Top 10 things to make with a 3D printer

[powerlord]

Yeh I think like any hobby, there are those who the hobby IS the printer (modifying, getting better, faster, more materials, etc) and those to whom it is just a tool that helps them manifest their ideas (via CAD) in solid reality.

Im in the second camp. I couldn't even tell you what hot end was in either of my printers.

Heres the latest wee thing - 4 spring clips that fit into myy Motorhome ceiling light. A large fly net cage board pushes over these to keep it suspended,  but removable. Each have broken over the years and no luck getting replacements.

It needed a springy plastic, so pla and abs no use. I used the pa6 glass fibre sample again, making a simplified design. I printed it flat, then heated where I wanted the bend, pulled it out,  then quenched in water. The result is a very strong springy clip

[teoria_del_big_bang]

On 02/05/2022 at 09:24, Len1257 said:

Robert Brown has done several electronics projects related to astro. Best to follow from his menu page https://sourceforge.net/u/brownrb/profile/

I would add that some are (to me extremely so) complex so definitely read the pdf's in detail. 

The SQM+ is https://sourceforge.net/projects/mysqmproesp32/

Daughter Board is one of these https://sourceforge.net/projects/myesp-boards/

Anemometer for the above https://sourceforge.net/projects/mysqmproesp32/files/Wind Speed Sensor Anemometer/

 

Thanks for the info, I am going to have a go at this, it maybe above my capabilities with some of the stuff  but will give it  go.

I have ordered some PCB's for the main and daughter board and it was same price for 10 as 1 so if anyone cos across this thread and  is after either of these then pm me I may have some left 🙂 

Steve

[Len1257]

33 minutes ago, teoria_del_big_bang said:

Thanks for the info, I am going to have a go at this, it maybe above my capabilities with some of the stuff  but will give it  go.

I found the power supply footprints to be unrealistic so built the power supply separate on stripboard and just linked the 5V over to the main board. I use Molex KK254 connectors a lot so used these for my sensor connections. I should get some pictures taken.....................

Edited May 4, 2022 by Len1257

[Len1257]

Here's one I took earlier! The main board, power supply board, RTC and BME280 hang on a slide-in module. Power connector on bottom exits out through a whole in the bottom floor plate of the cylinder. Rails in cylinder mate with module. The BME280 was supposed to be in the rear portion open to atmosphere but I think I will move that to the Daughter board at a different location. Small board has the sky sensors. to be fixed into lid. I still have to work out the connection between the lid and the board module so very much still a work in progress.

Edited May 4, 2022 by Len1257
power connection

[LuckieEddie]

I think a Bahtinov mask was the first thing I 3D printed for astronomy. White PLA works great.

I've made a fully configurable CAD model that's freely available here. No sign in required. Just set the configuration variables (top left) to fit your scope/lens. Right click on the Part "Bahtinov mask" (bottom left) and select export to download a .STL you can throw in your slicer.

Hope it helps someone.

[Len1257]

Sometimes 3D printing doesn't turn out the way we want! My Bullseye fan duct came loose and dragged on the print, then self destructed as the bracket arm broke. The print joined in and it too side shifted. So I had to superglue the duct arms back together so that I could make a new one out of PLA+ and then get back to PETG for the bracket. It will be used to mount my SQM+ to an aluminium pole outside. These things are sent to try us 😉

[Elp]

There's nothing worse than a print error (usually warping) after a couple of hours running an incomplete print job.

[teoria_del_big_bang]

3 minutes ago, Elp said:

There's nothing worse than a print error (usually warping) after a couple of hours running an incomplete print job.

Apart from after 24 hours when something geos wrong and the print fails 🙂 

Steve

[Alien 13]

I have had several print failures with some STL files just not working no matter what you do, the most annoying though is a filament tangle which rips the filament guide arm off the printer and breaks the filament holder too....There doesn't seem to be a commercial or printable sensor for this unlike filament breaks so will have to design/make one probably based on a spring loaded guide wheel and micro switch.

Alan

[Elp]

5 hours ago, teoria_del_big_bang said:

Apart from after 24 hours when something geos wrong and the print fails 🙂 

Steve

I thought my 5 hour print fails were bad...

[vlaiv]

Not sure if this should make the top 10 ten but - here are my first 3d prints 

Actually those are 4th and 5th prints - I printed x3 20mm calibration cube with white sample PLA that I got with machine - but I count those as "getting to know you" prints .

Stock Ender 3 V2 with updated firmware. Creality CR-PLA (PLA+) in black color (obviously).

I'm rather happy with first prints - only issue is first layer and I guess too much bed heating for PLA - I had issues with Elephant's foot and slight corner warping. Looking into getting BL/CR touch probe to simplify things.

 

Edited June 27, 2022 by vlaiv
typo - not 10 ten but rather top 10 :D

[teoria_del_big_bang]

Nice Benchy and cube @vlaiv 🙂 

Steve

[Chaz2b]

Carefull now, the first prints, Benchy, cube or whatever you choose, always look good, then you get confident and print something you can use…bang! You then notice a problem in comparison to those first prints, that’s when you start doubting the reasons for having it!

it eventually goes away when you print more goodies. Have fun, I am.

chaz

[Alien 13]

On 27/06/2022 at 14:00, vlaiv said:

Not sure if this should make the top 10 ten but - here are my first 3d prints 

Actually those are 4th and 5th prints - I printed x3 20mm calibration cube with white sample PLA that I got with machine - but I count those as "getting to know you" prints .

Stock Ender 3 V2 with updated firmware. Creality CR-PLA (PLA+) in black color (obviously).

I'm rather happy with first prints - only issue is first layer and I guess too much bed heating for PLA - I had issues with Elephant's foot and slight corner warping. Looking into getting BL/CR touch probe to simplify things.

 

Welcome to the club, I too have an Ender 3V2 and like most others have suffered from "elephants foot" from time to time but it can be cured by adjusting bed/print temperature and also in the Cura slicer that I use by adjusting dimensions of the first couple of layers.

I would recommend that you find a PLA manufacturer that works well and stick to it, some PLA I have is so difficult to "tune in" with a couple of degrees difference in temp making big changes.

I fitted the CR probe to mine and it makes a big difference, the printer is almost plug and play now.

 I will add that anyone that thinks "benchys" calibration cubes or any other models are not relevant to Astro then they don't understand the process of tuning a printer and quantifying a materials properties so that you get successful engineering prints.

Alan

 

Edited July 1, 2022 by Alien 13

[vlaiv]

3 hours ago, Alien 13 said:

Welcome to the club, I too have an Ender 3V2 and like most others have suffered from "elephants foot" from time to time but it can be cured by adjusting bed/print temperature and also in the Cura slicer that I use by adjusting dimensions of the first couple of layers.

I would recommend that you find a PLA manufacturer that works well and stick to it, some PLA I have is so difficult to "tune in" with a couple of degrees difference in temp making big changes.

I fitted the CR probe to mine and it makes a big difference, the printer is almost plug and play now.

 I will add that anyone that thinks "benchys" calibration cubes or any other models are not relevant to Astro then they don't understand the process of tuning a printer and quantifying a materials properties so that you get successful engineering prints.

Alan

 

I actually diagnosed elephants foot and other issues with first couple of layers to issues with z axis.

I ended up disassembling and putting back together my printer - this time taking care of adjusting all things that can be adjusted - making frame as square as possible, wheel tension on both sides of z axis, leveling of x bar and making sure z axis lead screw is as parallel as possible.

It is still not as good as it can be, and I wanted to print z axis motor bracket - but I gave up on that as I only have PLA at the moment and that should be printed in higher temp material like ASA or ABS.

I also added CR touch probe and will replace motor / z axis lead screw coupling to flexible one. There is a bit of z axis binding when x axis gantry is all the way down as z axis screw is not fully parallel. This should fix a bit of binding until I get ASA to print z axis motor adjustable bracket.

This is easy fix and very cheap one (less than 2e here per flexible coupling) - and it should be performed by anyone having Ender 3 series. It is really strange to use rigid coupling on shaft that can be (and often is) slightly bent to motor shaft.

I think I'll be adding at least 2 additional mods to my printer:

1. dual z axis drive (to fix issues with x axis gantry sloping when changing z direction)

2. all metal hot end (to be able to print ASA without issues at 255C).

[Alien 13]

6 hours ago, vlaiv said:

I actually diagnosed elephants foot and other issues with first couple of layers to issues with z axis.

I ended up disassembling and putting back together my printer - this time taking care of adjusting all things that can be adjusted - making frame as square as possible, wheel tension on both sides of z axis, leveling of x bar and making sure z axis lead screw is as parallel as possible.

It is still not as good as it can be, and I wanted to print z axis motor bracket - but I gave up on that as I only have PLA at the moment and that should be printed in higher temp material like ASA or ABS.

I also added CR touch probe and will replace motor / z axis lead screw coupling to flexible one. There is a bit of z axis binding when x axis gantry is all the way down as z axis screw is not fully parallel. This should fix a bit of binding until I get ASA to print z axis motor adjustable bracket.

This is easy fix and very cheap one (less than 2e here per flexible coupling) - and it should be performed by anyone having Ender 3 series. It is really strange to use rigid coupling on shaft that can be (and often is) slightly bent to motor shaft.

I think I'll be adding at least 2 additional mods to my printer:

1. dual z axis drive (to fix issues with x axis gantry sloping when changing z direction)

2. all metal hot end (to be able to print ASA without issues at 255C).

I also had to play with the Z axis by adding shims to the motor assembly and also moved  to dual axis motors with anti backlash couplings on both lead screws, smooth as butter now and it also ensures that the auto bed leveling is consistent with no sagging on the x gantry. Have also added lighting using those small USB stick lights and some 28v to 5V usb convertor boards in printed cases..

Alan

[Mackem]

My daughter got me into it a while ago.

She had the Ender 3.

But she suggested  I wait and get one of the early  Ender 3/ V2s

Took me quite a few benchies to get it tuned in, what was causing me problems was the belt tension got it right by printing a small disc between  tightenings.

Have to say I was impressed with this intricate test print not much later.

 

[Mackem]

What I wanted to print first was the fitting for the EAF. (When it finally was available to buy it was expensive.)

The actual fastening holes in the print were distorted so I just ignored them and  drilled fresh ones.

The distorted hole is visible on the tube.

Any similar small holes  on any prints now I ignore them and drill.

[Mackem]

I had made a card Bhatinov  took me ages with a Stanley knife.🤪

Couldn't print one as it was to big for my print bed for the Evolution  9.25.

The card mask is top the PLA+ lower I found a STL that split it into quadrants bolted together.

Edited July 6, 2022 by Mackem

[adyj1]

A tip I saw from 'the guy with the Swiss accent' on YouTube was to always print your holes slightly small and then ream them to the size you need with a device like this - much more accurate;

As long as your part isn't too thick it works quite well. 

Ady

 

[billhinge]

Step 1 complete

Measured inside/outside of TMB LZOS 115 Kruppax  tube and outside of new APM 3.7" R&P focuser (to replace existing 2" Feathertouch) accurate to 0.01 mm - got close with a micrometer and kept increasing size by few hundredths till I got a tight fit. No one makes an adapter this size and it would cost a fortune for a custom job so DIY is best

Final Prototype 'rings' now correctly measured and fitted snuggly against OTA tube and focuser - holes all line up

Needs to support either Riccardo flattener etc so now to design the bit between the tube end and the focuser and make a bit thicker

This is printed in  thick PLA which I plan to flock with protostar and paint (got some Mosou Black to try - good excuse 😉 )

Also printed a cycloid gear box but measurements are out slightly, needs tweaking and reprinting 

printer is Qidi X-Max

PLA seems quite rigid 

[Dave_D]

Just a few things I've printed...

[vlaiv]

Printing this very moment:

Print in place hinged cable clip for cable management of AZGti imaging setup (USB and power cable)

[vlaiv]

Above design did not work very good in PLA - material is not flexible enough.

It can easily be shut but can't be released that easily (need to wedge little screw driver there to release it).

I had some clearance issues (needed 0.4mm clearance and still some parts fused together and I had to apply the force to get the hinge working) - will need to re calibrate flow and still waiting for that z-axis upgrade to arrive.

There will be a design change - instead of using snap mechanism, I'll put in thread and thumb screw for securing the clip in place.

 

[Synchronicity]

I bought a Creality CR10 pro just before the Covid hit.  I got involved with a national volunteer group printing headbands for face visors, contributing 350 before the project ended.  The group fund-raised and replaced the filament we used which was a big help.
They got hundreds of 700g boxes of UP PLA which prints great but is brittle and tends to break on the roll.  I have about a dozen boxes of this which would be ideal for people using a 3d Pen (https://www.3dsourced.com/rankings/best-cheap-3d-pen/ ).  It might also be ok for someone printing small parts who can babysit their printer constantly!
What I have is still vacuum sealed in the box - if anyone can use this or knows of someone I'd be delighted to pass it on for the cost of postage.
I don't really want it going to someone who's going to hope it doesn't break then bin it all when it does - I could have done that!

All the best

Michael