Len1257

I reached out to Starfield and received an email back from Steve Mallia. I doubt that he would object to me passing part of the reply on. I personally moved in a different direction so have no experience with this item. Regards Len

Only just up the road from my paternal families farm! Spent a few childhood holidays in the area! Many thanks for the info. Len

looks to be a nice clear view. Campsite info?

The STL is all I needed but not difficult to find on Thingyverse. Thanks Len.

Pierre, do you have a link for the ring on Thingiverse please? I'm confused which one it might be. Thanks Len

Very sad news indeed. Always looked forward to his posts and comments. Condolences to his family.

Am I missing something here? Number of points: Why not turn it over 180degrees to avoid the supports? The angle of the dovetail will print OK without supports. Might need smoothing with a sanding stick but other wise it will be fine. Why not turn it over 90degrees and print it on its back side. Then you don't need supports and should come out clean anyway. The advantage here is the layers are in their strongest position for when in use.

Yet another off the cuff slap in the face for anyone who just gets a mini PC and loads it up with NINA and its associated apps and then just enjoys the capabilities of it working without any effort at all, night after night (those that we get). It really is simple. If you wish to follow one brand of equipment to the exclusion of all others then a closed solution might suit. However I consider such a blinkered approach shortsighted.

Another vote for NINA. Just work through your issues one at a time. Use the simulator functions to get familiar with the options before wasting imaging time. Never ever had an issue with NINA , it just works. Ensure you set the working hours on the PC to suite your imaging time and adjust the power scheme and update policies to prevent heartache in the night! Tying yourself to ZWO products would be very shortsighted especially with the cheaper cameras now coming from China. I do use ZWO components and they work fine but I do see the advantage of not being limited to just one make......

You need to reach out to Chaz2b for the 2" version. The 1.25" is apparently on Thingiverse. If you aren't designing your own stuff then Tinkercad is as easy as it gets.

I've had right angle joints fail when stressed so now always try and incorporate some fillets or side angle pieces if I can. Can be underneath of course. Also use Cura Mesh facility to increase infill rate at joint works well.

My reference to a steady was meant as a nudge to get the free end of the bar supported. If for any reason the cutting tool dug in then that bar could be out of that chuck before you could blink. While I'm at it, spinning the bar between centres also a no-go without some sort of drive dog on the bar. If it stalls under cutting then the bar and drive centre burn. Not good. Just hints...................

If I was chucking a lump like that to machine the end I would have used a steady of some sort on the bar free end. I regularly counter-bore with boring bars held directly in the tool post and never get vibration so that might have been a factor? I have been using the Glanz bars successfully. This sort of bar https://www.chronos.ltd.uk/product/glanze-s12-k-pwunr-06-boring-tool-with-wnmg-06-insert/

I've used the Switchcraft versions without a problem. They do need to be inserted all the way to get a connection but then they are solid. https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/dc-power-connectors/7051519 Not cheap but then quality rarely is. The so called aviation connector terminals are solder resistant and require scraping to get down to the base metal. Weird having solder tags that resist solder. Had from various sources always the same.

The TLS2591 doesn't need to be exposed to air anyway so use a lens facing the sky, siliconed to an enclosure that is sealed closed. Similar for the MLX90614 but of course mounted without a lens. The BME280 will fail if any moisture reaches the sensor well before corrosion becomes an issue. Folk have used goretex or other breathable but waterproof material behind breather vents to exclude moisture. The recommendation to use an open weather enclosure is flawed for the UK. I 3D printed my enclosures but plenty of weather sealed boxes are available from the likes of RS, Rapid and Farnell.