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Everything posted by Dave_D

  1. i always thought that the truss fixings would be the stumbling block of this build... oh so not true £4.50 a piece as opposed to who-knows-what-with-standard-astro-500%-markup truss connectors. a wee bit of fettling on these aluminium go-pro butterfly diving connectors and all is good in the world. can't use the original handles to tighten them up but hey, that's what 3D printers are for just need to design and print conical handles now...
  2. nothing astro, but then again, i never do. i got the usual bottle of southern comfort (i don't drink) biscuits/chocolates (i'm on a diet) and this year, David Beckham deodorant (never needed to use the stuff) my family really hate me ???
  3. i was building a piezo mount on my anet but it just wouldnt print the parts well enough. time to retry it on the ender can't see why. i modelled these in OpenSCAD. mostly parametric, i can change the focal length variable and all strut lengths etc are automatically calculated. not 3D printing related but OpenSCAD is as powerful as any once you understand how to code it.
  4. this bearing is going to work really well... supposed to have a load capacity of 200kg. bit of overkill but y'know... kids had fun spinning me round on it that's my girl singing to youtube btw...
  5. personally, yes because these 8-bit controllers and their displays feel really clunky now. soon as i get my duetwifi into the machine the better
  6. hmmm... not sure if this bearing is big enough...
  7. yeah. i've got it running with octoprint at the moment but i'm seriously considering replacing the existing mobo with my duetwifi. i've cultivated a bit of a dislike for 8 bit controllers now i've been corrupted with 32bit printer boards and esp32 microcontrollers
  8. 0.4mm and the stl from here https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2808258
  9. amazon. if you can, get one sold by Comgrow i've heard that there are copies being sold that have 3D printed parts like the power supply cover, but this is the one i got and it's a genuine Ender3 Pro (https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B07GYXP9ZL/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1), from what i've heard, Comgrow have very good support. so far i'm really impressed. only done 1 print yet but this would have made my AM8 curl it's toes up. that's a 1p coin it's stood on
  10. i caught the postman trying to shove this through my letterbox today so far it works WAY better than my anet AM8
  11. i got the 1000mm x 750mm screw driven because it fits perfectly into my balcony alcove. i *would* have gone for the 1500mm x 1500mm if i had space. the screw driven is definitely better than the belt version. also, i went for a proper spindle as the dewalt and makita trim routers ooznest supplies, although quite functional, are hella loud in use.
  12. todays progress... the base is all cut and ready to paint. just deciding on a 16 inch lazy susan... anyone had experience of these? https://www.amazon.co.uk/Unilocks-Aluminum-Turntable-Revolving-turntable/dp/B00BHSPAJU/ref=sr_1_50?rps=1&ie=UTF8&qid=1544281198&sr=8-50&keywords=lazy+susan&refinements=p_76%3A419158031 or recommend a better one? and just as a shameless bit of plugging, if anyone is planning to get a CNC router, i can honestly say this Ooznest Workbee is fantastic.
  13. i really hate the camera in my tablet ? added carrying handles, flip out rear panel (not shown as it was being painted) for mirror access and 50mm x 3.5mm steel brackets fitted through the mirror box to mount the truss pole connections, bolted with 2 M6 bolts each bracket and big enough to spread the load across the box. need to dremel 10mm off the 6 handled bolts holding the runners on as the middle bolts currently interfere with the mirror cell just need to make the mirror retention clips and waiting for the smooth edging strips to arrive for the runners having trouble finding suitable springs for the cell though... anyone got any suggestions?
  14. yeah i was considering those, but there's practically no weight on the hinges as they only need to hold the rear panel
  15. been pondering the bearings... i've allowed 10mm between the rocker arms and the base to fit something like a formica edging and teflon blocks to the runners i've got these 2 great big lumps of teflon from where i used to work... need to find someone with a band saw to cut 2 disks off about 10-12 mm thick which hopefully, i can machine down to the required thickness with a fly cutting bit on my CNC. never tried machining plastics though.
  16. i think i made a bit of a gaff with the position of the 3 handled bolts... the rearmost one could really do with being 2 or 3 inches higher to give a bit more stablility... tis not a problem though.
  17. almost ready to paint the mirror box just need to machine an inset into the rear panel so the hinges can extend fully
  18. I look like Bane when i've got my respirator on
  19. for the truss poles and attachments, i've decided to go with these they're ball butterfly clamps in aluminium and i can get them for £4.50 each. for the balls, my local wood supplier has 25mm diameter drawer handles in nickel plated steel that will screw into a plug in the end of the truss poles for £4 for 2 so a hell of a lot cheaper (similar to this but a much better finish)
  20. it's moisture resistant medite exterior MDF and supposed to be far tougher and more dimensionally stable than standard MDF... cost me 60 quid or so for a 8' x 4' sheet. no point skimping and have the scope fall apart because of this lousy climate
  21. Mirror cell fits juuuuuust nice... just remembered i have to hinge the bottom of the mirror box, otherwise the mirror will be getting a life sentence lololol
  22. I'd love to get my grubby little paws on a conical primary...
  23. Making steady progress, and yeah, had to add the text to the front of the mirror box and with a 14" mirror, it better HAD be full of stars lol It's a bit dark cause the camera on my tablet is rubbish and Criske, this is the machine. An Ooznest 1000x750mm Workbee. using a proper spindle instead of a trim router cause trim routers are noisy as hell... I've also removed the T-slot bed i added (and damn expensive too ? ) and used a piece of MDF which i can skim easily as i was having trouble levelling the T-spot accurately enough
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