    Astro Modded 600D. SOLD.

    I've been waiting a while for one of these to come up for sale on here. Then just a couple of weeks ago I got impatient, bought one off ebay and sent it off for modding, I would have certainly snapped this one up otherwise. Good camera at a good price, a nice buy for someone this !
  12. Spaced Out

    Astro Modified Canon DSLR

    £330 sounds a little steep tbh, I got mine for £180 (body only) and a low 2500 shutter count. The total cost including the camera purchase, astro mod service and various postage costs etc was around £260. Good luck !
  13. Spaced Out

    Astro Modified Canon DSLR

    I've just got a 600D off ebay with a low shutter count and sent it here..... http://cheapastrophotography.vpweb.co.uk/ This guy comes recommended, he'll modify your own camera if you have one, he also sells lots of modded canons....
  14. Hey don’t worry and thanks for the help ! My gut feeling is that it is probably focuser tube intrusion, it does stick quite a way in ! However I’m going to follow the advice here, I will centre the focuser and re-collimate first. If that doesn’t fix it then I’ll chop the focuser tube down. I’m sure the flocking won’t resolve this issue but I was thinking of flocking/darkening the tube and mirror cleaning anyway so I figured why not do it all while I’m fiddling about with everything ! Good advice, thanks !
  15. Right I’ve fumbled about with the primary and moved it down the tube to the point where it fell off one of the screws ! I managed to get this screw back in and tighten it up a little, so the mirror is now as far forward as I can safely get it, still I have the split spikes on the left side of the image ! At this point I’ve decided to take the nuclear option and strip the scope down. I will lop off a section of the focuser tube (i’ve marked on the tube where the focus point is for the DSLR & MPCC) and centre the focuser. While I am at it I shall clean the mirrors, flock the scope and get the blackboard paint out too. Once rebuilt and collimated if I still have this issue I may just chuck it in the bin ! Any advice on this little project ? I’ve just watched the astronomyshed YT vid on mods which has explained the dismantle/re-assemble process quite well, it’s spurred me on a bit. With regard to chopping the focusser tube, I’m only going to use this scope for imaging so I am happy to try it, how much should I be lopping off ? Is it still OK to have a bit protruding into the scope at the point of focus ?

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