Jump to content

Narrowband

Top 10 things to make with a 3D printer


Ags

Recommended Posts

1 hour ago, Elp said:

I used to use Fusion to design as it was brilliant, Autodesk however have stopped the hobbyist licensing they used to permit.

Fusion 360 is still free for personal use - you just have a restriction on how many projects you can have in edit mode at one time - but you can have many more in 'read-only' mode, and can swap between them all very easily, so not that much of a restriction... 

And the paid-for version is more expensive than solidworks, so it shouldn't be dismissed as 'free software'. (Mind you I do have a soft spot for free tinkercad from when I was first starting out...) 

I do print things that I could buy - as long as it is appropriate in terms of load-bearing and accuracy. 

  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I modelled a Samyang 135 and built a mount around it which also houses a focus motor. It borrows from existing designs I found, but I heavily modified it. I made a similar thing for a WO SpaceCat 51 (now sold). Those two items alone saved me more than the cost of the printer. 

I’ve also made Bahtinov masks, replacement alt/Az adjustment knobs for my EQM35 and EQ6R, a carry handle for my 102mm refractor, polar scope adapter, polar scope illuminator … and much more besides.  Yesterday I printed two brackets to securely attach mini PCs to my mounts for wireless remote imaging. 

Have a look on Thingiverse - there’s a lot of Astro stuff there freely available.

376C0D47-A672-4716-AAB9-D20982CC8331.jpeg

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

11 hours ago, Elp said:

I find it fulfilling overcoming an issue by making something myself.

Agree, one of the main reasons I like this, the designing maybe more than the printing , which can have some frustrating issues from time to time, but its that feeling you get ehrn you have designed something from scratch and then hold it in your hand, moving parts and all.

Steve

Link to comment
Share on other sites

yup. when i started astro last year, it was also an excuse to start some new 3d printed projects.

first was to design and build a focuser for my skymax, then later modify and print a 135mm focuser design from internet.

As has been said before - those alone (3d printed versions) sell for 150 quid - so it pretty much pays for itself after one print (and a rare of example where it IS worth printing something you can buy - since it's just a 3d print being sold)

 

  • Like 3
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I just figured out the way to "3d" print - circuit boards :D

Well, not really, but it did occur to me to use filament to create etching mask on PCB - and quick search online showed that it is really not feasible as filament won't stick well enough to PCB and etching usually fails.

However - if we combine two things - we can still get decent 3d printed circuit boards.

Most basic masking method - using black permanent marker to trace out leads on PCB prior to etching - like in this video:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VenCNTvXqFc

and then we add a bit of this:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OmgT__nU9po

It's just 3d printed magic marker holder that attaches next to hot end :D. In "drawing" mode - we don't heat the bed nor heat up the hot end - magic marker will be lower than hot end which we deal with z-offset.

Then it is just matter of "3d printing" our PCB traces on board

  • Thanks 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 minute ago, Alien 13 said:

Regarding Astro project or indeed any semi mechanical part whats the best filament to use? bear in mind I am using a magnetic bed so stuck with PLA..

Alan

As long as there are no requirements for high temperature resistance - it seems that PLA is really the best and easiest to work with.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 minute ago, vlaiv said:

As long as there are no requirements for high temperature resistance - it seems that PLA is really the best and easiest to work with.

I agree its lovely stuff, was wondering though about PLA plus or the carbon fiber loaded PLA and from my limited use it seems not all PLA reels are created equal..

Alan 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

42 minutes ago, vlaiv said:

I just figured out the way to "3d" print - circuit boards :D

Well, not really, but it did occur to me to use filament to create etching mask on PCB - and quick search online showed that it is really not feasible as filament won't stick well enough to PCB and etching usually fails.

However - if we combine two things - we can still get decent 3d printed circuit boards.

Most basic masking method - using black permanent marker to trace out leads on PCB prior to etching - like in this video:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VenCNTvXqFc

and then we add a bit of this:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OmgT__nU9po

It's just 3d printed magic marker holder that attaches next to hot end :D. In "drawing" mode - we don't heat the bed nor heat up the hot end - magic marker will be lower than hot end which we deal with z-offset.

Then it is just matter of "3d printing" our PCB traces on board

Thanks, was thinking along similar lines, it would also be easy to create a PCB drilling template and stencils for other stuff too..

Alan

P.S. Just had a thought, I have a couple of lasers in the 80-200mW range, I am sure they could burn through the right sort of etch resist 🙂 Or better still a UV low power laser with a UV sensitized board.

Edited by Alien 13
  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, Alien 13 said:

Regarding Astro project or indeed any semi mechanical part whats the best filament to use? bear in mind I am using a magnetic bed so stuck with PLA..

Alan

For anything needing strength Abs is your best bet but can be a pain. 

I need to get the bed UpTo 110 and big parts have a habit of warping. 

Its also easier to finish if you need to sand a bit off after to get a snug fit. 

Dave

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I find ABS is very good for a lot of my printing but no one filament is best for everything. Not all printers work with ABS though. I use Simplify3D. Not cheap  but made a huge difference to my results compared to the free software. 

A useful guide here.

https://3dinsider.com/pros-and-cons-3d-printing-filaments/

Printed with ABS.

0E90C610-35E7-46EF-8F37-5774A831690D.jpeg

Edited by johninderby
  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

21 hours ago, adyj1 said:

Fusion 360 is still free for personal use

I don't have a 3D printer (yet - and this thread is telling me I don't need yet another time-consuming hobby!!!) but I have designed a few things (custom project boxes) for printing in the local 3D print shop. They charge me €50 a go though, so I don't do it often 😲. At that price, printing my own would pay for itself in a few weeks if I don't charge for my time.

I use Fusion 360, because I had been using Eagle CAD for circuit boards for a few years before AutoCAD bought it and integrated it with Fusion 360. The two work well together - you can render a 3D model of your board layout and insert it into the box design.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

2 hours ago, Alien 13 said:

Regarding Astro project or indeed any semi mechanical part whats the best filament to use? bear in mind I am using a magnetic bed so stuck with PLA..

Alan

I think probably ABS would be best for most astro projects but in my early days of printing I really struggled with ABS as it has a real tendency to warp and so the corners of your print curl up (quite dramatically sometimes, and you end up with a  base that is nowhere near flat.
Now I have a better printer and an enclosure (enclosure really helps as I can regulate the temperature inside the enclosure and generally run at 30 degrees so the part cools much more slowly, also it eliminates any cooling draughts) I can now print ABS without so many issues but because of my early bad experiences with ABS I started using PETG which is also very strong, slightly more flexible than PLA and much more UV resistant (not that I suppose that matters so much unless you are into solar stuff) I tend to print with PETG. Its cheap to buy, prints really well, adheres to print surface really well without any glues or hairspray and the like, so I can recommend PETG, and the one I use most is eSun from Amazon. Normally is around £19 for 1Kg but they often have price reductions and last year bought several Kgs as it was down to less than £13 per Kg.

Steve.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

18 minutes ago, vlaiv said:

I'm a bit confused with terminology.

What does the strength mean as mechanical property?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ycGDR752fT0

PLA is strongest, stiffest but also the most brittle compared to ASA and PETG

 

Maybe durability may of been a better choice of words. 

But I've found abs to be best for usable parts.

When printing any part you wouldn't rely on the bond between layers.

Taking the parts tested In the video you would print them on there side then they would probably all take my weight.

 

 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

49 minutes ago, dnl said:

For anything needing strength Abs is your best bet but can be a pain. 

I need to get the bed UpTo 110 and big parts have a habit of warping. 

Its also easier to finish if you need to sand a bit off after to get a snug fit. 

Dave

Problem is that magnetic beds can only realy go up to 60 degrees before you degrade the magnetism..

Alan

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

13 minutes ago, vlaiv said:

Anyone tried ASA as ABS replacement?

It is supposedly better and does not give of nasty fumes when printed

Not yet, I do intend to try it as it has some good reviews, it does come at a cost though as generally retails around £30 for a Kg as opposed to £20 for ABS or PETG.

Steve

Link to comment
Share on other sites

11 minutes ago, Alien 13 said:

Its an Ender 3 pro..

Alan

I also have a magnetic bed on my Original Prusa, and tbh I had never thought of issues with the magnets but yes you are right, in theory it will affect them I guess.
I have printed with ABS and used 110C bed temp but not often and usually only go to 85 C for PETG and never had an issue with loss of magnetism (well if it has reduced it is still more than enough to hold the build plate).
 

Steve

Edited by teoria_del_big_bang
  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I've had an Ender 3 for a number of years now. Usual mods inc Micro Swiss Hot End, updated main board. I've used PLA and PETG (can be stringy) but pretty much always PLA Plus now, either Sunlu or Esun. All modelled with Tinkercad, sliced with Cura and managed with Octoprint. Tinkercad can be frustrating to use with its simplicity but there's always a way around its limitations and a way to do everything I've ever needed. For bracketery and electronics enclosures it's a doddle.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue. By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.