Jump to content

Stargazers Lounge Uses Cookies

Like most websites, SGL uses cookies in order to deliver a secure, personalised service, to provide social media functions and to analyse our traffic. Continued use of SGL indicates your acceptance of our cookie policy.

  • Announcements


Spaced Out

Advanced Members
  • Content count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

34 Excellent

About Spaced Out

  • Rank

Profile Information

  • Location
    Northumberland, UK
  1. I'll second this ! Exactly the route I took, good 2nd hand gear saves you £££ and I love this HEQ5 pro and 130 PDS set up. I read loads and asked a lot of questions on here before I splashed the cash tho.....
  2. Baader MPCC MKIII connection

    Thanks, looking at your image I think I might need to revisit this !
  3. HELP! Coma on stars at Edge of field STILL

    I’m a newby but I’ve had similar experiences with the MPCC, you can see the thread I started on the Baader CC here, it covers a bit on T rings and spacing, maybe going over old ground but something might be helpful... https://stargazerslounge.com/topic/291046-baader-mpcc-mkiii-connection/ In my case I’ve settled for a spacing that produces slightly ‘eggy’ stars around the edge, it is just as close as I seem able to get it and it left me wondering f I was just expecting too much from the MPCC and a DSLR. Maybe it can be better and I should revisit it sometime ?
  4. This is the advice I followed and I think it is good advice. Everyone told me that the mount is probably the most important thing to invest money in and to get the best possible mount I could afford. I ended up with a decent 2nd hand HEQ5 pro for £450. A lot of dosh for me and I had to save up longer to afford it but that gave me time to research stuff a bit more and I'm pleased that I've ended up with a pretty solid mount for getting started with astrophotography.
  5. This is brilliant, thank you ! Exactly the info I need to identify and then tackle the dodgy spider vane with some confidence. I've already learnt a bit about collimation and star testing so I understand that bit thanks.
  6. I have to second that ! All of my gear was bought in very good used condition, I did have to wait a little while for stuff to come up fairly locally but it did save me a lot of £££ to be honest. More difficult if you don't have a way to collect stuff but perhaps still worth considering if you can scrounge a lift off a mate or something. I was originally considering the SW 150PDS for imaging but after seeing lots of advice on this site I ended up going for the 130PDS. I don't regret that decision at all, I'm guessing the 130PDS is smaller and easier to handle, so maybe better for an EQ5 too ? Anyway, it's really got me into imaging. This thread in particular was really helpful and inspiring..... Good luck !
  7. Thanks. All of the spider vanes look pretty straight to me except one that might be just a tiny fraction out but it is really hard to judge by eye, is there a way of determining this without taking photographs of stars through the telescope ? If I need to twist a spider vane slightly do I adjust by holding it tight and unscrewing the screw on the outside of the tube to loosen then change the vanes position before re-tightening the screw ? If so, will that affect the position of the seconday mirror ? Sorry if these are really daft questions, never touched these before and I don't want to make things any worse !
  8. Hi All I’m a newby just trying to learn about my telescope and imaging so apologies if this sounds daft. Attached is my first ever image of Andromeda, it’s 9 frames stacked in DSS taken through a SW 130PDS. I was reasonably happy with this as a first attempt until I noticed split diffraction spikes on the brightest stars. I’ve checked each frame and the split spikes are there, so it isn’t something to do with stacking. Having googled it and searched on here I am guessing the cause is most likely a twisted spider vane ? It is interesting that the split spike is prominent on one side of the stars only and also only appear to be on the left side of the image, just wondering if this means anything ? If it is a wonky spider vane, is there a hassle free way to identify which vane and straighten it out ? I only ask because I made the mistake of fiddling with secondary mirror a while ago and it took me days to get things good again ! I’ve looked at the vanes and they look OK, if you squint and use a bit of imagination one of them might be just a tiny bit twisted looking, but I’m not really that confident tbh. Could a twisted spider vane be really difficult to spot and still cause this ? Thanks in advance for any advice you can offer.
  9. HEQ5 mains power supply

    Thanks all for your replies.
  10. HEQ5 mains power supply

    Thanks, this looks ideal for my needs, decent price and you can split it to run a dew strip too, no more forgetting to charge up the battery for that !
  11. Hi All Sorry this is novice question, but I know naff all about electronics ! I bought a 2nd hand HEQ5 a while ago and it came with this mains plug that looks pretty flimsy tbh and perhaps doesn’t really belong on a HEQ5 ? I am wondering if this unit is correct/suitable ? I’ve used it a few times so far without any issues but I’m just looking at it today and getting a little concerned. Might I end up frying my mount somehow if this plug is not suitable ! I only use this mount in the garden from a mains power supply. I have bought a RCD plug for the indoor house socket that I plug the outdoor extension cable into, and the electrical plugs n stuff out in the garden live in a sealed plastic box to try and prevent dew/damp getting involved. If the plug I have isn’t up to scratch I was thinking of getting this..... https://www.harrisontelescopes.co.uk/acatalog/celestron-skywatcher-compatible-12v-mains-power-supply.html
  12. Baader MPCC MKIII connection

    Just a quick update on this. After my first ever telescope collimation (which was a right old hassle, but that's another story altogether !) I managed to test the MPCC again the other night, very briefly between clouds with just a few short high ISO test shots to assess the stars. As folk had suggested, getting the scope in better collimation has improved things, those triangular shaped stars on the edges are now round. However, when viewed at 100% they are still a little 'eggy' in the corners. Maybe achieving perfect round stars into the corners isn’t actually possible with a crop sensor DSLR and this is as good as it gets ? Maybe my collimation and spacing still isn’t perfect ? Anyway, it’s not bad for now and this will do me. I can’t face any more hours of faffing on with collimation and spacing !
  13. Thanks Steve, that looks interesting and certainly worth a try. I will download EZPlanetary and try the settings you suggest to see if I can get similar results.
  14. Thanks, I already had it set to 2x2 mean for this test and these were the results. When I use no NR I get grey image with vertical banding that changes in brightness from frame to frame, when I use 2x2 mean I get the image above constant dark with the white dots and when I use 3x3 median I get a noisy looking snow storm ! I was testing it indoors in the afternoon so camera was on the guide scope with the cap on and covered in a blanket to block out light. I knew it had these white dots from a very quick look the night before, I was just trying to clean them up before a proper test at night. The focus had been left where I had it focussed the night before on a star so I think it was roughly in focus. Did your asi120 show white dots when out of focus then that cleared up when focussed ? No matter what I do the white dots are consistent and don't move so I'm guessing these are hot/stuck pixels ? I tried using it last night with PHD, didn't use bad pixel map or darks library, I just put up with the static white dots. Didn't get far at all because it kept crashing and saying it couldn't connect to the camera again, another problem to sort out ! Perhaps I need to look at the camera settings separately from PHD ? I haven't downloaded the software for that yet, I just chucked it onto the guide scope as it came and was shocked that the two functions that are supposed to improve your guiding image have made it worse.
  15. Thanks for the reply. Before this I was using a webcam that had 2 hot pixels, I used the bad pixel map and they vanished leaving a dark sky and the odd star visible. I was quite shocked that when I used the bad pixel map with this camera I got a load of snow ! Is that just normal then ? Any idea how I can improve this ?