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Alien 13

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About Alien 13

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    White Dwarf
  • Birthday 24/01/55

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    Leicester UK

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  1. If the cover is glass then a lens/sensor pen but its should still be fine for guiding. Alan
  2. The position wont make the slightest difference and will alter throughout the year but if you want to change it then add some spacers (the skywatcher ones used to come with 3 or 4 thin washers), the spacer/washers can me made from cut up coke cans or plastic lids etc. Alan P.S. the spacer goes over the threaded part of the Polarscope.
  3. Lenses get expensive in the 400 mm range, I did look at one of these a while ago for grab and go lunar Alan
  4. Nice images, I too like my 70-200 f/4 L for astro work its a much underrated lens. Alan
  5. Teleconvertors can be a bit fussy with lens some lens/camera combinations, the Kenko I have seems to work with all my lenses but its best to check on the manufacturers website, there is a compatibility chart listed on the Kenko one dont know about Nikon. Alan
  6. If it cant be fixed by lining up the RGB peaks in DSS then I dont know what else can be done apart from fitting the original filters back inside the cameras sensor... Alan
  7. Hi and welcome to SGL. I cant be specific about lenses because I am a Canon user but you are correct in thinking you will need about 400 mm fl, I have used my 70-200 mm f/4 L lens with a Kenko X2 teleconvertor with pretty good results on Lunar and the camera even manages to auto-focus even though the combination is at f/8. I have used the above combination on a tripod with a ball head but I tilt it by 90 degrees so the camera is effectively in portrait mode but far more stable, my lens does have a tripod foot which helps with balancing. I would advise you to get some practice in by taking lots of shots of the moon (same relative size as the sun) with your intended kit. The biggest problem will be getting the exposures correct, the Sun just prior to the eclipse and just after will require a proper solar filter fitted to the lens, at totality the filter will probably block any view of the corona so would need to be removed but there is always a danger in not putting it back on in time as totality starts to end. If it where me I would opt for a wide field time-lapse to capture the event which is very special. Alan
  8. Very nice work, its funny that someone mentioned "zoom" because that is the only bit of the puzzle missing on my DSLR/Lens remote shooter which I use over wifi for both wildlife and astro shots. The solution you have does look like it would be equally happy on the zoom ring (focus is taken care of with remote live view and micro-stepping with the DSLR) so I might do some more investigation. Alan
  9. I use the adjustments in DSS to the max, this is a personal view but to me I get much better images saving the resultant file with all adjustments applied than I get with PS. Alan
  10. I always let DSS save a master tiff file with 32 bit and do a manual 16 bit one also. Alan
  11. The only thing I can think of is you might be running the 32 bit version of PS rather than the 64 bit, I am assuming you are also using win 10. Alan
  12. I used to find that Stellarium was always about 12 mins different to every other app when looking for Polaris hour angle for polar alignment never trusted it since. Alan
  13. Not sure if its feasible but it might be worth investigating eye/wi fi SD cards for your camera, my own camera is a WiFi model and allows me to use live view and complete camera control from indoors with either a lappy running EOS utils or a phone/tablet with Canon camera connect. Alan
  14. A few more from me. Favorite mount: EQ3 with single axis drive. Favorite accessory: Camera ball head. Favorite software: Photoshop with PIPP a close second. Favorite technology: DSLR with WiFi control and remote viewing. Favorite computer manufacturer: Alienware. Alan
  15. I have used most, PSP and Affinity Photo are good for the price but they are no Photoshop not even close. Alan