wxsatuser

Your not going to get any detail, try Av mode wide open at ISO 100 or 200 and see if it gives a reasonable speed for handheld. If you have a tripod speed will not matter.

That part of the band is the LPD433, Low Power Device 10mW max. There are 69 25KHz channels 433.075 to 434.775. 433.920 is car door fobs. 435MHz is the start of the amateur satellite frequencies in this band. It's possible to hear some downlinks and some beacons between 435 and 438MHz.

I don't see a train of Starlink at that time. There were a couple of Starlink about but there were three Flock sats in the optimal beam width. These were decending just off vertical to the south.

This issue keeps arising with the likes of DSS and other stackers. All RAW files are gray scale it's the colour filter array that turns them into colour. Do not worry about the fact they are reported as gray. Also RAW files will lack contrast, colour and brightness, again do not worry about this. Astro images will lack all of these especially and it's up to you, the processor, to bring them out.

Did you transport the earth from your house for the electrics? Be very careful if you have and your supply is TN-C-S. If the supply neutral gets broken that metal consumer unit will become live and anything else connected that is metal will become live as well, this may include your pier. If the supply is TN-S you are good to go, if it's TT you will need earth rods anyway same as the house.

May be you have dug into the house soak away. Our garden used to be like that although our soil was thick yellow clay. Dig a hole and in in a few minutes we had a pond. This stopped happening after a new estate was built near us and they drained the land. If your on clay you do have put up with cracks and in some cases subsidence, a few houses here have been under pinned or had walls rebuilt, our houses put up just after WW2.

It was aligned with VE day.

I'm from Steyning, to much LP at home although all the football field lights have been off since the shutdown. Don't know of any good spots as I have always done my AP from home.

Hello. I'm in Worthing at the moment, work in Findon Valley.

Many nebulae are very large, 250mm will fit a lot with their surroundings and show them off nicely.

Out of the four, most likely the Redcat. Flat field, reasonably fast, widefield and a 44mm circle.

About 20>25% on the Canon luminance histogram should do it. Remember when you look at the RAW histogram it will still be hard left unlike the back of the camera histogram.

Are you sure it's coming to focus? Sounds like the one pixel stars are just that, pixels, hot or stuck ones. You could bump up the ISO, 1600 should show stars if you can reach focus.

Looks to me your receiving GRAVES direct, you can see the pulses, these are the trigger. I would lower your beam and point it south and see if it nulls off the back.

RAW files will lack colour, contrast and be dark, they need developing in software. What you see on the back of the camera is a processed jpeg,

I actually have two RSP1As, one on the LEO weather satellites and the other one I showed earlier on the Qatar Oscar 100 satellite downlink. They are nice radios, mine seem to handle a 100watts HF close by with no problems.

The Canon is a good lens, can even be used wide open but most stop it down a bit. The Samyang is most likely the best out there overall and should run wide open. Not used it on a full frame but it's superb on an APS-C sensor, should be ok as it is made as full frame lens.

The pixels will not remove if you are shooting jpeg, use RAW only. A good RAW converter should remove the pixels, ACR in Photoshop should do it. Make sure the camera has reached ambient and do the clean.

You may not see some satellites if they are eclipsed. This goes for other sats as well as Starlink. Sometimes you can see ISS fade out as it goes into eclipse.

That is correct as it's orbit has an inclination of 28.5 degrees, it would be on the horizon along the south coast. We can see ISS as it's orbit is inclined by 51.6 degrees.

Hi Emil. I receive a tropo type signal most times, located in IO90UV but a poor take off towards GRAVES. I cannot be sure it is a direct signal as I cannot normally work French stations past Paris on 2metres. Signal comes and goes with very weak aircraft reflections as well. Sometimes I get satellites like ISS and also Moon echos. Mike G1HWY.

BTW you can get rid of the pixels by using manual sensor clean. This should remap the pixels and hopefully remove them. Go to P mode and find sensor clean, yellow menu, click and find manual sensor clean. After it's done it's thing turn off camera, next time you turn on it should have cleared the pixels.

The pixels are most likely normal, there are usually quite a few. If your taking short static shots just use the in camera noise reduction and let it take the second shot.

I don't see why you cannot use the camera you have but later versions will have better specs. Try it and see how it goes then upgrade if and when you can.

The refractor will need to be able to cover the full frame chip for a start, at least a 44mm imaging circle. Most wide range zoom lenses will likely give poor results depending on what you can put up with and can vary in quality and speed. A very good fast zoom lens will cost an arm and a leg same as a very good fast scope. There is one very good fast Canon zoom, Canon EF 70-200mm f/2.8L IS III USM Lens, or the II version. These can run wide open across the range with good results but expensive, they also work fine on APS-C.