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Showing results for tags 'camera'.
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Hi all, I have been circling around the idea of getting started with astrophotography for about a year now and I think I'm finally ready for making my first equipment purchase. I'm greatly interested capturing in deep sky objects and specifically nebulae, although as I've only seen other people's images I hope i can actually pull it off. I'm leaning towards getting a DSLR since it's a low cost option and offers versatility but there are so many different options between that and dedicated astro cameras that it's really hard to decide on a specific thing. The most important factor I keep hearing is getting your DSLR astromodified but once again there is a variety of options. So my question is, assuming I have the option to get a DSLR from (60d, 700,750d,800d) for pretty cheap (200€-300€) how much of a difference would it make to get it astromodified (with extra cost and hassle) and then which modification would be more fitting (baader, UV/IR, full spectrum etc.) Also assuming the above, would it be more prudent to spend the 600€ to get a dedicated astro cam instead, knowing I would have to wait until I get a telescope as well before I can start taking pictures? Thank you for any help you can provide. Ps. I live in Europe and the used astro market is pretty limited in my country so I'm also open to any suggestions for second hand stores on the EU side. -
Vibrations from ZWO ASI cameras effecting star shape?
Corpze posted a topic in Discussions - Cameras
Stumbeled upon a forum thread saying the some of the ZWO ASI Cameras has issues with vibrations from the fan. I don't know if i had any issues with my fan (having a ASI 2600MM) but I am to corious not to test this out. I made a video of how I (try to) analyse my vibrations with my phone as it has a accelerometer, which indicated a bit better values after the mod. You can find my video on my youtube channel: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q0K_7oEQbEg&ab_channel=ExoPhotography Have you noticed anything like this? Have you made the mod? Have you changed the fan for another, better one? Regards, Daniel -
I'm planning a my astronomy project for 2023. This is going to be a solar powered all sky camera based on a Raspberry PI 4 (8Gb model) with a ZWO ASI 462MC camera. I'm thinking about the rest of the bulid, and have decided that the Dewcontrol 12v heater ring should work well. Here's a list of the things that I've been thinking about for this project, so ensure it's success. 1. Controller - Raspberry Pi 4 (8Gb Model) (Already have) 2. Camera - ZWO ASI 462MC with standard lens (Already Have) 3. DewControl 12v dew heater (on order) 4. Relay that will be PI controlled, (Have some already, but likely to order a different one later, I have duel relays, but will only need a single) 5. Temperature and humidity sensors. (want to calculate the dew point and keep the camera dew free) 6. Battery 7. Solar controller (already have one) 8. Solar panels. (have 50w panel, will this be enough) 9. SSD or MicroSD? My plan is to have the camera, PI and heater all run from the battery, and have the battery charged by solar power. For the OS, I know that there's an all sky project on Github that I'll be using for the camera control part of things, that's going to do most of the work. The PI will connect to my home network via Wifi, the build in wifi on the PI should be good enough, especially as it'll be in a plastic enclosure. I'm not sure what size battery I'd need to be able to set this up and leave it running. Most likely a 10Ah 12V battery should do the job? I'm thinking of getter a 12v to USB C adapter to run the PI on. That should provide enough power without worrying about under volting the PI. The real question here is will a 10Ah battery be enough to keep the PI running 24/7, and will a 50W panel be enough to keep the battery alive through the winter? Would be interested in others experiences as it would be helpful in allowing me to come up with a solution that is going to be up to the job.
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I'm doing a uni astrophotography project and we were given a very simple Canon Powershot 490. I attached pictures we took last night (with just the camera). Camera settings - ISO:1600, f/3.0, Shutter Speed: 15s. I noticed that there seems to be a lot of grain/noise in these photos and that they are not very sharp. Is there any way to minimize this problem? From what I researched, I think I need to try reducing the shutter speed and stack multiple photos with something like deep sky stacker. I just want to know whether I'm heading in the right direction.
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From the album: CCD venture
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Hi, I have been using the 183 mc pro since September and have trying to find some info on the best gain to use for galaxies and for nebula with the L-extreme. I have currently been using 53 gain on my asi aie pro app. Kind Regards, Mark -
I have been given a nice little QHY5III492 video camera but have not yet found a driver for it under Linux (Ubuntu if that is relevant). Can anyone help? TIA, Paul
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Over the winter I got into playing with a phone mount on my telescope eyepiece and got some pictures of the moon... But not much else as there are always limitations on what a phone camera can do (and how well I can align the camera to the eyepiece). If I was to upgrade to a camera to mount onto my scope, what should I be looking for? I have been tempted to give it a go with whatever I can find on ebay or similar, but don't want to buy something only to discover that it's lacking something important. The only thing I know to look for at the moment is to make sure there is a suitable mounting ring for the camera (a T ring I believe they're called). My targets will probably be: Orion nebular, Jupiter and Saturn to start with. This is purely because these are targets I know I can find. Scope: Skywatcher Explorer 130P (650mm focal length, 130mm diameter)
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Hi, my current telescope is Celestron ExploraScope 70AZ, thinking upgrade to skywatcher heritage 130P(came with 25mm ajd 10mm EP) , if i do, can i use the eyepiece (4mm) and x3 barlow from my old celestron on the 130P? One more question, i ordered a eyepiece camera Svbony SV105, i wonder what is magnification of this camera and how it work to change magnification. -
Hi all, Not sure which section to put this in? getting started or cameras, (Mods please move if necessary) Need a little help/advice/recommendations, I have been away from my telescope/astrophotography for about 2 maybe 3 years, i kind of lost the mojo for it, but now looking to get back to it, So i'm looking for camera advice/help, Previously i only ever used a DSLR for astrophotography, however i am thinking do i stick with that or do i get something different? I know there will be a learning curve with new camera setup, My area of interest is/would be Nebulae and Galaxies,i know there is no one camera fits all kind of thing, so Nebulae would be my main interest with Galaxies coming 2nd. My current scope is the (Older Blue Model) Sky-Watcher Evostar 80 DS-PRO ED, so with that in mind what would be a good camera to pair that with, colour or mono i'm not fussed really, My budget for new/2nd hand camera is £700 but could maybe stretch to £800. Any help/advice (good or bad) will be greatly appreciated. Regards JemC
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Hi everyone, What camera would you recommend to use with my Celestron SCT 9.25” ? I would prefer a proper astrophotography camera rather than a DSLR. I already have a focal reducer and would mostly want deep sky if possible (although my telescope may be too high mag for that), but would also enjoy planetary. Any advice would be great guys. Many thanks! Paul -
I currently have a Canon T6 with a Opteka 500mm f8 lens ($87) that I use for lunar and solar photography. I recently purchased a full frame Canon EOS R and am thinking about getting a 800mm f11 Canon RF lens ($899). Will the quality on the new canon lens be significantly better than my Opteka lens? Is it worth the upgrade? Also, should I use my new full frame or my crop sensor (1.6 factor) to shoot? I want to get the best quality possible.
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Hi - I just wanna share my latest build - based on Starlight Express optical rig in which they align their camerachip / housings before the ship them out - And i was inspired to build my own. I am very keen to be able to do so much adjustments and tuning to my gear during the day as possible - and this is another method of doing just that, and in this case the aligning of camera tilt which can be a royal PITA during the dark and -20 degree C. So, here is the SX article on what i was going to build: SX Article Note: I haven't reciieved my new camera yet so the video does not contain the actual adjustment, but as soon as i get my new camera - I will show just how it works! /Daniel
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Hi all, Am thinking of buying a William optics Redcat 51 for imaging DSOs (my celestron 9:5” is too high power) What camera would you suggest please. Would like to keep it simple and easy. Many thanks Paul
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I've recently acquired a Sky-Watcher Explorer 130M (900mm focal length, 130mm aperture / mirror size, maximum recommended magnification 260x). I've also ordered a budget SV105 camera for getting more into astrophotography. As discussed in the thread here, the SV105 has a field of view equivalent to looking through a 4mm eyepiece. If I use a 4mm eyepiece that's a magnification of 225x. Adding a 2x Barlow lens the magnification would be pushed past the maximum limit to 450x. I know that you can't really talk about "magnification" in the same way regarding cameras, but does the same limit apply? i.e. if the FOV of the camera is equivalent to a 4mm eyepiece, will a 2x / 3x / 5x Barlow result in a blurry image because of the maximum recommended magnification? Or will it be crisp because the camera doesn't work the same way as an eyepiece? -
Hi All, I wonder if someone can please help, I'm fairly new to astrophotography and confused about aperture. Basically I'm looking at a Canon EF-S 55-250mm lens. It has the specs f4-f5.6 does this mean that the lowest point of aperture possible is F5.6 or will it go lower. What I find confusing is that I have a lens that's the EF-S 18-55mm lens which has the specs of f/3.5/5.6 however My camera does allow me to set the aperture at f/8 The reason I ask cause it is advised to use a low aperture of f/8 to capture images of the moon. Any help and guidance would be greatly appreciated!
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I'm trying to get a photo of Jupiter and Saturn with my Nikon D3000 DSLR but I can't get anything clear. I attached the kind of photos I'm getting with my camera. They end up being too bright and no distinguishable features show up. Is it even possible for my Nikon to get photos of planetary objects like Saturn and Jupiter?
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Which one should I get I am little bit confused please help me out
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Hello , I just bought my new Newtonian, reflecter and I looked jupiter and saturn the views were great but when I tried to capture thwn with my smartphone they become white balls then I adjusted the exposure settings on my smartphone everything vanishes . I got a descent photo of saturn with cassini division but jupiter was still looking like a white balls . should I buy a ZWO 120 MC or modify a logitech c270 and if you have a solution to fix that smartphone problem please help me out .
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which webcam is best for planetary imaging under 25 USD . If you have experience of any webcam for planetary work please help me out -
Hi everyone, it has been a long time since I posted anything here. Does any one know the best way to connect a digital camera to a Zeiss Telementor 2. I have this great telescope and a great camera but I really need some guidance with how to connect the two together. All help and advice gratefully accepted. THANKS -
I've just had a Canon EOS 250d modified by Juan, IR filter off and shim to restore focal plane. He previously did the same for a 100d which got me going in the hobby. Juan is willing and able to take on successive generations of camera. I prefer to rely on Juan's experience for this task, despite me being an optics specialist professionally. The cost of the camera and Juan's conversion service together are a bargain and I trust him with a new camera. I like to use this type of imager over the specialist cameras because they are the result of Canon's massive R&D capability and bundle together all these functions: battery, an up to date sensor chip, the on-board software, on-board storage, built-in display, easy-fit Astronomik filter. In the case of the 250d, that very important tiltable display so you don't have to crawl around on the wet lawn to see it. The only thing they don't have is an easily-implemented thermo-electric cooling. But I've got a long way to go in astro-imaging before I care about noise that much (though I'd like to cool, and understand what can be achieved, I use stacking averaging in the meantime to go part way in that respect). The dslr is my one imager for three rigs, the most notable being that it's lightweight enough to go on my Omegon clockwork mount. On my heftier rig, I do have an Altair camera with a Sony back-lit chip but only use it for tracking with a wireless-controlled Stellarmate setup, having got fed up with all the cables and tablet pc with memory dangling off it.- 2 replies
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- juan fierros
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Hi, i have a nikon d3200 and astromaster 130eq. I want to click picutres with my dslr mounted on the telescope. I have a tring and adapter but the picture is always blurred and i can never get it sharp
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i have a nikon d3200 which i want to attach to my astromaster 130 eq i have these 2 things (shown in 1st photo) and when i attach these to my camera it says , 'lens not attached' i dont know what to do now, pls help
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Hi, I bought my first telescope, SW 150pds about 6 months ago with the purpose of astroimaging "when i feel ready". So far ive used my Nikon D810 for that, and I'm now planning on taking the step buying my first AP camera. My targets would be DSO's, and not planetary. I want a mono-camera, not color. I want to get away with a very good camera to a reasonable price (wouldn't we all...) and in this regard I've been drooling on the ZWO ASI 1600MM Mono for some time. The price for it is in the upper part of my budget, but I'm willing to if its worth it. I've seen from other treads that sensor-size isn't everything, and dynamic range and gain and all is just as important, but i have trouble understanding it all 100% when it's all new to me, but in my experience i am a practical person who learns things much better and faster with the gear in my hand. So without getting to technical, and staying as objective as possible - please help me with; 1. Is this a good camera to go for? 2. It's sold with options of filters 1.25", 31mm or 36mm - Why these options, and what determines what i would choose? 3. Would you go for another camera in this price range, and why? - Or to rephrase it a bit; If you were in my shoes, which camera would you og for? I'd appreciate any help:) I might add, that i understand that with my lack of experience, buying a mono-camera with filters and all might seem premature, but for some strange reason. I enjoy these "way over my head"-projects and figuring out things as time goes - I just need some guiding in the right direction.
